My car is almost ready only thing left is the radiator. I put the hks mhg but I didn't get the arp head studs on time since when I opened the box there were 3 studs missing and the shop couldn't wait any much longer. How hard is to put this arp heads studs? Do i need to take out the heads again?
Arp heads studs
- Thread starter blacksupra
- Start date
IIRC the cam shafts have to come out, though I'm probibly not the best person to answer this. Though I'm the type of person to wait to assemble the motor until you have all of the parts ready... If ARP fucked up you should contact them and ask them to quickly remidy it. Though myself I've had problems with ARP. I ordered a set of the undercut headstuds which they didn't have in stock. It took them 4 months to make them for me and finally send them to me and I had paid the extra $25 to have them shipped overnight.
?? cams come out? they dont have to come out when you pull the heads when you have the stock headbolts in. there shouldnt be any clearance problems if thats what your worried about.and arnt there people on this forum who re-torqued their stock headgasket without taking off the head? just removing the stock bolts and dropping the ARP's in?
Do not bother bolting the head down without having all the studs. You'll regret it. It's impossible to get the washers and nuts on with the head sitting on the block. You need to drop the washers into place on the head, then put it on over the studs. After that you can install the washers, drop it onto the block and torque it down.
My stud kit was missing 1 washer. I contacted ARP who sent me one immediately. Within 3 days I had it and was able to finish. Ya, waiting sucks, but in this case it's what you have to do.
My stud kit was missing 1 washer. I contacted ARP who sent me one immediately. Within 3 days I had it and was able to finish. Ya, waiting sucks, but in this case it's what you have to do.
just take out your headbolts one at a time, put a washer in it's place, then drop a stud down and tighten it by hand, then thread on the nut for it. make sure you have a 12 point deepwell, shallow walled socket for it, otherwise you wont be able to tighten down the nut for the stud. just do it one at a time, and you'll be ok. make sure you use the moly lube, and follow ARP's instructions. i torqued mine down to 90ft. lbs.blacksupra said:
it would be MUCH easier to take the timing belt off the cam gears to do this, because you'll have to turn the cam pulleys by hand to get the studs to fit past them. YOU DONT NEED TO TAKE THE CAMS OUT! i dont know where that info came from, but its dead wrong. and you dont need to take the head off again.
no they dont.NavySupra said:
you sir, are correct.souprat said:
edit: damn, grant beat me to it...
-shaeff
