Boss Jr. Oil Return Line Issue

[turbotoy]

Hello to all who remember me from years ago on another then popular forum and the SOGI list. I recent picked up this MINT 89T (61k, 100% original) and am swapping in my built longblock from my 87T. I'm also going from a SP63 to a Boss Jr. 57 trim to obtain a more street-friendly powerband.

That said, has anyone else run into an issue with the oil return line kinking on a Boss Jr. Turbo? No matter what, there is no way to prevent the line from kinking. I can't rotate the turbo center section any more without the coolant feed fitting touching the heat shield on the manifold. I have a hunch that the return line was designed for the Boss Sr. turbos which have a spacer, therefore the line is too long. However, even if the line were shorter, I'm not sure it would work without kinking. The coolant feed line is also much too long, but at least it will function and should just be a cosmetic issue.

I may go to the setup I had on the SP63 shown in the attachment, which was just a braided SS line on barb fittings with hose clamps. This gets rid of a lot of the rigid fitting length on each end. More ghetto than I would really like and a (small) part of the reason for me going with a "bolt on" kit, but oh well. It seemed to work fine before. Other than that, the turbo looks great and I think will give me exactly what I'm looking for.

I would appreciate any insight.

 

[bhmsupra]

Maybe shoot Jack a note. He, or his staff are always very helpfull. I am interested in what is resolved as this is the exact turbo on my future plans.

 

[turbotoy]

Maybe shoot Jack a note. He, or his staff are always very helpfull. I am interested in what is resolved as this is the exact turbo on my future plans.

Yeah, message was sent to Jack. I know he's sold several of these units so far, so I figured someone here may have run into this issue.

I'll be sure to share the resolution, and dyno numbers once I have them.

 

[Jack]

The lines are all the same length...the only thing I can think of that may be the issue is the flanges. We currently use our flanges and use 1/2"npt. If the threads are not tapped deep enough that can add an easy 1/4 to 1/2 extra line length. I will send a new return line with flanges on monday and have UPS pick up your current one.
Greg taps a hundred or so flanges at a time so if one didn't get tapped to the correct depth...it's possible.
We'll get you taken care of asap.

 

[turbotoy]

First, I certainly appreciate the very prompt reply Jeff.

On the block side, the end of the male NPT fitting is only ~1/8" from the flange surface, so there's not much to be gained there.

On the turbo side, there is some more that can be gained, but the tap depth certainly looks sufficient. I attached several more pictures to hopefully aid the diagnosis. I probably need to lose about 1/2", and I'm not sure that's going to happen if the hose length remained the same.

 

[frontierguy25]

If you look at my build thread you will see pictures of the return line that I used. I took off the stainless hose and just used the end fittings and replaced them with a 45* -10 fitting on the turbo side and a -10 barb fitting on the block and it works perfectly now. I'll see if I can find the pic for you. It works much better and no kink. Sorry this is the only pic that I got.

 

[turbotoy]

If you look at my build thread you will see pictures of the return line that I used. I took off the stainless hose and just used the end fittings and replaced them with a 45* -10 fitting on the turbo side and a -10 barb fitting on the block and it works perfectly now. I'll see if I can find the pic for you. It works much better and no kink. Sorry this is the only pic that I got.

Thanks for the info! After looking through my box of miscellaneous -AN fittings, I already have everything I need to do exactly what you did with a 45' -10 fitting. I really don't like the barb fitting and hose clamp, but there's no pressure there so there's really nothing wrong with it.

We'll see how the replacement hose Jeff sends out works, but I have a backup plan.

 

[IJ.]

And this thread is a perfect example of how to approach and resolve an issue well done guys!

 

[Jack]

Almost perfect...It's Jack not Jeff damnit...but I will get the new return line out regardless

 

[Jack]

We have shipped tons of BOSS turbo's and we do not want ANY issues when installing. If there is a prob we will get it taken care of....we support or products...because they are that good

 

[crisp]

Fantastic pictures illustrating your issue, AND the support shots later and from others! This is GREAT to see after I JUST installed MY 61GT this past three days!:biglaugh:


Really nice looking build there, too!



