ARP Head Studs Torque Specs

[TheDarkRaver]

Hey guys,

I am just wondering if anyone knows the torque specs that come in the box when you buy ARP head studs. I thought I had the bit of paper with all that information in a safe place but can't seem to find it.

I am after the torque specs without molly lube but both will be handy for future reference.

Cheers,

 

[GuNDeZZZ]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1169809&postcount=2


80 ft/lb


Search is my friend. :sarcasm:

 

[EOS]

I looked for the instruction sheet for you and found the torque specs you requested. According to the sheet that came with my studs, the torque specs are as follows:

With the ARP moly lube, the final torque should be 80ft/lbs.

With motor oil, ARP recommends 120ft/lbs with 30wt oil. However, ARP recommends using their moly lube, not motor oil, due to "higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used."

If I were you, I'd go out and get the ARP moly lube, just to be on the safe side...

Joe

 

[GuNDeZZZ]

Don't forget to chase the threads in the block also...

 

[EOS]

Agreed. Chasing the threads is a must.

Joe

 

[92nsx]

Use the moly, and I would stop at 75 ft/lbs. Then on the re-torque go up to 80 ft/lbs

I can already hear his next question or thread "what is a re-torque".

Answer:

After 5 or so heat cycles preform a re-torque.
To do a re-torque properly, you "crack" the nuts counter clockwise ~ 1/8 - 1/4 turn, then torque back to spec.
In this case, go to 80 ft/lbs.

 

[SideWinderGX]

You crack the bolts loose on the retorque? I never knew that :X

 

[easternguy2005]

Don't forget the "pre-torque" procedure ARP recommends.

Also that moly lube felt more slippery than oil or grease on my fingers.

 

[jdub]

<Golf Clap> Excellent advice guys...good to see this kind of info offered up

 

[rabidchimp]

Chasing the threads is not a must. It won't hurt, and is a good idea....but its definitely not a "must."
-Aaron

 

[3p141592654]

Its a must for bolts, maybe not so important for studs.

 

[jdub]

Opposite...studs thread further into the block.

 

[boro drift]

Chasing the threads is not a must. It won't hurt, and is a good idea....but its definitely not a "must."
-Aaron

Thats not true. You must BOTTOM TAP the holes or the stud will not seat in the bottom of the hole, causing the stud to possibly back out.

 

[easternguy2005]

If I have to pull the head again not only will I chase but will do that chamfering thing. OH and don't forget to put the washer in place first before the stud.

 

[TheDarkRaver]

Hey cheers Joe for finding the instructions and getting the torque settings for me.. and a thanks to the others for the added info.. sorry about the delayed reply have been a bit busy..

The studs have been in the car for almost 2 years now and were originally torqued up to the arp guide with the moly lube.. But as 7M's like to do the copper head gasket decided to start leaking a little a few weeks back (only getting minor bubbles in the radiator nothing major).. So have taken the head off to re seal the gasket and put it back on, thats when I discovered the arp box with the instructions in it, is in my parents shed 200km's away..

 

[IJ.]

Chasing the threads is not a must. It won't hurt, and is a good idea....but its definitely not a "must."
-Aaron

Standard procedure for a quality build though....

 

[gaboonviper85]

Thats not true. You must BOTTOM TAP the holes or the stud will not seat in the bottom of the hole, causing the stud to possibly back out.

how far the stud is in the block has nothing to do with backing out...and thats words from an actual machinist...me

and you do not need to chase threads....a simple air hose with a spray nozzle will remove dirt...but yes it is the right thing to do to ensure good threads.

 

[IJ.]

20 years of crap build up and corrosion on the threads BELOW the stock bolts where the longer ARP hardware screws into suggest Chasing IS needed Goon.....

I run every thread and deburr every sharp edge and chamfer every hole as part of a build.

There's a difference in a "built" motor to one "assembled"

 

[Zumtizzle]

Do you all use thread chasers or taps and dies?

 

[3p141592654]

True, but for bolts the measured torque is mostly from the bolt threads sliding against the block threads, so those block threads must be perfect and clean to get an accurate torque setting.

For studs, the pristine stud/nut thread contact area defines the torque, which is why studs are preferred in the first place. But, for a quality build, you should do it for either case.

Opposite...studs thread further into the block.