Banjo bolt in back of head wont fit Please help

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Nov 25, 2005
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Hey does anyone know why the bango fitting for the heater core on the back of the head is not the same size as the hole in the head itself????? I have a brand new fitting from toyota. The hole in the head is alot bigger then the diameter of the banjo bolt. It looks like there needs to be a sleeve. I have 3 supras in the garage and this is the only one that is like this. Im thinking maybe sombody drilled it out at some point and put a sleeve in it. Can this be a JDM thing or has anyone else had this problem? We were hoping to have the car running today but this is getting in the way! We called toyota and they assured us that we have the correct bolt (same bolt for every 7M head). Any help is appreciated.
 
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GotBoost?

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Nov 25, 2005
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Thanks, Grim. I measured like you suggested, and although I can't find where i scribbled the numbers (I'm sure they'll turn up tomorrow), the bolt diameter is about 80% of the hole size. So it seems that either someone might have made the hole bigger, for w/e reason, or Toyota gave me a 20% smaller bolt. My friend suggests we sleeve the hole, or helicoil it. I spent a nice amount of cash refurbishing the head, and i'll ask the machinist about this. Maybe he forgot to mention it to me. Thank you.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Dumb question, but are you sure you've got the right bolt? Is it possible you're comparing the bolt hole to a banjo bolt belonging to some other part of the motor?
Like I said, it was a dumb question.
 

GotBoost?

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Nov 25, 2005
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Not a dumb question. I called Toyota and verified the bolt number, they match. It has to be that someone made the hole bigger and threaded it. I don't know why they would do something like that. I get disgusted about it and the motor sits on the stand, because once i mate it to the tranny, it's gonna take too much room, and we cant install it until we solve this problem.
 

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Kruso

2J>7M
Jun 9, 2007
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Lol, I was initially reading the post and was thinking to my self that "wow user error" but it really looks like someone really increased the size of your rear hole! (sry).

Sorry to hear it guy, I haven't looked at the back of my head in a little while but if this is infact the case, your best and easiest way of getting out of this would be loading the assembled engine to a machine shop and getting a bung welded on for a few bucks that will accomodate the stock part.

Kruso
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,235
37
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Atlanta
Kruso said:
Lol, I was initially reading the post and was thinking to my self that "wow user error" but it really looks like someone really increased the size of your rear hole! (sry).

Sorry to hear it guy, I haven't looked at the back of my head in a little while but if this is infact the case, your best and easiest way of getting out of this would be loading the assembled engine to a machine shop and getting a bung welded on for a few bucks that will accomodate the stock part.

Kruso


Yup- Like he said- they might even be able to WIDEN the hole slightly, to weld in an AL bung that matches the original size, instead of top mounting it, causing it to sit higher than stock.
 

GotBoost?

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Nov 25, 2005
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Thank you guys for the help. The bolt is 0.859 inch all the way. Now, the hole is 1.2 inch diameter right at the top, and 0.958 farther in (as far in as i could get with my vernier caliper). I doubt Toyota would have done a hole like this. I'll call both the racing shop who rebuilt my head ($$$), or a simple automotive machine shop to see if they would weld a fitting, as some of you have suggested. Do you suppose they can do all this with my motor almost completely assembled? I sure don't want to remove the head (pretty much everything is back on it, and I have brand new arp studs and Titan mgh). Gawd, the things we do for boooost...

PD: Here's the best close up of the hole. To the naked eye t sure doesn't look like there's anything wrong with it.
 

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MmmBoost

DDS Performance
my first head had that same fitting break off flush with the head when i went to take it off. i was able to remove the remains, and after the machine work i force-threaded a small block chevy 5/8" heater bung in and hooked up the hose to that. i teed in after the bend and put another hose on for the heater bypass.
i would have bought the banjo bolt, but this worked just as good.

as for welding it, i can assure you that its not possible. aluminum requires a lot of amperage to weld, and that sort of heat is going to warp the head. it would have had to be done before the head was re-worked because of heat distortion.