Apexi intake
- Thread starter mhopemk3
- Start date
bolts right up to the stock afm. takes longer to remove afm housing and reinstall than it does to actually install the intake kit. just remeber to leave the lil grill in there. i have one on my 89t and its a whole lot better!!!! might just wanna drill out your afm while its out for the lil extra kick and drop the fc.
I got two somehow. I bought one from SupraSport years ago, they took months and months to send it so i bought one else wheres and canceled my order at suprasport. then a few months later another one shows up on my door step.mhopemk3 said:
wierd.
I highly reccomend the K&N FIPK, it has much more surface area than the Apex unit.
Also, I reccomend www.horsepowerfreaks.com
They simply have THE BEST customer service and support. They'll match prices too!
About the "drilling the afm"
That is a pretty bad description of what you actually do.
There is a section in the afm that measures the air. This section has the "electronics" as they are lovingly refered to, in it. All electronics are the same and theoretically, they should all give the same ouput when the same amount of air passes through them. But they don't.
So there is a second chamber in the afm that is mostly blocked off be a calibration screw. Toyota blew a known amount of air through avery afm and adjusted this screw so that every afm gave the same output.
This chamber is just there to let toyota get away with a little slop in manufacturing, and still have precision in metering the air. If a meter read higher than the benchmark, then some of the air would be bypassed through the unmetered section to lower the ouptup from the electronics to match the benchmark. If it read lower, then less air would be bypassed, and the electronics would have a higher output.
This all make sense so far?
After they were calibrated, toyota plugged the hole so we wouldn't mess with it. When you remove the plug, you can turn the adjustment screw and recalibrate your afm. The outcome of letting more air bypass the elctronics is that the ecu doesn't see as much air, so it thinks that you aren't running as much boost as you are, so instead of reaching FCO at 11-12 psi, you can adjust it, in some cases, as high as 17 psi.
The downside is that since it thinks less air is present, the ecu injects less fuel, so you run leaner. Also, the ECU advances timing, as it thinks that the boost pressure is lower, so more timing would be appropriate.
This is not a mod I would do without the ability to moniter my egts and afr. ACCURATELY. a lean motor running at 17 psi will soon be a dead motor. but with proper fuel upgrades to compensate for the added air, this is a cheap and effective mod.
Also, I reccomend www.horsepowerfreaks.com
They simply have THE BEST customer service and support. They'll match prices too!
About the "drilling the afm"
That is a pretty bad description of what you actually do.
There is a section in the afm that measures the air. This section has the "electronics" as they are lovingly refered to, in it. All electronics are the same and theoretically, they should all give the same ouput when the same amount of air passes through them. But they don't.
So there is a second chamber in the afm that is mostly blocked off be a calibration screw. Toyota blew a known amount of air through avery afm and adjusted this screw so that every afm gave the same output.
This chamber is just there to let toyota get away with a little slop in manufacturing, and still have precision in metering the air. If a meter read higher than the benchmark, then some of the air would be bypassed through the unmetered section to lower the ouptup from the electronics to match the benchmark. If it read lower, then less air would be bypassed, and the electronics would have a higher output.
This all make sense so far?
After they were calibrated, toyota plugged the hole so we wouldn't mess with it. When you remove the plug, you can turn the adjustment screw and recalibrate your afm. The outcome of letting more air bypass the elctronics is that the ecu doesn't see as much air, so it thinks that you aren't running as much boost as you are, so instead of reaching FCO at 11-12 psi, you can adjust it, in some cases, as high as 17 psi.
The downside is that since it thinks less air is present, the ecu injects less fuel, so you run leaner. Also, the ECU advances timing, as it thinks that the boost pressure is lower, so more timing would be appropriate.
This is not a mod I would do without the ability to moniter my egts and afr. ACCURATELY. a lean motor running at 17 psi will soon be a dead motor. but with proper fuel upgrades to compensate for the added air, this is a cheap and effective mod.
i have the screw backed out and a good air fuel gauge. no problems, considering i have the walbro fuel pump and the fuel pump rewire mod and no issues as of yet!!!!!
i wouldn't go for the k&n FIPK. i would go for the k&n general (it's the long filter) cheaper, and i have seen it on plenty of MKIV's with over 1,000 hp, twin turbo and single.
i did buy the apexi and i just wish i went for the k&n general but oh well
i did buy the apexi and i just wish i went for the k&n general but oh well
After the AFM Screw-out, what specifically does one need to mod to the fuel system to protect the engine from leanness?
Remember: I'm still so wet behind the ears when it comes to all this that when my girlfriend uses my ears as handles her hands slip off. How do you watch the mixture lean/rich? When I put my beast back together I need as few surprises as possible. Thanks
is there a differance between say the HKS $150 intake vs the suprasport $80 k&n filter and afm adapter? i dont really see why the hks one would make more power and all you need is a filter on the end of your turbo. right? thoughts?
