Antilock warning light

[Trnsprtr]

Hi folks - it's been so long since I've had anything go wrong on my car, I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious:

Antilock light came on out of the blue; when I try to pull the code by turning the key on and disconnecting the check connector the light goes out and stays out. IIRC if it stayed on constant it'd likely be the ABS computer but I'm not quite sure what it's telling me here.

Tried clearing it by brake pedal and by pulling battery power but it comes back immediately.

Any suggestions?

 

[Heavy D]

arnt you suppose to jump 2 pins on the diagnostic box to find out? cause i do this on my avalon, also do you have a super monitor and what year is your car?

 

[DigityD'87]

Hi folks - it's been so long since I've had anything go wrong on my car, I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious:

Antilock light came on out of the blue; when I try to pull the code by turning the key on and disconnecting the check connector the light goes out and stays out. IIRC if it stayed on constant it'd likely be the ABS computer but I'm not quite sure what it's telling me here.

Tried clearing it by brake pedal and by pulling battery power but it comes back immediately.

Any suggestions?

In order to pull codes from our cars you have to take a wire or paper clip and jump E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic box and then turn your car on to ACC.

 

[mkiiichip]

arnt you suppose to jump 2 pins on the diagnostic box to find out? cause i do this on my avalon, also do you have a super monitor and what year is your car?

In order to pull codes from our cars you have to take a wire or paper clip and jump E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic box and then turn your car on to ACC.

Seriously guys?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=52

To the OP, that is very strange. Are you sure you have the right connector? I am not close enough to my car to see if there is another one, that it can be confused with.

Hopefully jetjock will chime in.

 

[Heavy D]

well u do know you jump those 2 pins like digity said, i have done it but then again this car is old and i was just going with that. plus i dont jump connectors since i have the SM.

 

[mkiiichip]

He is not trying to pull engine codes. There is a different procedure for pulling ABS codes.

 

[Nick M]

The only error codes the system can store are from its inputs, and that is the speed sensor circuitry.

Antilock light came on out of the blue; when I try to pull the code by turning the key on and disconnecting the check connector the light goes out and stays out. IIRC if it stayed on constant it'd likely be the ABS computer but I'm not quite sure what it's telling me here.

Tried clearing it by brake pedal and by pulling battery power but it comes back immediately.

You can't clear a hard fault.

I had to go read about pulling the codes on this. Always on isn't good.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=53

Check the ABS fuse. The Antilock light operates on its own fuse, turned on by the ABS computer. If you unplug the ABS computer and the light goes out when it should stay on, then it can't be getting its power. Or the control unit is bad.

 

[Trnsprtr]

I know it's been forever - just wanted to say thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately none panned out but it turned into a larger issue; the cruise and the tems went inop as well so there is some wiring issue that I just haven't had time to track down.

 

[barkz]

 

[Trnsprtr]

Wow - almost a year since I first wrote this - and it's finally fixed. Obviously I haven't been working on it full time, plenty of other projects

Nick M was right - basically the ABS computer was not getting it's power from the ECU-IG fuse. So if you have an ABS light, try to check the codes and it just turns off, the ABS computer has no power. Thank you, Nick!

The voltage was there under no-load conditions but would drop to 3 volts with the computer plugged in. It started as ABS only and then eventually turned into everything the ECU-IG fuse feeds causing a voltage drop if they were plugged in.

Voltage was there but current was not due to a damaged wire that got worse over time behind the fuse panel.