Just wondering if any of our sponsors sell a ported or bigger fuel rail and how much it is... Also, is it worth getting?
Thanks,
Jake
Thanks,
Jake
Anyone sell big fuel rails?
- Thread starter Reign_Maker
- Start date
The MVP one won't work with the existing EGR.
Does anyone know if the LIPP one at Suprasport will?
Does anyone know if the LIPP one at Suprasport will?
I'm told the LIPP one is a direct fit unless you use dual-feed (in which case you may have to modify the alternator bracket for front feed line clearance)
Reign_Maker said:
I read somewhere that the limit of the stock rail was around 800 rwhp, if I recall correctly. I'm on the fence for that decision.
ma71supraturbo said:
Has anyone used the LIPP one with the factory EGR set-up?
So if its a direct fit, it attaches just like the factory one?
For the cost of the LIPP, I'd get it just for the looks.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I was drooling over the LIPP one at SILV this year, and it should be good to any power level the crank will hold up to. Very nice unit, and they are making some slight changes to the mold to make it fit even better.
The fit is tight between the alternator and the rail. Also most people who are going to use this rail, are going to have a FFIM anyway, so the alternator might be in a new location as a result... Just thinking out loud.
I'd guess the stocker is good to MORE than 800hp crank, and possibly that much at the wheels. It really would depend on the pump's ability to supply fuel at that level of power, and if your feeding the rail on both ends, or somewhere in the middle. (The stock 7MGTE rail really is setup well for dual feed. You just lose your cold start injector, use that port for the fuel return, and feed the rail on both ends, the front port where the FPR was mounted, and the rear port where the FPD mounts.
I'm running just one Walbro pump, but have no FPD, just an adapter and 180 AN6 fitting to stainless line to the stock fuel line at the left frame rail. I've removed the stock fitting, and just have the line double clamped to the pipe, but if you could find the right fitting, going with a flare/AN setup would be better. (I could not find the right fitting, so I just cut it off, flared the end of the pipe slightly with needle nose pliers, slipped on the AN hose, and double clamped it in place. I further zip tied the clamps so the hose CANNOT be pulled or pushed off the end of the pipe. (I'd like to have made a bead on the pipe, but could not find a good bead tool, so the ghetto needle nose flare will have to do the trick, and it does.)
On the other end, have the JBL setup, but my own custom AN stainless line to the Areomotive AFPR using the stock return pipe, and a section of fuel line for the return from the AFPR to the stock pipe. It's tempting to go stainless line there too, but you really can't see it, and I already have too much money in AN fittings and line on this car as it is... LOL
The fit is tight between the alternator and the rail. Also most people who are going to use this rail, are going to have a FFIM anyway, so the alternator might be in a new location as a result... Just thinking out loud.
I'd guess the stocker is good to MORE than 800hp crank, and possibly that much at the wheels. It really would depend on the pump's ability to supply fuel at that level of power, and if your feeding the rail on both ends, or somewhere in the middle. (The stock 7MGTE rail really is setup well for dual feed. You just lose your cold start injector, use that port for the fuel return, and feed the rail on both ends, the front port where the FPR was mounted, and the rear port where the FPD mounts.
I'm running just one Walbro pump, but have no FPD, just an adapter and 180 AN6 fitting to stainless line to the stock fuel line at the left frame rail. I've removed the stock fitting, and just have the line double clamped to the pipe, but if you could find the right fitting, going with a flare/AN setup would be better. (I could not find the right fitting, so I just cut it off, flared the end of the pipe slightly with needle nose pliers, slipped on the AN hose, and double clamped it in place. I further zip tied the clamps so the hose CANNOT be pulled or pushed off the end of the pipe. (I'd like to have made a bead on the pipe, but could not find a good bead tool, so the ghetto needle nose flare will have to do the trick, and it does.)
On the other end, have the JBL setup, but my own custom AN stainless line to the Areomotive AFPR using the stock return pipe, and a section of fuel line for the return from the AFPR to the stock pipe. It's tempting to go stainless line there too, but you really can't see it, and I already have too much money in AN fittings and line on this car as it is... LOL
the lipp rail is fine. PHR i think had one that now MVP carries.
I have all the measurements to get the rail custom made in either the 3/8 ID or 5/8 ID
Where i don't know i would have to dig it out from my paper trail.
I have all the measurements to get the rail custom made in either the 3/8 ID or 5/8 ID
Where i don't know i would have to dig it out from my paper trail.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Ok, fuel rail from the backside of the motor. Sorry you can't see the cold start injector fitting, but mine is stock since I'm using the stock cold start injector.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Adjuster/7MGTE/PICT0092.jpg
here is the fitting on the front. this one was from JBL with his AFPR kit that uses the Areomotive regulator, and some fabricated hoses and fittings. The adapter is a BSP type with an O-ring, same with the one I'm using in the back where the fuel pressure dampener would normally be. I have no mid line that goes to the engine mount, or a J tube on the return. They are both elimininated.
Here is the front side, and you can see the adapter fitting, and a 90 AN bend so you have a straight shot to the AFPR that is mounted on the left strut tower using JBL's mount.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Adjuster/7MGTE/PICT0097.jpg
You can also see a few other "mods" to the EGR system. I just used a long bolt, and tapped the hole in the head going to the #6 exhaust runner. It's long so I ported it smooth to the runner ID. It has worked great, and was cheap. It also removed the cooler plate, and any need for block off plates in the future. On the intake, you can't really see it very well, but the EGR port is just tapped, and a plug inserted to seal it up. Simple and effective, and most importantly, it was like .85 cents for the plug, and I have the taps already.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Adjuster/7MGTE/PICT0092.jpg
here is the fitting on the front. this one was from JBL with his AFPR kit that uses the Areomotive regulator, and some fabricated hoses and fittings. The adapter is a BSP type with an O-ring, same with the one I'm using in the back where the fuel pressure dampener would normally be. I have no mid line that goes to the engine mount, or a J tube on the return. They are both elimininated.
Here is the front side, and you can see the adapter fitting, and a 90 AN bend so you have a straight shot to the AFPR that is mounted on the left strut tower using JBL's mount.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Adjuster/7MGTE/PICT0097.jpg
You can also see a few other "mods" to the EGR system. I just used a long bolt, and tapped the hole in the head going to the #6 exhaust runner. It's long so I ported it smooth to the runner ID. It has worked great, and was cheap. It also removed the cooler plate, and any need for block off plates in the future. On the intake, you can't really see it very well, but the EGR port is just tapped, and a plug inserted to seal it up. Simple and effective, and most importantly, it was like .85 cents for the plug, and I have the taps already.
The LIPP fuel rail was made so you do not have to modify the alternator bracket UNLESS you use the dual feed option. We only have a few left from the first batch we showed off in Vegas.
Jack
SupraSport
Jack
SupraSport
