Any tips for rebuild?

D51208

New Member
Apr 22, 2014
35
0
0
Oswego
Howdy!

I'm in the process of pulling my 89 7mgte and R154 out of my 86 MK3 I just bought. I'm planning on dropping the engine and tranny into my other 87 MK3 which is an auto. The engine in this is rough. It is leaking oil in a few places, but it's gonna have to do until I can get the other engine in.

I couldn't get the 89 7mgte to start so that is what is spurring all of this on. In the mean time, the 86 is going to be getting prepped (long term) suspension and body wise for a performance car.

Is there any good tips and must do's for rebuilding it?
I was initially leaning towards a CHG but I am thinking a MHG at this point.
Porting and Polishing of the heads may be in order.
Going to be getting new oil and water pumps.
Thinking about clevite bearings and possibly ARP rod bolts.
ARP head studs are probably going to happen.

I have read conflicting information on the stock internals of the 7mgte's. I have heard they have a forged crank. I have also heard forged crank and rods. Alas I have also heard they are cast. I figured if it has forged rods and crank then I might as well save my pennies and throw forged pistons in. Any advice?

One last question. Can I use my 1987 7mgte ecu and wiring harness or should I pull the 1989 wiring harness out?

This will be my first engine rebuild, however I will be lightly supervised by my older brother who has rebuilt several motors and is a master tech in several manufacturers. He is ill however so I do not want to bug him too much.

As of right now, I need to remove the sump cross member and then remove engine mounts and it will be coming out.

I appreciate and look forward to any help.
 

jake8790

Life's too short for N/A
Dec 18, 2011
395
0
0
Oregon
A few 7M specifics, the timing cover has to be on while getting the block decked as the head seals across both surfaces. Also, the timing tensioner has to be properly torqued down during cylinder boring because it slightly distorts the #1 cylinder bore. The factory crank and rods are forged.

ARP head studs and a MHG are a must.

ARP rod bolts are recommended.

Shimming the oil pump relief 5mm is recommended.

Use only forged or OEM Toyota pistons. Do not use an aftermarket cast piston such as NPR.

7M Clevite bearings are reboxed bearings from other sources. I used ACL bearings and they worked out well.