Age rearing it's ugly head...

GotToyota?

Dedicated Member
Apr 6, 2005
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My MK3 is an 89, that's not the problem. The problem is that my chassis has just hit around 268k miles, bleh! There are all sorts of creaks/rattles sometimes while on the road, and it's irritating. I know it might be due to my exhaust, but what can I do to fix some of these sounds while on the road?

-Matt
 

RazoE

Boobs/Boost, my favorite
Jun 13, 2006
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Im at 240k myself (well, 239,867)..

except im a TARGA..

my shit sounds like those tool boxes you carry around, and all the tools clang each other..

WD-40 is your friend, also check some of your bolts, im sure with time, some may loosen..
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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I'd put the car up on jackstands and get under there with a prybar and a socket set.
Give everything a wiggle that you think is suspect. Put the ratchet on every bolt you come in contact with and give it a tug. Even with 170k on my chassis, when I tore it down there were some bolts that weren't technically loose, but they weren't as tight as I'd like bolts on the suspension components to be.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to just start buying some poly bushings and replacing them as you can. Because you WILL have some sloppy bushings.
 

GotToyota?

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Apr 6, 2005
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Thanks for the advice, I'll try to find some time to tighten random bolts around the car that aren't exactly tight.

Where can I get a good bushing set? And do you mean bushings for the suspension?

-Matt
 

crrider80

Too soon Jr.
Jun 3, 2006
341
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Quit it with the wd-40. Remember, that crap is water based. While wd-40 is your friend PB Blaster is your friend with benefits. Don't be tuggin on any random bolt. Some of us have rust buskets and these bolts WILL break on ya. BE CAREFUL!!!
-Steve
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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I just started with every bolt and nut on the interior behind the plastic panels.... Hell, half the screws for the interior plastic trim were falling out as well. That cured about 60% of the creaks and rattles my car had, new bump stops and hatch weather strip fixed another 30%. The last thing I need to do is tighten up everything inside my driver's side door... already did the passenger side.
 

Selz202

More than Regular Member
May 1, 2005
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You can get a poly bushing set from suprasport. Thats probably one of the first things id do if im trying to bring a high mileage car back to a newer feeling.
 

born2drv

Banned
Nov 1, 2005
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for me it's those stupid plastic trim peices that run on the pillars on the sides of the hatch glass. the clips for those things don't sit properly, some of the plastic is broken, etc. it's just stupid shit like that you have to track down.

when i get my body work done i'm having the whole carpet pulled and replaced, and i'm going to have them rhino-line the entire damn floor. i've also removed all the trim in the hatch area and i'm going to have on big ass custom fiberglass panel made with the underside all carpeted to reduce vibrations.
 

GotToyota?

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Apr 6, 2005
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born2drv said:
for me it's those stupid plastic trim peices that run on the pillars on the sides of the hatch glass. the clips for those things don't sit properly, some of the plastic is broken, etc. it's just stupid shit like that you have to track down.

when i get my body work done i'm having the whole carpet pulled and replaced, and i'm going to have them rhino-line the entire damn floor. i've also removed all the trim in the hatch area and i'm going to have on big ass custom fiberglass panel made with the underside all carpeted to reduce vibrations.
That Rhino Lining isn't a bad idea, I'd also do it for the hatch area, if I were you.

-Matt
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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Dont use Rhino lining. There are many better products that will be considerably better for sound dampening. Also, don't use an asphalt based product. These will not stay in place when applied to anything but a horizontal surface.

Do some research on sound deaening products. There is some stuff you can buy that you roll on. I will try and find the name and edit this post.
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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crrider80 said:
Quit it with the wd-40. Remember, that crap is water based. While wd-40 is your friend PB Blaster is your friend with benefits. Don't be tuggin on any random bolt. Some of us have rust buskets and these bolts WILL break on ya. BE CAREFUL!!!
-Steve

You quit it. WD40 is not water based, it's a water dispersant... that's even what the name stands for.
Water Dispersant 40
imaginary +1 to anyone who can answer correctly what the "40" means.


Matt: suprasport has the ronnieK full poly bushing set.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
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Denver, CO
Yup, Water Displacement 40th attempt. Developed by Norman Larson as a corrosion prevention. While it does have *some* lubricating properties, I wouldn't recommend it for most things... there are far better lubricants out there.

WD-40 is great for coating things like your block's deck during a rebuild though.
 

JMDigital

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Jun 2, 2006
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born2drv said:
for me it's those stupid plastic trim peices that run on the pillars on the sides of the hatch glass. the clips for those things don't sit properly, some of the plastic is broken, etc. it's just stupid shit like that you have to track down.

when i get my body work done i'm having the whole carpet pulled and replaced, and i'm going to have them rhino-line the entire damn floor. i've also removed all the trim in the hatch area and i'm going to have on big ass custom fiberglass panel made with the underside all carpeted to reduce vibrations.

Look up LineX . Its used as a spray on truck bedliner, However the place that puts it on told me alot of people use it for high end stereo system installs. They have to spray it on, its not something you can get in a can. I am having them do the engine bay, interior ,and hatch. Im also told they can make it thick and you can drill into it to mount stuff.
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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www.driftmotion.com
There are a lot of nuts and bolts in the doors that get loose. Also the rear hatch gets annoying if you don't replace the rubber bumpers on both sides. The steering rack bushings go bad and the steering gets all scarry along with clunking of the rack in the brackets. Then the lower balljoints are usually the first suspension component to go. The sleeves on the brake caliper bolts can get worn and the calipers will clunk going over bumps. The bushings usually do look bad, but they will outlast a lot of other things.