A little clarification needed on bearing size 7MGTE

[ihateu3]

I have been readin the tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=70

I understand how to get the crank numbers, but I am unsure on the cap numbers. According to the TSRM it shows the numbers are on the side of the cap, all my caps say "4 0" and then a slash underneath that could be interpreted as a 1 on the side of the cap (looks like it was dremeled), however I do not think this is the correct number.

Thanks

 

[hvyman]

Block numbers can only be a 1,2, or3.

Also those numbers are only useful if using Toyota select fit bearings and the crank shaft has not been turned. Clearances still need to be checked after installing Toyota select fit bearing.

 

[ihateu3]

Sorry, I fixed the link to work now. Anyways, yes my crank doesn't need turned and never has been. I am wanting to use OEM Toyota bearings and will plastigauge afterwards, but going on the tsrm, I should be able to order a 1-5 size bearing that will at least get me close. The problem is, that according to the TSRM, there is a number stamped 1-3 on the side of the cap. If you look at my cap, there does not appear to be any numbers that are 1-3 and all my caps are like that. However on the rod portion, 5 of my rods are labeled 2, while the number one rod is labeled 3. Is there a possibility seeing as I have no numbers on my cap, that I use the number on the rod, and the tsrm just pointed to the wrong location?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Sounds more likely, for sure.

 

[hvyman]

The numbers on the rod cap are the numbers for the rod bearings.

The numbers on the main are for the mains.

Any number on the block by the mains and what do the rest of the main caps say?

 

[ihateu3]

I guess this is where I am going with this, of course by following the tsrm. The appropriate numbers are on the crank, in the exact spots that the tsrm shows, I have those. Now the tsrm states the number on the rod cap will be a 1-3 number in the location that I took the photo from. The only numbers on my rod cap, which can be seen in the photo are 4 and 0, which is not the 1-3 the TSRM states, and all my rod caps carry those same numbers, this is why I am confused. I guess there is the possibility that someone put aftermarket rods in, but they still used the OEM Toyota rod bearings. I believe them to be stock rods though, as they even have the "Z" that crosses the rod and cap, that z can be seen in the TSRM diagram.

Going from the photo (those are the only numbers) can someone distinguish what my number is? Thats why I am saying something is not making sense here...

 

[hvyman]

Ok. The link you post are for the Connecting rods.

The pic looks like that is a main cap.
Main cap numbers are on the oil pan surface of the block.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=73

 

[CyFi6]

After 25+ years I wouldn't give any value to those stamped numbers... If you want to do it right, measure the all the crank journals and match each to a number in the TSRM, then measure all the main bearing bores and do the same, then measure all the rod big ends and do the same. Once you have a number assigned to each component you can use that to find what bearing you need. You have no idea what has been moved around etc in the past 25 years unless you are the original owner of the vehicle, and even then, things wear and numbers change. Don't rely on the stamped numbers.

 

[ihateu3]

Ok. The link you post are for the Connecting rods.

The pic looks like that is a main cap.
Main cap numbers are on the oil pan surface of the block.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=73

I can see where you could think they where the main caps, I zoomed in so much so the numbers where visible, but I assure you this is the connecting rod cap, so It seems we are stumped...

 

[ihateu3]

This may be the route I have to take, I was trying to avoid it as I do not have the right tools to measure this, was just gonna go the plastigauge route. The motor bottom end was fully rebuilt oem 40k ago, I just want to make sure its tip top again before selling it, as I moving on to 2jzgte.

 

[CyFi6]

If everything was great and the bearings looked perfect, you may get away with simply replacing the current bearing with a new one of the same number. You would want to plastigauge before you button it all of of course though.

 

[hvyman]

I can see where you could think they where the main caps, I zoomed in so much so the numbers where visible, but I assure you this is the connecting rod cap, so It seems we are stumped...

Then that should be a 1.

Also we're Toyota bearings taken out? If Toyota rebuild it they might not have even used Toyota bearings and it possible the short block was done at a machine shop. Most shops don't do actual rebuilding of the short block now a days.

 

[ihateu3]

Thanks guys for the help. I have contacted mark at vancouver toyota, awaiting his response. In a worse case scenario, I will just order one middle sized toyota bearing, plastigauge it, and see where it measures to see if I can make sense of the numbers in effort to understand the other 5 bearings before purchasing them. I could also use this middle sized bearing as my "measurement" tool across all 6 rods, since it is in the middle of all the sizes, it will either fit, or at least I will know how much bigger or smaller I need to go...

BTW, I may even be posting this motor here for sale if anyones interested, but I am going to post it on CelicaSupra first, since it will be a full swap and has already had the pan swapped out/oil pump modified to fit pan, motor mounts moved (no biggie) etc. It could also be used for a Cressy swap without any change.

 

[hvyman]

The select fit bearings are all not a standard size. So if the crank has been machined all those will be off. It's meant for the machining process of the actual motor.

Honestly your 10x better off just taking the crank to a machine shop have it polished and checked and then getting some clevites to the size the machine shop said and double checking with plastigauge.

 

[Turbo Habanero]

What pistons are you using?

 

[Backlash2032]

Are there any numbers on the actual bearing that reference what size it is?

 

[ihateu3]

Ok, well my crank has never been machined, but would a select fit 3# bearing be the same size as another select fit #3 bearing? So I should be able to get measurments from the way that bearing fits by using other select fit bearings as needed?

 

[ihateu3]

Are there any numbers on the actual bearing that reference what size it is?

No, I think they may have wore off. But they do still say Taiho on them, so far the only numbers I have seen on them Toyota said was a date code on the bearing.

Turbo Habenero, the pistons are also OEM Toyota, the motor I kept all OEM Toyota down to the oil filter and even all belts on the motor. I only changed out the big things that mattered, HKS MHG, ARP's, 550cc PTE injectors, Bosche BOV, K&N filter, fidanza flywheel, raptor racing feramic 6 puck clutch, ect. I was building a reliable performance motor and have run high 12's with it @110 and still keep daily reliability.

 

[hvyman]

A number 3 is a number 3.

How do you know the crank was not machined when it was rebuilt. Did it have rid knock when it was rebuilt.

Honestly trying to figure all this out just for the sake of saying you have Toyota bearings is not really worth it. A simple mic and some clevites will do the same thing.

 

[ihateu3]

A number 3 is a number 3.

How do you know the crank was not machined when it was rebuilt. Did it have rid knock when it was rebuilt.

Honestly trying to figure all this out just for the sake of saying you have Toyota bearings is not really worth it. A simple mic and some clevites will do the same thing.

Don Culbertson (DON on cs.com) and Sean Pease (Junkie on cs.com) in Everett, WA very long standing and trustworthy members did all the engine work, and stated * Rebuilt bottom end – all new OEM Toyota lower end bearings – new OEM Toyota rings

No, there was no rod knock, this was a freshened build that was meant to last.

But anyways, I would rather keep it Toyota, but if I do go Clevites, I am still pissed off that I can't figure these cryptic markings on the rod caps lol! Wish I would have been allowed to keep all my gauges at my old machinist job, wouldve been a sinch! Hell I even made rods on the CNC mill I ran, I know the whole process in manufacturing them, it was me lol!

I don't know if I trust a set of verniers or mics if I had to buy a set, because my price range would only allow harbor freight, we only used MITUTOYO, then again I guess I could make the drive back to my old machine shop to have some cheapies dialed in on the blocks...