ARRGH! updated! It runs but high idle!!!

[ihiryu]

EDIT go to last page for update!!



Hey guys, as some may recall that I'm doing a 2jz-get swap with 7m electronics, sorry for not posting pics or updating progress been pretty busy. Anyway, I've got a 88 turbo with a 2jz-ge from a sc300. The harness on the car was in pretty bad shape, so I ended up getting a JDM 7mgte harness. I did that rewired the cps (the cps already had the plug missing, it was hardwired in), extended the ISC wiring and rewired the 2j TPS.

I tried to start the car, no spark, checked it again, no spark, pulled the plugs, and guess what? Yay, no fuel either. Went ahead and jumped te1 and e1 (like it says on the TSRM), and no codes. The RPM gauge doesn't do anything either. I tried wiggling the CPS wiring while trying to start it, and nothing either. I'm at end's wits, but I can't find anything. It's a bit late in the day and I'm a bit frustrated, but can someone give me a heads up for tomorrow?

Thanks in advance.


EDIT: PICS!

 

[ihiryu]

That plug is for the CPS, one of the other guys rewired it but we want to double check it

 

[dok33]

You have all your power, grounds, ignitor and everything else hooked up? How did you run the alternator wiring?

Does the CEL come on when you just kick accessory power on? Do you hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the ignition on?

It sounds like you're either not getting power to the ECU or a tach signal (which is required for both fuel and spark).

 

[Syris]

Check your Ecu for power. The pinout is B+ and should be getting 12v

 

[ihiryu]

Yeah the CEL comes on, but when I jump TE1 and E1, it doesn't do anything. So maybe it just means I don't have any codes? I also hear the fuel pump running (can also kinda confirm it cause there's fuel in the lines). I cracked it open by the rail and there is fuel, but it doesn't sound like the injectors are clicking open.

I really cannot recall the alt. right now, but I remember wiring it up like how you told me via PM dok33. I really understand on what you mean "how it's ran", do you mind getting a lil more specific?

As far as the power and grounds go, I assume it's right, is there any I should really be looking out for?? I'm pretty sure I got them all right. I even added an extra ground on the coil pack.

As far as power to the ecu, I'll check it, is there a specific way I'm supposed to check the ignitor?

Thanks for the help guys!

On another note, my sc4 has developed a misfire...

 

[dok33]

The CEL should flash rapidly if you have Te and E1 jumped and no codes so something sounds funky. Go through the 7M wiring TSRM and check all of your power connections (I believe there's a copy on 1jz.com). Also make sure everything is plugged in, I missed a couple of connectors the first time around on mine.

The ECU uses the tach signal from the CPS to fire the injectors and coils so if you're not getting a tach signal it's not gonna run. Are you sure your CPS is in good shape and that it was done correctly when rewired?

 

[ihiryu]

Ok I got it....kinda. The cps wiring was fubar'ed so I got that taken care of, I got her to crank, and run for a split second, but nothing after that. Should the RPM gauge be moving even though it barely starts? Cause she doesn't. I remember reading somewhere last night that the RPM gauge should be moving during cranking. I dunno if that's right or not.

The IC piping isn't finished, but she should still start with some gas, but she isn't doing that, not backfiring so I'm pretty sure it's not 180'ed out. I guess I'll check that next.

Oh yeah, what throttle cable are you guys using??

 

[Syris]

Yes the tach should bounce up a bit when cranking. If not, go back to as stated. CHECK POWER TO ECU not the igniter

 

[10secdream]

Yes the rpms should bounce when you are cranking the car. Are you getting any spark at all?

 

[ihiryu]

Yeah I got spark, and the ecu is on, the car runs if I spray carb cleaner into the intake, so I guess I'm having a fuel delivery issue. If I spray the carb cleaner it'll stay running. After it eats up the carb cleaner, it stops. When it is running it's runs pretty smooth. I checked the wires to the injector clips both have power like they should but I'm still not sure.

Oh and b+ has power.

 

[Clint]

Try inspecting you CPS if the tach isnt bouncing then likely its something to do with your cps or the wires... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=16

 

[ihiryu]

The gauge cluster isn't working lol, I went back and looked at her when she was idling, and the RPM's aren't working at all. So I'm willing to say that the cluster isn't working. I'm also getting codes now. I don't remember which ones they are off the top of my head, but once I check them again after lunch I will get back to you guys

 

[ihiryu]

Alright the CEL is blinking twice, so I'm assuming I either have; code 11 or code 20 both of which is not in the book. I had a mishap with the EFI fuse so it erased all my codes from earlier....

I remember 51 (which I shouldn't worry about right?) 43 (something like that) I want to say two other ones...I'm going to try to start her up later and let her idle for a bit more to see if the codes come back

 

[XofXtimeX]

I just got done doing this... Make sure every connector is plugged in on the harness side in the glove box. I had different connectors so I had to use my old 7M connectors and swap them over to make them work. My car didn't have power to the ECU because there were to other clips in there that needed to be connected. If those aren't connected I'm pretty sure your car will do what its doing.

I had no action in my dash whatsoever. No CEL or gauges working either. I have made my own pinouts for these clips if they are different. Well I have them made from an 89 body harness to a 91 engine harness. MAY be similar. But yeah check those clips. Make sure each one coming from the engine harness has a home in the body harness of the cabin. IIRC there should be two other clips aside from the ECU clips that need to be plugged in. Well two or three.

HTH

-Nick-

 

[ihiryu]

Hey Nick thanks for the help, everything works but my RPM gauge. My CEL light comes on and everything. Did you ever figure out what you used for the throttle cable?? I know Dok33 used a bicycle brake cable deal

 

[XofXtimeX]

Yeah just use the bike cable kit. Go to a bike shop and the should have a 5 ft section (OR SO) that has a ball on the end of it. Also buy Narps, they come in baggies of two I believe. (spelling? That's how its pronounced anyways...) About $9.XX for everything.

Once you take your old one out its really easy to see what needs to be done. It's a pain to get to but not too bad. Be sure you put the Narp on BEFORE you cut the wire because chances are, it will be difficult when the wire frays after cutting to get that narp on.

Seriously man I thought the throttle cable was going to be an all day project but it only really took about 30-45 minutes. Easy Peasy.

Double check those wires in the glove compartment and wires for the DIAG port as well as the CPS for the tach wires. The Black wire in the DIAG port wires as that wire is the tach signal. At least on the 89+.

Good luck!

HTH

-Nick-

 

[dok33]

Sounds like you're getting closer, it's all the little crap (like knock sensors) that will drive you crazy. Stay cool Have you tried kicking on accy power and probing the ECU connectors to check that you're getting power where it needs to be?

 

[ihiryu]

Actually I got it all worked out last night guys, sorry I didn't post back up. I ended up getting her towed to the muffler shop, and then drove her back. My RPM gauge started working, but the my; speedo, temp, oil pressure, and boost didn't work. I got back to the shop, checked it all out again, and figured out what was wrong with the oil pressure gauge. No coolant, boost, or speedo. And I've noticed that my RPM's sometimes work. After everything is said and done, I'm happy; why? No codes whatsoever!!!

 

[ihiryu]

Ok guys got the IC piping finished and routed guys, but the car idles super high and doesn't seem very responsive.... The idles around 3000 RPM; if I tap the gas the idle won't drop at all.

Codes were; 51, 52, 24, 31, and 34.

Cleaned up the maf, pulled the efi fuse, and went at it again.

Codes now are; 51, 52, and 14.

I didn't have code 14 prior. Any ideas guy? I checked for vacuum leaks, and nothing, I did the leak test and no leaks. The idle is still crazy high though.