7MGTE rod knock repair..

[apsb21]

hello everyone,

I am new to the supramania, this is my first post so any seggestion on doin it right pls feel free to reply.

Goin to my question:
i am gettin a ROD KNOCK @ CONROD 5 to fix the problem I have to machine the crank. But I am just wondering if this is possible by keeping the engine in the car. Well I am thinking to replace the bearing temperorly and see if the compression is ok.. that will determine if i need to fully build the engine or partially. And also heard piston 3 and 5 tend to get rod knocks.

in conclusion, can you guys help me or direct me how to remove oil pan to proceed my work. beacause there is steering rack and trail arm in the way.
I just want to replace the rod bearing to test compression.
thanks

 

[Supracentral]

The SME (Subject Matter Expert) forums (where you originally posted this) are for when you need really expert advice. So my first suggestion would be to save posts in these areas for the really "tough" questions.

Your question is kind of generic and dozens of users could answer it. So I'm moving this to the 7M-GTE technical forum.

 

[grimreaper]

pull the motor, if the crank needs turned a fresh bearing is just "food" for it.


Ive never heard of specific cylinders getting rk over others, that tid bit must be from the "other" forum...

 

[tbcmorris]

If you need to machine the crank I sugest you remove the engine and do it. At minium, all new bearing for the mains caps, and conn. Rods, headgasket with proper prep, shim your oil pimp, front and rear main seals.

My other question for you is why did you get rod knock?

 

[Supracentral]

One thing to think about is why did the bearing go bad?
Where is the metal that was chewed up in the process?

In otherwords, regardless of what you do, the motor needs to come out, the block needs to be boiled out and you need to rebuild it.

Start by reading this:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

 

[apsb21]

Sorry guys i tried looking for my forum for couple of days i couldnt find it my self... noobie.. pls continue advise...

I am again askin same question, I need to confirm where the problem is first, with a stethoscope i am able to say its comin from piston 5, is it a rod knoc or wrist pin, i have no clue yet because i havn't pull the motor yet, If I can dertermine what aand where the problem is i can either build the whole engine or partiably build it.. eg if it is a just a ROd knock that means either machine the crank or put a new in, caps and bearings and studs.
this way i dont have to remove the head and save money on the gasket i put on couple hundereds on. If it a wrist pin then I am bound to build the whole engine, there is no other way. So my specific question is

Is there a way to remove the pan while the engine is in the car??

Also I want to THANKS Adminstr to sort things out for me, i was looking for my forum and didnt know where i posted it originally.. thanks once again.
Also the noise came when i was just havin fun with my buddies doing engine breakin and downshifting. I guess at one point I missed the Revmatch. When i bout the car the guy said he replaced the head gasket, at that point i didnt know what could happen, but i changed all the oils on the car. all synthetic as well.. maybe re ran the car with some coolant left in the engine.
thank all for ur answers. pls keep replying it just helps me learn. and help me open that oil pan first.

 

[super.secret.supra.club]

just so you know, the 7m out of the factory was very weak when it came to having a BHG (blown head gasket). the head bolts where under torqued using a graphite material. now a days we have metal head gaskets and arp blot which will handle more torque. down cheap out and "try to save the head". its going to blow sooner or later. best do it now while the motor is out.

save yourself tons of labor time. GL.

ed.d.