brakes dragging

gixxer750

2jzget comingsoon!
Mar 30, 2005
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Mississippi
ok....

My brakes drag occasionally.....to the point where on the interstate, my car will be running 0 vaccume up to 2 psi just to maintain a speed of 70mph. It makes my car run hot. they will do this sometimes after I hit the brakes, and then after a while, it will just go away. I have to get this fixed, as my rotors are turning blue.....lol Its only the front two sticking, as the rear wheels are not getting warm like the fronts are.

Here is what I have replaced.
Stock lines are now SS braided goodridge lines
Front Calipers are rebuilt about 3k miles ago.
New master cylinder.
All brake hard lines detached and blown out with 90 psi of compressed air.
New pads on all four corners
New dot 4 fluid in everything.

What is the deal? There shouldn't be anything left to cause a problem!!!!
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Failed ABS controller? I've heard of this happening. Try pulling your ABS fuse, and see if the brakes quit sticking or locking up the fronts.

If so, you might need to change out the ABS computer or control solenoid. Or perhaps you have a bad sensor in the system? IS your ABS light on?
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
AH! My opinion is: you replaced the master cylinder, in my experience with that is to make sure youve adjusted the shaft for the master cylinder correctly. If its to long, brakes will drag and cause failure of pads and warping of rotors. If its not long enough you wont have enough pressure in the lines to apply the brakes I.E. "brake pumping". The first thing I would check is that because that is honestly what it sounds like is going on. I had this problem with our van. Replaced a ton of stuff.... ended up the friggin master cylinder was out of adjustment. If its too long it blocks off the ports and wont let the fluid flow back in.
Second I would check for a collapsed line. The lines can collapse inside.. where you can't see them. So check to see if they bleed evenly. If one seems to have less pressure when bleeding it could be blocked in the line somewhere.
Word of advice. When you do change major parts of the brake system make sure to use new brake fluid. Not used. I've seen people do this and end up eating the seals out of new calipers and master cylinders. Not saying you dont.. just saying .
 

gixxer750

2jzget comingsoon!
Mar 30, 2005
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gixxer750 said:
ok....
Stock lines are now SS braided goodridge lines

New master cylinder.

New dot 4 fluid in everything.

As you see, I have replaced the fluid. The brake hoses are brand new goodridge lines. Also, I didn't say it in my post, but I adjusted the pedal rod yesterday, with no change at all..... When I bled the brakes, they did bleed evenly.


The ABS light is not on, and it does work. I think I'm gonna try swapping out the ABS block with my other car.
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Ohio
Even if the ABS light is not on, disable the ABS in some way. For me it was dragging the front right brake and causing plumes of smoke to appear from the wheel well, and still no ABS light came on. I would disable it and test it to see if thats whats doing it.
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Just pull your ABS fuse. Nothing more to disable the system. The brakes will still work, but the valve block will have no power.

If that fixes it, either a computer that controlls your ABS is fried, or the valve is failed. (Like I said, I've seen a few older ones fail, but it's not common, just has happened.)
 

gixxer750

2jzget comingsoon!
Mar 30, 2005
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that did not fix it.....it still drags sometimes, and at times it is worse than other times. I can park my car on a 10 degree grade and still it will not roll when they are at the worst. A minute ago I went out to test it, and had to run 3 psi to maintain 55 mph
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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Maybe a pinched hardline? Or the front proportioning valve on the DS fender. I'd remove that and clean it. Also make sure the rotor is true.
Good luck man.
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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I figured "rebuilt caliper about 3K miles ago" would have covered that.
But I suppose new pistons, boots and seals doesn't mean a new slider was used...
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
DOH "reading" is a good thing!

I skimmed it what seems like ages ago!

Guess from here it's just process of elimination until he finds it!
(horrible thought on ours cars as parts are so exe)
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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Tampa
I had something similar and had to replace the Master Cylinder twice. I had a bad master cylinder and replaced it with a rebuilt one. Turned out that the 1st rebuilt one was bad and caused my wheels/tires to drag... I had to fight with the guys at Autozone, to simply replace it. They did not agree it was the problem, but apologized when I brought back the 1st rebuilt one, in my Supra (with no wheels draggin'). Good luck!!
 

gixxer750

2jzget comingsoon!
Mar 30, 2005
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Mississippi
i'm thinking the piston is sticking in my master cylinder that I got from work. I just ordered a new one today, I'm gonna try that.