BHG gone?

NeatOman

Never know enough!
Oct 5, 2006
233
0
0
Addison, IL
OK, im sure the head is cracked now.. but i just did the HG and it was throwing out white smoke had a bunch load of pressure in the cooling system, surged after i turned it off and had to refill the antifreeze a lot. Now! after driving it about 4 time its gone! I never have to put Antifreeze in it now and the heater is always on:evil2:.

The old HG was only slightly bent in the far back water channel on cyl 6 because the numb nut before seized up 11 of the 14 studs, i used stock HG and copper spray, and put the bolts down to 70lbs with 4 passes. I tapped and dyed then ran out the oil i used to tap and dye with the studs to get out as much oil as i could.

1) should i do one more pass now that the car has no BHG and crack it some more (im guessing its cracked, i used uv dye and saw no cracks)

2) just save my time and energy to rebuild the hole thing later with a MHG, and ride this out
 

namkiii

New Member
Nov 3, 2006
149
0
0
midlothian tx
NeatOman said:
OK, im sure the head is cracked now.. but i just did the HG and it was throwing out white smoke had a bunch load of pressure in the cooling system, surged after i turned it off and had to refill the antifreeze a lot. Now! after driving it about 4 time its gone! I never have to put Antifreeze in it now and the heater is always on:evil2:.

The old HG was only slightly bent in the far back water channel on cyl 6 because the numb nut before seized up 11 of the 14 studs, i used stock HG and copper spray, and put the bolts down to 70lbs with 4 passes. I tapped and dyed then ran out the oil i used to tap and dye with the studs to get out as much oil as i could.

1) should i do one more pass now that the car has no BHG and crack it some more (im guessing its cracked, i used uv dye and saw no cracks)

2) just save my time and energy to rebuild the hole thing later with a MHG, and ride this out



wait
 

boost fiend

Banned
Jul 24, 2005
852
0
0
Rockford, Il
do a compression test and a cooling system pressure test.

between those 2 test should give you an idea.

ya could even do a block test with the kit you can buy from napa.
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
1,310
0
0
40
Oregon
Agreed.
I'd take those bolts down to 72 as well, but that's just me, I'm sure 2 ft-lbs isn't going to make a difference.
What makes you think the head is cracked?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
You're using ARP studs? The torque spec is 81 ft/lbs using moly for lube....105 ft/lbs using 30W oil as lube.

You used a stock HG...a Toyota or aftermarket?

Want to confirm a couple of things:
- All the old HG was completely removed
- The HG lined up with the two pins on the front/rear of the block
- The head and block both were checked for flatness...was any machine work done at all?
- The top surface of the front plate where it mates with the block was even or slightly below the block deck.

Chris is right, it's rare for a head to crack...a little more common for a block though. Also the head can easily warp...unless it's perfectly flat, it will not seal.