Ok just picked this car for $300. Car wouldn't rev past 4000k. So went through the ignition system, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still wouldn't go over 4. Figured out the woodruff key sheared itself. Got a new key and balancer, still wouldn't go past 4. So I reset timing on the cams and distributor. I set the ignition to 10 degrees BTDC, which I'm pretty sure is where it's supposed to be. The car will rev all the way up to redline now, but afterfires all throughout the band. I'm completely lost at this point because all the timing is good and I cant find any vacuum leaks. It isn't throwing any codes either so I'm stumped. If anyone can help me out here it would be greatly appreciated.
87 7M shooting fire. Please help
- Thread starter zokusha
- Start date
Turbo or N/A?
Fire suggests a rich fuel mixture. Rev problems sometimes suggest AFM trouble, but you seem to have that fixed. I honestly don't know if a bad AFM restricts air flow, or if it just sends bad signals to the ECU. If it were AFM, it should throw you a code though
Fire suggests a rich fuel mixture. Rev problems sometimes suggest AFM trouble, but you seem to have that fixed. I honestly don't know if a bad AFM restricts air flow, or if it just sends bad signals to the ECU. If it were AFM, it should throw you a code though
Yes its N/A. Have a brand new AFM, so that's not the issue. Checked all the resistance value and bench tested it and its fine. Could the tps be causing this issue?
Checked TPS and it all checks well. Replaced every single vacuum hose, and no change. Checked the cold start injector time switch and it read 75 ohms. The manual says it needs to be between 40-60. Could the high ohm reading be sending to much fuel into the system?
Also can anyone tell me what this wire is? It's yellow with a black tracer. It comes out of the end of the harness with the AFM connector, water temp sensor and oxygen sensor.
Also can anyone tell me what this wire is? It's yellow with a black tracer. It comes out of the end of the harness with the AFM connector, water temp sensor and oxygen sensor.
It's odd that it should be spitting fire on the over run because the injectors are supposed to shut off with no throttle input on engine deceleration. So imo it means something is telling the injectors to continue firing.
The cold start is only used on initial starting, if I'm correct. I don't think it continues to operate after the engine is started.
What exactly did you check with the TPS?
Also I wouldn't recommend free-revving a 7m to the limiter. You're just asking for rod knock. lol
The cold start is only used on initial starting, if I'm correct. I don't think it continues to operate after the engine is started.
What exactly did you check with the TPS?
Also I wouldn't recommend free-revving a 7m to the limiter. You're just asking for rod knock. lol
Exactly what MPR said... What did you do with the CPS? Did you adjust it or see if it's functioning properly. Here is a video that I hope helps you...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-smo0jp5bk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-smo0jp5bk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Tested the resistance with an Ohm meter like the Haynes manual say to. I can turn it back and forth and no change. I can even unplug it, it'll run rough for about 3-4 seconds and then it will run the same as if it was plugged in.MPR;1854621 said:
And the fire is not dependent on throttle. I've seen a few puffs at just idle.
Numba1Stuna;1854643 said:
I don't have a CPS. It's a GE not a GTE.
The exhaust behind the manifold is off the car fwiw (cat-back). The size of the flame varies from 2-3inches to about 8-9 inches.
Last edited:
Sorry, damn Swype autocorrect error... Knew that it had a distributer and was GE. Meant TPS, not CPS.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Like I said. I tested the resistance with an Ohm meter like the Haynes manual says to. All the values are what they should be. But I can turn it back and forth with hardly any change. I can even unplug it, it'll run rough for about 3-4 seconds and then it will run the same as if it was plugged in.
zokusha;1854647 said:
Yes you do. How do you think your tachometer works? Or injection and ignition timing? Do you think you have a carburetor with points? Oh, get a fire extinguisher. I have seen cars burn to the ground from the cat catching on fire.
Then where is it? No sarcasm intended. I genuinely thought I didnt have one. The cat and back are off until I figure this out, so I'm not to worried about the car catching. But I do have an extinguisher.Nick M;1857138 said:
1) It's inside the distributor.
2) Put the exhaust back on first, then repair the problem. Start by checking mixture using Ox and Vf.
3) Throw out the Haynes and buy a TRSM.
2) Put the exhaust back on first, then repair the problem. Start by checking mixture using Ox and Vf.
3) Throw out the Haynes and buy a TRSM.
zokusha;1857148 said:
I know. The information is passed, and that is that. The EWD will show you the same electrical portion of the CPS and distributor. The difference being spark output.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf