Ok guys whats the difference between the Head Bolts and Studs not Physical but which is better and why? I am replacing the head and head gasket (stock) on my car and want to use ARP when done but need to know which ones to get.
ARP Head Bolts or Studs?
- Thread starter mcpcola
- Start date
motor will be staying in the car as I just put it in. I am going to get a valve job and put in a new head gasket and that is all.
thanks man i am to a point where if it doesn't work after this then it going to the crusher as no one wants a supra where i live.
IJ
that USED to be true before.
Studs now have been revamped. They include a 5mm allen key to install with engine in the car
that USED to be true before.
Studs now have been revamped. They include a 5mm allen key to install with engine in the car
Figgie: LOL what I meant is it's a PITA as you not only have to remove the Nuts and Washers but then the Studs as well if you're doing it in the car!
(1 extra step so the Bolts win)
With my car if somethings wrong and I need to pull the head the motor's coming out anyway so I went Studs.
(1 extra step so the Bolts win)
With my car if somethings wrong and I need to pull the head the motor's coming out anyway so I went Studs.
can ARP bolts/studs be re-used? i had a set on a N/A,but were pulled off and will be re-used on my 7mgte block.
figgie said:IJ
that USED to be true before.
Studs now have been revamped. They include a 5mm allen key to install with engine in the car
dude its still true. i have the new studs and it still sucks even with the allen heads on them.
i wish now i had gone with bolts. its not really a big deal, just would have been a little less cursing and frustration.
yeah, it was fun putting all the studs in then trying to get the head on then realizing i would have to pull each stud out to get the washers in. if you go studs, put the four middle ones in to help with putting the head on so the head gasket doesnt move. then start from the front putting a washer in then the stud so you can pull the other studs back out. the head shouldnt move once on the block because of the pins in the block.lagged said:
and by the way, what is the timing suppose to be set on a NA motor??
as corky bell put it "accountants use bolts, performance enthusiasts use studs" i'd post a zerox of the section and why its better but i have no scanner or time to post it up.
lagged said:
no way
if you consider that "suck" then I guess I have worked on other more complicated issues to even consider that to even be a nuicance
IJ. said:Figgie: LOL what I meant is it's a PITA as you not only have to remove the Nuts and Washers but then the Studs as well if you're doing it in the car!
(1 extra step so the Bolts win)
With my car if somethings wrong and I need to pull the head the motor's coming out anyway so I went Studs.
one extra step?!?!
this coming from a man that installed a t-56 tranny AND a custom made dual disc clutch and flywheel on the MKIII supra
figgie said:no way
if you consider that "suck" then I guess I have worked on other more complicated issues to even consider that to even be a nuicance
psssssshhhhhhhh get over your self
its a bit of a pain and you know it. :icon_razz
the actual difference (besides the obvious) is that bolts turn into the head as you torque them and the studs don't. Torque readings are supposed to be more accurate on studs because they don't have to deal with the friction of turning the whole deal
lagged said:psssssshhhhhhhh get over your self
its a bit of a pain and you know it. :icon_razz
NO!!! :icon_razz :icon_razz :icon_razz
it is simple!
BUT IT'S 1 extra Step !!!!<jk>figgie said:one extra step?!?!
this coming from a man that installed a t-56 tranny AND a custom made dual disc clutch and flywheel on the MKIII supra
LOL it's a TKO tranny as the T56 is too wide to fit between the seats!
On my second Twin now as I didn't think the Twin I built was going to cope with the new motor so I sourced an OS Giken Twin and had it modified to suit the TKO.