Firstly Let me apologize for my noobish tone you will found throughout this post. I got my car back two days ago and have just started work on it for the first time after scouring these forums for the past year or so.
Ok, so Ive just gotten my engine back from being rebuilt after spinning a rod bearing.This build was done by my mechanic after a period spanning 10 months
current engine mods
-mgh +arp studs/bolts
-heat treated balanced crank
-adjustable cam gears
-honed /bored out slightly as the cylinders walls where scratched and the forgies are slightly bigger
-forged pistons (not show how may thou over but I know they are bigger then stock)
-TRD cams (again not sure what kind just know they are rare as hell, cost $1800 and bigger than stock)
put in a new fuel tank, lsd diff , new brakes
ecu from a 89 automatic
The auto tranny is gone , i have to manually select L and 2 as the box doesnt select these anymore. When I am driving I always start in P or N and then pull away in L as the auto box will select 3rd gear if I put it into drive and then idle low and stall.
Anyway just giving you guys a history as this may better help you answer the question. And yes , as funds allow I plan to go R154 and a standalone /piggyback.
On to my question , my car idles very low in Park(neutral) and extremely low in L and Reverse , so much so that if i dont give it some revs it will die.
My mechanic says this is because of the bigger cams and pistons and I will therefore need a proper tune with a stand alone engine management system before it will idle right without stalling.
Would bigger cams + pistons cause a low idle . I know bigger cams cause a lumpier idle , but lower , to the point of the car stalling?I know this may be a stupid question because I haven't listed the specs of the cams/pistons but thought id try anyway...
I will purchase a stand alone , but I wanted to know if what my mechanic was saying is right and if so , what part of the stand alone will fix the low idle problem( the controlling of A.F ratio , timing etc? ) , ie , would it be possible to maybe fix the problem with a SAFC or just a cheap piggyback while I get the funds together for a proper standalone?
Appreciate any responses
Ok, so Ive just gotten my engine back from being rebuilt after spinning a rod bearing.This build was done by my mechanic after a period spanning 10 months
current engine mods
-mgh +arp studs/bolts
-heat treated balanced crank
-adjustable cam gears
-honed /bored out slightly as the cylinders walls where scratched and the forgies are slightly bigger
-forged pistons (not show how may thou over but I know they are bigger then stock)
-TRD cams (again not sure what kind just know they are rare as hell, cost $1800 and bigger than stock)
put in a new fuel tank, lsd diff , new brakes
ecu from a 89 automatic
The auto tranny is gone , i have to manually select L and 2 as the box doesnt select these anymore. When I am driving I always start in P or N and then pull away in L as the auto box will select 3rd gear if I put it into drive and then idle low and stall.
Anyway just giving you guys a history as this may better help you answer the question. And yes , as funds allow I plan to go R154 and a standalone /piggyback.
On to my question , my car idles very low in Park(neutral) and extremely low in L and Reverse , so much so that if i dont give it some revs it will die.
My mechanic says this is because of the bigger cams and pistons and I will therefore need a proper tune with a stand alone engine management system before it will idle right without stalling.
Would bigger cams + pistons cause a low idle . I know bigger cams cause a lumpier idle , but lower , to the point of the car stalling?I know this may be a stupid question because I haven't listed the specs of the cams/pistons but thought id try anyway...
I will purchase a stand alone , but I wanted to know if what my mechanic was saying is right and if so , what part of the stand alone will fix the low idle problem( the controlling of A.F ratio , timing etc? ) , ie , would it be possible to maybe fix the problem with a SAFC or just a cheap piggyback while I get the funds together for a proper standalone?
Appreciate any responses
