Battery relocation

allen600

allen600

New Member
Aug 6, 2010
166
0
0
oakdale
I have a 89 supra that I did a 2jzgte vvti swap on but looking at routing ic piping but it might be tight so i was looking at relocating the battery to the trunk, I was wondering if people would chime in and help me through this.

Here's my thoughts.

So I run a 1awg wire from positive cable up front to a 250a breaker then from that to the positive of the battery, from the negative of the battery run a 1awg wire to the block, run a separate wire from the positive of the battery to a 120a breaker then to the alternator, does this sound correct? The battery will be in a sealed box approved for track use I'm just curious about the actual wiring portion.
 
J

jzamerican

New Member
Jan 25, 2012
60
0
0
buffablow ny
i just finished mine up on my 1jz swap. i have a 2 gauge wire from trunk to distributuion block. then throm there i ran an 8 gauge wire to the fuse box then running power to starter from there. you want your ground from your battery to be as short as possibly so run one from battery to a GOOD ground in the trunk (bumper support or thick mounting structure) then do block to frame in the front
 
J

jzamerican

New Member
Jan 25, 2012
60
0
0
buffablow ny
i have one of my dist block right now. i just put my cable in yesterday and ran it behind everything and now its hidden :( i forgot to take pics

later tonight (have to leave for work now) i can show you where i ran the wire and what the wiring looks like after i hooked it all up at the dist. block
 
D

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
1AWG is either overkill, or not enough. The chassis of the car will only carry as much current for the ground side of things as 4AWG, so more than that isn't getting you much.

In my stereo competition days, I used a length of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe run underneath the car along the frame rail to supplement the current carrying capability of the steel. Copper wire from the battery posts to the pipe, and pipe to distribution block. Still, this isn't going to be necessary for a battery relocation.

4 AWG is easier to route, and can deal with everything that your alternator can put out, and more than enough to run your starter until the battery dies. Remember that while running, it's the alternator that's feeding everything, not really the battery.

On that note, a 250A breaker is really not necessary. That's really too big, and could let a fault do bad things without tripping. Your alternator only puts out 100A, so if that 1AWG cable shorts to ground, whatever you put at the battery end (You will have something at both ends, right?) might trip, but the 250A at the alternator end will not. Your voltage regulator will ramp up the alternator to full current, and wherever the cable is shorted will start welding. If it's an arc fault (IE, still has some resistance) it could still draw 80-120A, more than enough power to start a fire, and not trip that breaker. There should be no reason whatsoever that your car would need more than 100A, even while cranking.

I'd say that if you're willing to run 1AWG, then run a pair of 4AWG. One directly to the starter, and the other to the main fuse box. Put a breaker on the battery end of both, and one at the fuse box end. Don't worry about an extended ground cable, just make sure that you have a good solid ground at the battery.
 
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