7mgtes and drifting: do they get along

[Toycoma]

Ok, my 7mge now has rod knock from doing this and bouncing it off the rev limiter. so now is the time to upgrade. a shop whats to give me a deal to run their name on the car and my friend that gets his stuff from their and is also sponsored from them wants me to put a 7mgte in the car. I know what needs to be done to make it work but I know some people on had problems drifting supras with 7mgtes and basicly ending up where I am right now. Plus I will be running this through my current W58 :cry: . I do not plan on turning up the boost. 190hp vs 235?hp is a big enough increase for now. I do plan on using a new cometic head gasket and the arp studs from my motor. but i am still worried about the bottom end. and i don't want to do wireing, i will be running the motor with the 7mge ecu and distributor. maybe put in a MSD 6AL and put the limiter at 6,000 instead of the factory 6250.

edit: if the majority do not think its a good idea to drift with a 7mgte.... a SR20det will most likely be going into the car then. that will be done by ma-motorsports.com

 

[WeDgE]

I'd consider a 1J before an SR20...

 

[Toycoma]

no. if i do a swap (anything other then a 7mgte that is), i want something lighter and I dont want to have to look for a R154 or ecu, or harness, or what ever else is needed. sr20det might be less hp then a 1jz but i am not really worried about that. it might also need a little more work to put it in the car like motor and trans mount and drive shaft but thats about it. both a 1jz and sr20 would need to be wired and all that other crap and a lot of the guys who have put 1jzs in their cressida have all had problems with the ct12s that came on them. soooo. anyway, this is all way off topic.
back to 7mgte for drifting.

 

[shaeff]

make sure the oiling system is up to par. if you get a good oiling system going, i'm sure it could be done with no ill-effects. when i had my oil pan off, i use a prybar to lower the oil pickup deeper into the pan, and i run 1 qt over at all times. i'm running an oil filter re-location kit to under the passenger side fog light, a B&M 180* oil thermostat, and an 11x8 B&M oil cooler.

i never see my pressure drop on a hard corner, although, i don't drift either. (unless you look at the link in my sig and call that drifting, haha). i think that with proper care taken toward the oiling system, that you'd have no problems.

-shaeff

 

[supra90turbo]

Run the oil @ +1qt. Religiously.
Relocate the filter using the NA filter stud and a thermostatically controlled oil cooler bypass valve on the return line, stock turbo with breathing mods should be fine and net about 10psi without boost controller.
Just keep an eye on it.

If you're worried about running low on oil, get a Moroso accumulator as a backup sort of safety device.

....shaeff beat me to almost all of this, and I'm just now reading it...
I'm gonna keep all of this in my post, however, to further solidify that it's a good idea.

 

[Toycoma]

Run the oil @ +1qt. Religiously.
Relocate the filter using the NA filter stud and a thermostatically controlled oil cooler bypass valve on the return line, stock turbo with breathing mods should be fine and net about 10psi without boost controller.
Just keep an eye on it.

If you're worried about running low on oil, get a Moroso accumulator as a backup sort of safety device.

....shaeff beat me to almost all of this, and I'm just now reading it...
I'm gonna keep all of this in my post, however, to further solidify that it's a good idea.

why the thermo control bypass valve? how do you hook that up?? its not one continous loop right??? would it be with out that? like, would you have one line go into the filter relocate, then come out of that and go into the oil cooler then out of that then back to the block???

 

[supra90turbo]

It goes inline with the return hose.
Below 180*f oil temp it will send the filtered oil straight to the pan. Above 180*f, it will send the hot, filtered oil through the cooler and then to the pan.

illustrated. please pardon my haggard mspaint crap... i just want to go to bed

 

[IJ.]

Kurt: Works much better if you run it as a full flow system and NOT as a Bypass Cooler

 

[MDCmotorsports]

3s engine if you do any thing other than a 7mgte or 1j swap. Also, you need a deep pan, dry sump, or deep pan with a windage tray to drift and make it live.

 

[Toycoma]

Kurt: Works much better if you run it as a full flow system and NOT as a Bypass Cooler

thats what i was thinking.

 

[Toycoma]

3s engine if you do any thing other than a 7mgte or 1j swap. Also, you need a deep pan, dry sump, or deep pan with a windage tray to drift and make it live.

3sgte take a lot of parts searching and crap. i need this done within a month. if this was something that was going to be done in the future just for the hell of it and I had time to find all the parts needed a 3gte would be the motor to do. and what do you mean a deep pan? I have to used the cressida's oil pan and it can't get any deeper then that or it will hit the ground.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

"i will be running the motor with the 7mge ecu and distributor."

y not find a front clip and pull the motor, tranny, ecu and harness out???

 

[Toycoma]

"i will be running the motor with the 7mge ecu and distributor."

y not find a front clip and pull the motor, tranny, ecu and harness out???

because i dont feel like wasting time and money on everything else to do a 7mgte. the only real reason I am even using a 7mgte motor is because of the lower compression, the high volume oil pump, and the turbo comes with it. All that other stuff isn't really needed to turbo a car. Plus I know a guy running the same set up on a stock 7mge ecu and it runs rich. so i can either turn up the boost a little or get a SAFC II and tune the motor some so it doesnt run so rich.