whats the big difference? and is the extra 100 bucks for the ARP head stud kit really worth it? won't the ARP head bolts hold just as good if you install them the right way or is it all about the stud kit just giving you a more accurite tourqe reading.
ARP head studs vs ARP head bolt kits??
- Thread starter nofx230
- Start date
Studs require the threads in the block to be chased to clear the crap out of them and due to the way they work will give a better chance of even torque across the head.
The stock head bolts miss the last 1/4 of the threads in the block and over years they fill with crud and corrosion, the ARP's are longer and if you don't chase the holes you can't screw them all the way in by hand, I would never retro fit stud in a running engine it's something I leave to do on a stand so I can be sure the threads are spotless, if they're full of oil they will hydraulic giving a false Tq and then back off as the oil bleeds down.
yeah probably just going to get the ARP head bolt kit i understand that you get a quarter more thread to grab onto in the block with studs but you still only have 3/8th of thread holding the head down on top with the nuts correct me if I'm wrong but thats what I'm seeing
The Early blocks are prone to cracking from the Bolt holes to the steam holes next to them, extra thread engagement is a good thing, that 10mm of steel in the nut is probably equal to the entire length of cast iron strength wise!
Are you pulling the head to do this job?
Are you pulling the head to do this job?
You can use a Tap covered in Grease to chase the holes in the car if that helps?
(grease will catch any chips and crap then you wipe it and reapply between holes)
(grease will catch any chips and crap then you wipe it and reapply between holes)
yeah iv used that trick before usually just use the tap and penetrating oil and blast it out with compressed air hold much of the thread when using the arp bolt actually grab the block??? and is it common for threads in the block to strip on 7m's most the work iv done was on 22r's 2rz's and 3rz's my car has bout 110,000 on it and has never seen salt
Dunno on the bolts I've always used Studs in my engines, not common to strip a thread at all the Cast Iron is some of the hardest I've ever machined in an engine block, as I said earlier more prone to cracks in the Earlies, Air is fine as long as everything else is sealed up and there's no chance of blowing crap into it, Hope you intend to install a composite HG in this thing and not an MHG.
Good to hearnofx230;1799015 said:
MDS kits use "Stone" gaskets and Viton rubber parts if you can find one, "Stone" is an OEM supplier.
well about felpro or the composite HG they got on horsepowerfreaks.com just want to steer on the save side, never really had to work on a motor where the HG was so important, with toyota 4 bangers id just toss any ol HG and it would be good to go but i also wasn't running 15lbs of boost!
Never used FelPro's in a 7M but have built many SBC/BBC's using them and always had good results.
Someone is bound to jump in with some first hand experience though.
Someone is bound to jump in with some first hand experience though.