Arp main stud kit?

JStoked

JStoked

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Jun 27, 2010
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OK so i got my block back to put all my stuff back on to get it bored and planned. So question number 1 is i got 12 studs, 12 washers, and 12 nuts, and 2 bolts. Do the two bolts go on the main that has the thrust washers on them? if not where do the two bolts go? Next question is i got my block back and the machinist had taken all the mains off and put them in a box. I'm guessing that the arrows should all face the front of the engine and i know witch one is the thrust one but how do i figure out where the others go? (cus some dumb-a didn't take a pic in the first place) I fired him lol.
 
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IJ.

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reassembly40.jpg
 
TweeT91109

TweeT91109

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Jan 7, 2010
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IJ.;1683510 said:
reassembly40.jpg
Click to expand...

I mean this doesn't explain much, but its nice a pretty.


Just kidding. But the arrows do face towards the front of the motor. Also the bigger of the mains (which I don't think is mark, mine wasn't) goes closest to the front of the crank. Then going towards the back of the motor, is 2, and so on.
 
IBoughtASupra

IBoughtASupra

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When Ian gets mad, he gets mad. If you listen to everything you read on the forums, you will worry about everything. Just ask Ian how many times he gets a PM from me because I am over thinking everything.
 
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IJ.

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IBoughtASupra;1684013 said:
When Ian gets mad, he gets mad. If you listen to everything you read on the forums, you will worry about everything. Just ask Ian how many times he gets a PM from me because I am over thinking everything.
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Not "Mad" at all it's just frustrating when people listen to fools and ignore others that actually have a clue....

As I said I'm NOT in the habit of posting bullshit, if I posted there's a damn good chance I'm 99.99% sure I'm correct.
 
Poodles

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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TweeT91109;1683997 said:
Thats what I told my machine shop, but others have said other wise. :( I don't know what to do anymore.
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You're confusing going to studs (and the changes in the way they load the mains) and putting the caps out of order. Two completely different reasons.
 
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IJ.

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Poodles;1684065 said:
You're confusing going to studs (and the changes in the way they load the mains) and putting the caps out of order. Two completely different reasons.
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I've seen you post this a couple of times... mind explaining the reasoning behind it?

My "experience" is when I bought my New Block from Toyota we measured the Main tunnels with the factory hardware installed then changed it to ARP Studs and remeasured, there was 0 difference so we DIDN'T Line bore/hone it.

While each fastener works slightly differently the end result "Should" be the same achieving the exact same "Crush" on the bearing shells so you end up with the correct clearences, only time I see that ever changing is if the Install instructions aren't followed and some genius decides to change the Tq Setting...
 
IBoughtASupra

IBoughtASupra

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I always follow the ARP torque specs and I also use a generous amount on the threads and inside of the nut to make sure it is well lubricated so I get the accurate torque.

Ian, what is your recommendation of calibrating a torque wrench? It has been used on six engines to torque rods, mains and head bolts. Highest torque it has pulled was 80ft/lbs which was the specs from ARP for the 1JZ Head Studs.
 
Poodles

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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IJ.;1684070 said:
I've seen you post this a couple of times... mind explaining the reasoning behind it?

My "experience" is when I bought my New Block from Toyota we measured the Main tunnels with the factory hardware installed then changed it to ARP Studs and remeasured, there was 0 difference so we DIDN'T Line bore/hone it.

While each fastener works slightly differently the end result "Should" be the same achieving the exact same "Crush" on the bearing shells so you end up with the correct clearences, only time I see that ever changing is if the Install instructions aren't followed and some genius decides to change the Tq Setting...
Click to expand...

Yes, should be. But the point was he was confusing two completely different issues. On a used block it should be checked regardless of hardware.
 
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IJ.

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IBoughtASupra;1684074 said:
I always follow the ARP torque specs and I also use a generous amount on the threads and inside of the nut to make sure it is well lubricated so I get the accurate torque.

Ian, what is your recommendation of calibrating a torque wrench? It has been used on six engines to torque rods, mains and head bolts. Highest torque it has pulled was 80ft/lbs which was the specs from ARP for the 1JZ Head Studs.
Click to expand...

Don't forget the Washers, I'd send the wrench back to the manufacturer, most will do a recal for free or a small fee.
 
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