I ended up buying a set of CROWS FEET (SAE - DOH@#$! HA!) open end wrenches to get to the fittings with the motor and everything IN the car! It was STILL tricky!



-crisp

 

[turbotoy]

Whoops, sorry Jack, I don't know where the heck that screw up came from. Too much time wrenching on the car I guess.

This install is a piece of cake compared to figuring out how to get that SP63 bolted on years ago

This was the cleanest original condition MK3 I've ever laid eyes on, in exactly the spec I wanted (black, hardtop, 5 speed, turbo, cloth interior), so I couldn't pass it up. Only the tires and fluids had been changed - EVERYTHING else was 100% original. Hasn't seen rain in 10+ years. It looks like it rolled off the showroom underneath.

I'm trying to keep the original refinement of the car and 100% reliability in all the modifications. After 10+ years of playing with 7Ms I've come to realize that once you go past ~18 psi and shoot for beyond 450 RWHP, the modifications get out of control. That said, the block that's going in it has JE pistons, polished/stress relieved rods, balanced, head is ported, etc....

Going to just be running a Lexus AFM/550s/MKIV fuel pump, S-AFR, and Greddy IC kit, so it will be interesting to see what this turbo will do.

 

[Poodles]

Only comment I'll make is that I thought you didn't use hose clamps on barb fittings?

 

[turbotoy]

Only comment I'll make is that I thought you didn't use hose clamps on barb fittings?

What other type of clamp would you use with a barb fitting?


Looks like I'll need to trim about 1.5" from the front of the turbine heat shield in order to clear both the water and oil feed lines. Also note that the turbine housing does not have the bosses for the stay at the top and the most outboard heat shield fastener. Given the much greater coefficient of thermal expansion of the stainless steel housing compared to cast iron, eliminating the stay may not be a bad idea.

I'm also going to need to come up with a mounting bracket for the oil dip stick.

 

[frontierguy25]

You shouldn't have to cut away any of the heat sheilds. Look at my build thread and you will see I didn't touch mine. I'm going to actually powder coat mine as well.

the dipstick you can bend it just enough to have the tap bolt up to the exhaust housing or just bolt it to the Flange for the stock 02 sensor and be fine. That is the way I have mine. Works fine for years.

Just take your time and you will be fine.

 

[frontierguy25]

Only comment I'll make is that I thought you didn't use hose clamps on barb fittings?

You don't have to but I did because I didn't want to take the chance of it moving at all.

Turbotoy if you want to call me or me call you that's fine with me. PM me your number or I can send you mine.

 

[jdub]

You shouldn't have to cut away any of the heat sheilds. Look at my build thread and you will see I didn't touch mine. I'm going to actually powder coat mine as well.

Powder coat on a heat shield is not a good idea. Ceramic is what you want to do.

 

[Toy-Rific]

May be one of the problems with the line is that I don't have the heat shields that go on the manifold to re check the fitment issue of the lines.
Thanks Jack for the way you passed the buck to me for not tapping the holes deep enough and not that you made the lines too long.
Have been trying to get jack to change over to a soft or very flexible line for the return but be is just a stubborn Irishman.
I do have a simple solution for the dip stick but Jack is not going along with me on this one.

 

[Jack]

May be one of the problems with the line is that I don't have the heat shields that go on the manifold to re check the fitment issue of the lines.
Thanks Jack for the way you passed the buck to me for not tapping the holes deep enough and not that you made the lines too long.
Have been trying to get jack to change over to a soft or very flexible line for the return but be is just a stubborn Irishman.
I do have a simple solution for the dip stick but Jack is not going along with me on this one.

Keep lipping off and I'll take your walker away old timer...I'm not irish...Swedish & Norwegan...Come from a Larson & Johnson

 

[funky_monkey58]

Do we need to separate you two?