Our 1990 is still R-12. about 2yrs ago the P.O. had a new compressor, clutch, drier, expansion valve and evaporator put in. but they actually filled it back up with R-12!!!! it's not blowing very cold right now.... debating what to do.
A/C R-12 to R-134
- Thread starter Supra5MGTE
- Start date
check if you still have ac in the canister when its blowing, if it ran out you might have a leak. otherwise you can go to almost any local parts store and buy a converstion kit. my opinion r-134 blows cold as hell.
it's still got it. it blows "OK", just not stone cold. we sell the conversion kit at my work for $35. But I personally think a/c work should be left to the pro's. and i like to put the system under vacuum for a few hours before filling it. so I'll probly find a decent a/c guy and tell him what i want.
You are correct. AC work IS best left to professionals. If not converted correctly, it would be a very expensive mistake.
you can buy an a/c manifold set for ~$50, and a venturi type vacuum pump for less than $20 at harbor freight. Then you'll have the tools to do it right, anytime you want to, at less cost than it would be to hire a pro. But that's coming from someone who doesn't trust any of these "pros" to touch his car.
I'd leave as R12 and do what Racefiend said (even though I'm one of those A/C pros he doesn't trust 
). It's take more than tools though. If you do convert to 134a do it right, no death kits like you have at work. Shame on your employer for even selling them.
). It's take more than tools though. If you do convert to 134a do it right, no death kits like you have at work. Shame on your employer for even selling them.
A good conversion will blow almost as cold as R12. A bad conversion will have you rolling your windows down when you're in stop and go traffic.
There's nothing wrong with those "death kits", other than them only giving you half of what you need (ie only the r134a, ester oil, and some fittings). To do a good job, pull the compressor and drain the oil, replace your receiver/drier, and replace your seals with HNBR seals.
Oh and don't take offense to my comment jetjock. It's just that I've caught so many "professionals" trying to burn me/friends, and actually getting burned a few times, that I've decided that if getting the equipment to do it myself falls within 2X the amount I'd pay someone else to do it, I'd rather do it myself.
Oh and don't take offense to my comment jetjock. It's just that I've caught so many "professionals" trying to burn me/friends, and actually getting burned a few times, that I've decided that if getting the equipment to do it myself falls within 2X the amount I'd pay someone else to do it, I'd rather do it myself.
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No offense taken my friend. I know there are a lot of folks in the car biz who'll screw others in a second and A/C shops are some of the worst. And I'm the last guy you'll get any argument from about learning to do stuff yourself.
As for the death kits, they're death kits when used as labled. Breaking them down into separate components and doing the job right is hardly fair. It's all about the oil after all. I'm not a big fan of venturi pumps but they I suppose they do the job well enough to get by.
Nice to see someone knows how to things right. I prefer to stick with 12 though. No doubt cuz I've got two 30 pounders in the garage
As for the death kits, they're death kits when used as labled. Breaking them down into separate components and doing the job right is hardly fair. It's all about the oil after all. I'm not a big fan of venturi pumps but they I suppose they do the job well enough to get by.
Nice to see someone knows how to things right. I prefer to stick with 12 though. No doubt cuz I've got two 30 pounders in the garage
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The reason R134 doesnt cool as well as R12 is that it doesnt maintain 1:1 pressure to temp ratio. R12 does. So by controlling the pressure exactly, we can control the temps exactly. New systems designed to work with R134 are just as cold.
One other problem is some "proffessionals" arent really proffessional. A good indicator is somebody trying to push a conversion on you saying there isnt any R12 left. There is. Someday there wont be.
I feel bad for some of you that really think you are better at maintenance than ASE certified proffessionals. 8 BHG's later, and you still arent the problem....
One other problem is some "proffessionals" arent really proffessional. A good indicator is somebody trying to push a conversion on you saying there isnt any R12 left. There is. Someday there wont be.
I feel bad for some of you that really think you are better at maintenance than ASE certified proffessionals. 8 BHG's later, and you still arent the problem....
Changing to R134 is not as big a problem as people make it out to be. I have converted over 30 cars to R134 in the last 10 years and no problems with them at all. In fact, I never changed the oil or seals unless it was leaking. Install R134 quick connect nipples, vacuum the system dry, and charge it with R134. Works like a champ.
I'm not saying everyone should do what I do, just what I personally have experienced.
btw... I am certified... :bigthumb:
btw... I am certified... :bigthumb:
Presumably the system is empty so there is nothing to reclaim. Otherwise, the simple advice would be to get a shop to reclaim it, then do the work yourself.
A nice new Robinair vac pump can be had for $250. Lots of them on Ebay.
I got my 609 cert for $20 after a read through of the study materials. LOL
A nice new Robinair vac pump can be had for $250. Lots of them on Ebay.
I got my 609 cert for $20 after a read through of the study materials. LOL
tubbie, shame on you. Give that $20 609 cert back . malloynx is right. You can get away with not changing O rings and lines (the oil will have sealed the old ones) but 134 is not miscible in mineral oil. It may take awhile but bad things will happen and when they do big money will be involved.
malloynx: I'm not suggesting the guy vent refrigerant into the air, only if he's going to convert he do it right. Not likely he has a recovery machine so he should take it to a shop to have the CFC-12 recovered first. Besides, every a/c tech worthy of the name owns a recovery machine, even the do it yourselfer. I own one. I'm 608 universal btw, not so easy to obtain as a 609.
. malloynx is right. You can get away with not changing O rings and lines (the oil will have sealed the old ones) but 134 is not miscible in mineral oil. It may take awhile but bad things will happen and when they do big money will be involved.malloynx: I'm not suggesting the guy vent refrigerant into the air, only if he's going to convert he do it right. Not likely he has a recovery machine so he should take it to a shop to have the CFC-12 recovered first. Besides, every a/c tech worthy of the name owns a recovery machine, even the do it yourselfer. I own one. I'm 608 universal btw, not so easy to obtain as a 609.
so.. in a proper conversion what should one do? just replace the seals and drain the compressor of oil?
There's right and there's right. Minimum, the oil should be drained and replaced, the reciever dryer changed, the system evaced, leak checked, and recharged with the correct amount of 134. Better would be to also flush the system, replace the O rings, and use barrier hose. Not many do that though. Some cars convert well, some don't. From what I hear the Soup does. I'd stay with R-12 if I were you because the system was designed for it but that's just me. No matter what stay away from alternates like Freeze 12. Cheap, but you'll pay later.
I know a good a/c guy back home. he let me kinda give him a hand, and he explained what he was doing, and all that. He converted my '84 supra's A/C system. He put a new Evap and Expansion valve in it, and put it running on R134. Mother of god was it cold. I had to turn it down sometimes. blew at 35 degrees F. He put it under vacuum for overnight. He's got the expensive true reclaim/vacuum equipment. but I don't wanna drive 2hrs back home to get it to him. so i'll search around tampa. but my experieces with shops in tampa are not exactly "great".