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drumminforev
Guest
Which is best and why. I havent found any real answers. Also why would anyone choose a headgasket from a company that doesnt get thieir shit right and makes us grind a rivet off?
NO. i would not buy from that company.
This is an extremly broad question! All relative to your power goals.
If you going for say around 300-400 horses, and want a more forgiving head gasket, get a cometic. Even though cometics are known to hold much much more!
The HKS/Greddy head gaskets require a very very level and milled block and head and are much less forgiving. But if your really building up the engine, and are resurfacing the block and head, you may want to think about hks stopper or such.
Stocker is a no no though.
This is an extremly broad question! All relative to your power goals.
If you going for say around 300-400 horses, and want a more forgiving head gasket, get a cometic. Even though cometics are known to hold much much more!
The HKS/Greddy head gaskets require a very very level and milled block and head and are much less forgiving. But if your really building up the engine, and are resurfacing the block and head, you may want to think about hks stopper or such.
Stocker is a no no though.
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drumminforev
Guest
s383mmber1 said:
Well cometic is the company that everyone talks abuot grinding off this rivet...
My bad, my goal is 400whp, almost 12 sec flat...so whatever it takes to get there
Also has a big deal to do with how deep your pockets are! How much time you have to build up your engine?
If youve got the money, id say go with the HKS ect, and make sure you tell your machinist to do your block and head to a RA of 5 iirc or as close as he can get it!
Do a lot of reading through build threads and searchs!
If youve got the money, id say go with the HKS ect, and make sure you tell your machinist to do your block and head to a RA of 5 iirc or as close as he can get it!
Do a lot of reading through build threads and searchs!
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drumminforev
Guest
iirc means "if i remeber correctly"
And RA of 5 means Ruffnace average!
DO a search for "best headgasket" and start reading! ANd dont be afraid to ask to many questions!
And RA of 5 means Ruffnace average!
DO a search for "best headgasket" and start reading! ANd dont be afraid to ask to many questions!
We have had good experiences with a HKS mhg. Greddy is almost exactly the same thing.
Never tried Cometic because of the rivets and their lame "made to order" wait times. If they really are all "made to order", why not make them without the rivets, or even better, move the rivets so they actually work without needing to be removed.
Never tried Cometic because of the rivets and their lame "made to order" wait times. If they really are all "made to order", why not make them without the rivets, or even better, move the rivets so they actually work without needing to be removed.
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drumminforev
Guest
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drumminforev
Guest
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drumminforev
Guest
I been reading and why is there nothing that anyone can agree on. Some say 60ft some say 70 80 90 even 100ft pounds torqued the head gasket.
What is the PROPER torque to use and in how many 'steps'
Secondly, some say use copper sealer crap, some say brake cleaner, some say nothing. If hks doesnt says use nothing, then why do people insist on using all this crap?
What is the PROPER torque to use and in how many 'steps'
Secondly, some say use copper sealer crap, some say brake cleaner, some say nothing. If hks doesnt says use nothing, then why do people insist on using all this crap?
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drumminforev
Guest
Well then I guess thats not proper really. I mean in terms of safley torquing it, but not overtorqued so its gonna blow or warp the head/block
So sick of that question, there IS no arguing!
If you search you will find that the correct torque spec, is the one supplied with your hardware! In other words, get ARP's and RTFM! (read the directions)
You don't even need a search (it's a sticky) to know that you shouldn't use any sealant on a headgasket, unless it's been used before and been cleaned properly
If you search you will find that the correct torque spec, is the one supplied with your hardware! In other words, get ARP's and RTFM! (read the directions)
You don't even need a search (it's a sticky) to know that you shouldn't use any sealant on a headgasket, unless it's been used before and been cleaned properly
every headgasket mention above is good.
The failure is in the prep work.
If done incorrectly, your just wasting your money.
Get the head resurfaced, and the block.
Put on a metal headgasket (all are good), and tq it down to 80ftlbs.
Double check later on down the road to make sure they are still at 80.
Doesn't hurt to check it out.
The failure is in the prep work.
If done incorrectly, your just wasting your money.
Get the head resurfaced, and the block.
Put on a metal headgasket (all are good), and tq it down to 80ftlbs.
Double check later on down the road to make sure they are still at 80.
Doesn't hurt to check it out.
There is something about a retorque on ARP studs with a mhg that I don't like.
#1 ARP studs don't stretch like stock, and a mhg doesn't squish like a stock hg, so a retorque should not be needed.
#2 when you use a torque wrench to tighten a fastener, it takes more then the rated torque to get the fastener to start to turn. So if you have it torqued to 80ft/lbs, you might have to get to 85ft/lbs+ before it starts to tighten more. The way around that would be to loosen all of them first, then retorque, but I don't think that would be wise at all.
#1 ARP studs don't stretch like stock, and a mhg doesn't squish like a stock hg, so a retorque should not be needed.
#2 when you use a torque wrench to tighten a fastener, it takes more then the rated torque to get the fastener to start to turn. So if you have it torqued to 80ft/lbs, you might have to get to 85ft/lbs+ before it starts to tighten more. The way around that would be to loosen all of them first, then retorque, but I don't think that would be wise at all.
bigaaron said:
i believe it was IJ who said that even ARP's will stretch a tiny bit, but then never again, which is why you have to re-torque brand new head studs, but after that re-torque, you'll never have to do it again.
and you have to crack the nuts loose before you re-torque. i did it one nut at a time, and i never had any problems.
-shaeff
If you do the torque procedure correctly, and go in 4 or 5 steps up to 80ft/lbs, I really don't think a retorque is needed, and ARP says it's not needed. :dunno:
I did a cometic HG and arp studs and i torqued them to 80 ft lbs. Checked them ther other day, 500 miles later, and they are still at 80. Sometimes you dont need to bother it if it's not broken.
bigaaron said:
eh, put in a cometic MHG with brand new ARP's, and when i did my re-torque after 1000 miles, some of them were a bit more loose than others. i followed the directions to the letter. when re-torquing is as easy as it happens to be, i say: "why not?"
-shaeff