aluminum rods
- Thread starter Tun_x
- Start date
why do you want aluminum rods?
stock I beam rods are actually pretty damn strong, get them balenced, and cryo treated.
they should be able to hold 500-550ish hp
if you want strong rods get Eagle. there H beams, and should hold what you can throw at them
stock I beam rods are actually pretty damn strong, get them balenced, and cryo treated.
they should be able to hold 500-550ish hp
if you want strong rods get Eagle. there H beams, and should hold what you can throw at them
The market demand for 7m Al rods could be counted on one hand, so it's probably a custom job. Search for aluminum connecting rods on google and contact some of the Domestic market vendors to see if they can make them, price, etc . . .
Big names in the Domestic market: Childs+Albert, Manley, Cunningham, etc.
Aluminum rods are great if you are rebuilding your engine every couple of passes. Strong and very light, but for a daily driver pretty costly. Stick with a reputable forged rod, or drop some very serious coin on some Ti rods (still custom, but much longer lived).
These guys make custom rods, and do some import stuff:
http://www.rrconnectingrods.com
Matt
Big names in the Domestic market: Childs+Albert, Manley, Cunningham, etc.
Aluminum rods are great if you are rebuilding your engine every couple of passes. Strong and very light, but for a daily driver pretty costly. Stick with a reputable forged rod, or drop some very serious coin on some Ti rods (still custom, but much longer lived).
These guys make custom rods, and do some import stuff:
http://www.rrconnectingrods.com
Matt
I would like to have in my possession aluminum rods because they are lighter, and for the most part, stronger.
It would reduce weight on the rotating mass and it would increase horse power.
It would produce a quicker revving motor...in essence better throttle response.
These are just some of the simple things that make an all-out race motor work.
It would reduce weight on the rotating mass and it would increase horse power.
It would produce a quicker revving motor...in essence better throttle response.
These are just some of the simple things that make an all-out race motor work.
Superjustin13 said:
eagle rods suck.... more so the bolts they use in them suck....i wouldnt trust them for anything over 600hp.... and for that mark i would just use stock shotpeened rods.....
crower is about the only option for rods if you are looking to throw anything you want at it and expect it to work well.
Idealsupra said:
i guess its a matter of opinion of who you ask,
shotpeened rods are making the rods stronger.
but cryotreated does aswell, but thats questionable to whom you ask.
and if you go though the trouble of getting them shotpeened might as well pay another 175 to get the bottom end fully balanced. Even thought japanese motors are Very well balanced, its more or less added insurance
what now jason
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
? Do some research on your Aluminum rods please!!! 
They are light. They are strong.
They fail if you run them longer than a few moments compared to "normal" car engines! (Ok, l would be very impressed if you get 50,000 miles out of an engine using Aluminum rods from anyone.) Aluminum quickly reaches a point where it cracks, and then fails when used as rods. (Thus the use of aluminum rods in an engine that will be rebuilt in a few passes, and the rods are REPLACED every time. Not re-used.)
Pretty dang expensive in a street car IMHO.
Other options are Ti rods, also a problem with long term wear and tear on those actually, and forged/billet rods. (I like my Pauters, but they are not lighter than stock, but will hold up to long term wear and tear, and insane power levels.)
Rotating mass is not a bad thing. Lighter flywheel, driveshaft and other stuff like wheels and tires are all good things to have lighter than stock. You can reduce the weight of the crank by knife edging it, or even further by removing more metal from the counterweights. (Assuming you can get the rods and pistons lighter so it all is balanced.)
I have knife edged my stroker crank, used Pauter forged billet rods and ROSS pistons, and it spins up nice and quick. (I also have a fidanza flywheel, CF driveshaft and SSR Comp wheels that are some of the lightest around.)
Other consideration is price.
Your aluminum rods are not that expensive, but engine life using them has to be factored into the "cost".
The stock rods are good to 500hp or more. (Especially when beam polished, and shot peened.)
