Well I just got a call from my machine shop. It started off as "I hate to be the bearer of bad news but" The rest of our conversation continued..."Well I magnafluxed your crank and it is cracked in two places, one crack is in the 1st journal the second crack is on the 7th journal." Mind you the previous rebuild only had 20k on it, so the crank had to be cracked when ATK assembled the engine. I will never buy another production rebuild ever, and don't reccommend anyone else buy one either from companies like ATK or Jasper. They might be ok for a daily driver but for race applications stay far far away. Make sure you take your engine to a reputable machine shop and have them do all the machine work so you know it is done right. Do it once and do it right! I know the previous statement has been said over and over but it is the TRUTH. It took me two productino rebuilds to figure out what I stated above, hopefully a few people will read this and understand. So now it looks like I need to source another crank, I am thinking I will just buy a crank kit and have my machinist magnaflux it before it goes in. If you think about it a new crank is 800.00 a remaned crank is around 250-300. If you add up all the machine work, magnafluxing, cleaning, and measuring an old cranks journals there is no way that the places that sell a remaned crank kit actually do all this and include bearings for that price. Good bearings alone will cost you more then 200.00. Magnafluxing is about 40.00, cleaning is about 15.00, Grinding a crank at my machinist's is 198.00. Sorry had to vent a bit.
If you haven't read my previous threads I am doing a full rebuild with the following:
JE or Wiseco's .040 over
Stock Prepped Rods
Cometic 2.0mm MHG
Clevite 77 Main/Rod Bearings and Thrust Washers
ARP Head Bolts, Rod Bolts, Mains
If you haven't read my previous threads I am doing a full rebuild with the following:
JE or Wiseco's .040 over
Stock Prepped Rods
Cometic 2.0mm MHG
Clevite 77 Main/Rod Bearings and Thrust Washers
ARP Head Bolts, Rod Bolts, Mains