AC going back in, need input on flush

grimreaper

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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Ive collected all the parts i need to install the ac system on my 89. My concern is the flush of all the lines and condenser before i install it. Ive read many reviews online on what to use and how but it really seems to be a matter of opinion as to what flush is best and how to do it. Compressor is brand new along with the expansion valve and receiver. In regards to the lines and condenser, what should i use to get a nice clean ac system? Local stores carry aerosol flush kits and flush fluid by the qt... any of these decent?

From what ive read the flush needs to evaporate, whats wrong with rubbing alcohol and letting the parts dry out?

I want this to be a one time ordeal, not a yearly refill that Ive witnessed so many times before...
 
jetjock

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
You could always buy a gallon of flush if you need more or use another solvent first and finish with the quart from the kit. In a pinch I've flushed with mineral spirits, high grade isopropanol, acetone, B12 Chemtool, etc, followed by purging with N2. Compressed air can also be used. The problem with air and store bought IPA is the amount of water they can leave behind. Rubbing alcohol has a lot of water in it. Not a big deal as long you evacuate well but try getting a better grade IPA at a hardware or paint store. Use a real vacuum pump (no venturi pumps), preferably two stage. A heat gun or having the engine bay hot will speed things along. That said using real AC flush is best.

Replace all O rings with the proper material depending on which refrigerant is being installed. Might want to buy yourself a bottle of Nylog too:

http://tinyurl.com/dy9alr

Expect to be rewarded for doing it right. I can't remember the last time I needed to service my system...
 
jetjock

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
You be welcome. If stuff is really bad use B12 and follow up with IPA, otherwise the kit flush alone will do. Fwiw a used condenser is somewhat of a crap shoot because not only are they hard to get truly clean but once exposed to air they begin to corrode from acid in the refrigerant oil. I wouldn't worry about it too much but if you can afford a new one now would be the time...
 
Poodles

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Condenser is no longer available from the dealer, but they where able to source one for me.

Just an FYI (still have all these parts sitting here to repair my system, still need to get the o-rings, possibly evaporator depending on how bad it is, flush, and the stuff to evacuate and fill...)
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

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Good points, ill keep that in mind.
When i got my hands on the condensor and all the lines i flushed everything with the liquid flush autozone had and an air compressor before i stored it all. Ill pick some IPA up at the paint store and see if i can get the parts any cleaner.
 
Poodles

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Was never able to find an upgrade one for R134 use that would bolt into our cars...

I THINK they sourced it from radiators.com, but i'm not sure...
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

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What would make an aftermarket one better then the stocker? I pulled the end caps off, the fins remind my of the intercooler design. im converting to r-134 as well.

Here is one that is near stock length, should allow for fitment into the rounded corners at the bottom of the radiator support. 14 X 21 (Website has it listed wrong)
http://polarbearinc.com/webstore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=3661

Or shorter but stock length to clear the bottom curve on the support. 12 X23
http://polarbearinc.com/webstore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=3658

There prices look good, but a custom line to the compressor would be needed (or at least the fitting).
 
jetjock

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Serpentine versus parallel flow. PFs are 30% more efficient and really ought to be used with 134. The downside is PFs are harder to clean. Then again OEM might be a PF so maybe I spoke too soon. It would not be typical for the era though. Are the channels under the end caps serpentine like an old tube and fin heat exchanger? Do they loop back onto one another? A condenser can have flat channels and still be serpentine so you have to look closely.
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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Inner tubes have nice square fins inside best i can tell from the angle. here are some pics for grins...
 

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Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
Is that a stocker?

Mine that I had sourced doesn't look like that...

EDIT: Pic, and it's still vacuum packed and will stay that way until it's installed.
p1290225_1.jpg
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
Not sure on my car as it's windy and cold and I don't wanna go look :rofl: I bet it's the same and my compressor probably failed so I wasn't going to jack with trying to clean it out. Got the seals to rebuild my spare compressor, both soft lines, and expansion valve (wanted to make sure as the pressures I was seeing were abnormal before it failed).

The flange where the pipe mounts isn't as nice looking on this but hopefully it works as well or better, looks to have a LOT more fins.
 
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