Don't know about the Eagle's or other rods, but I know the Pauters are excellent. Figure your going to spend a grand buying rods here. (Or IIRC, the Eagles are like 700.00ish.)
Best advice is to pay some money to have your engine's rotating assy balanced. It pays off later when your engine runs nice and smooth.
Good luck.
They are light. They are strong.
They fail if you run them longer than a few moments compared to "normal" car engines! (Ok, l would be very impressed if you get 50,000 miles out of an engine using Aluminum rods from anyone.) Aluminum quickly reaches a point where it cracks, and then fails when used as rods. (Thus the use of aluminum rods in an engine that will be rebuilt in a few passes, and the rods are REPLACED every time. Not re-used.)
Pretty dang expensive in a street car IMHO.
Other options are Ti rods, also a problem with long term wear and tear on those actually, and forged/billet rods. (I like my Pauters, but they are not lighter than stock, but will hold up to long term wear and tear, and insane power levels.)
Rotating mass is not a bad thing. Lighter flywheel, driveshaft and other stuff like wheels and tires are all good things to have lighter than stock. You can reduce the weight of the crank by knife edging it, or even further by removing more metal from the counterweights. (Assuming you can get the rods and pistons lighter so it all is balanced.)
I have knife edged my stroker crank, used Pauter forged billet rods and ROSS pistons, and it spins up nice and quick. (I also have a fidanza flywheel, CF driveshaft and SSR Comp wheels that are some of the lightest around.)
Other consideration is price.
Your aluminum rods are not that expensive, but engine life using them has to be factored into the "cost".
The stock rods are good to 500hp or more. (Especially when beam polished, and shot peened.)
Don't know about the Eagle's or other rods, but I know the Pauters are excellent. Figure your going to spend a grand buying rods here. (Or IIRC, the Eagles are like 700.00ish.)
Best advice is to pay some money to have your engine's rotating assy balanced. It pays off later when your engine runs nice and smooth.
Good luck.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Just because the stock rods have held up to 800hp a few times, does not mean they will do this over a long time. (And I'm sure those "stock" rods did not have stock bolts anymore either...)
Rev them to 7k and they will explode at those power levels.
Last thing to fail on my engine will be the rods. Cheap insurance. (My worry is the oil pump drive shaft actually. It's not very large and it's further turned down to clear the rods with the stroker motor.)
Rev them to 7k and they will explode at those power levels.
Last thing to fail on my engine will be the rods. Cheap insurance. (My worry is the oil pump drive shaft actually. It's not very large and it's further turned down to clear the rods with the stroker motor.)
Eagle Rods come with ARP bolts, what is wrong with them compared to the stock bolts? Eagle rods are an ok upgrade from stock rods but for my money, I would go with custom billet 5140 steel rods or titanium rods. If you don't like the options avaliable for "off the shelf" rods, you could always have the crank machined to fit SBC aftermarket rods.
suprarich said:
the arp bolts are exactly the problem with the eagles.... mk4 guys who use them consider them a downgrade to th stock 2j rods.... the bolts are weak (you CAN upgrade them but this raises the price considerably).
there is a reason the eagle rods are 400 bucks.... like i said before... good for 600hp prob...but i wouldnt be trying to make much more then that thinking im perfectly safe with the eagles.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
And a why the Pauters are a grand
Longevity, and just flat out the best design possible. (Less windage, and they are as light as they can be for how strong they are.)
Longevity, and just flat out the best design possible. (Less windage, and they are as light as they can be for how strong they are.)
The rod bolts in a stock 2j are larger than the arps that come with eagles. with that in mind the better route to go on a 2j is to simply upgrade the stock rod bolts to a larger arp.. (when i say larger i mean larger than the eagle counter part)
Why are we talking about the 2j, arp only makes one pn for the 2jz, and it is the same as the ones that come in the eagle rods for the 2j. Back on track- the 7m arp's are 8740 chrome molly steel 200,000 psi bolts and are loads stronger than the stock steel bolts.
Tun_x said:
Malloynx just threw a stock rock at 550 rwhp today: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32197