7MGTE Removal?

[faviles]

Hey guys,

I'm contemplating whether to switch out my old 7MGTE engine for one with a lot less mileage on it. The stock engine has 130k on it and the previous owner stated it ran with low oil before. From what I've researched this is a good way to develop rod knock.

So the big question is, is there a thread anywhere showing how to remove just the engine to replace it with an exact same one? The transmission will remain the same as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Silver MK3]

This may help.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?423-7M-GTE-Engine-removal-in-49-easy-steps.

 

[mkt]

Removing motor is easy, most people are going to tell u to just get the motor u have now rebuilt. Reason being is that it will be all new and u know what u have in it or what's been really done.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Do you have any kind of budget to freshen up this lower mileage 7m you plan on swapping in?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Replacing a known motor with an unknown one is a bad idea. Before you put another engine in the car, have it rebuilt (or rebuild it yourself).

 

[faviles]

Well I do not plan on getting too much power out of the motor. Just simple things like an exhaust, downpipe, and intake is all I will be doing which is why I'm not trying to put in work on the engine to bulk it up. Looking to hit just under 300whp and call it a day.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

At least do a leakdown test on the newer engine. Pop the pan off, remove rod and main caps and inspect the bearings and clearances. Check and adjust valve lash while engine is out. Install front and rear main seals. Install new water pump, and timing belt. Check to see if oil pump clearances check out. New composite head gasket with bolts torqued to 72ft/lb. Replace those pain in the ass hoses that are at the back of the engine while they're out. Not asking you to do a full forged internal build. Just go through it with a fine tooth comb if anything.
I've know plenty of people that swap in a supposedly better engine in only to find out that it was junk, worn, smoking, knocking, tapping, screeching... you name it.

I just went to rockauto.com and searched for some parts to replace while you have your spare 7m on the stand.
Gates thermostat 195*
Beck/Arnley front main seal
Felpro rear main seal set includes gaskets
Felpro valve stem seals
Victor Reinz nitroseal composite headgasket
Beck/Arnley camshaft seals
Gates waterpump w/gaskets
Gates timing belt component kit (1 belt & 1 tensioner)
Victor Reinz timing cover gasket set

All for $217.55 to my door.
Jegs has comp cams BBC inner springs for $64 for two sets. An upgrade from the stock worn springs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/975-12/10002/-1

So for under $300 you'll have piece of mind that these minor things won't force you to pull the engine back out to fix. Assuming the spare 7m bottom end checks out fine you're good to go. Don't go off buying parts before checking out that bottom!

 

[Silver MK3]

At least do a leakdown test on the newer engine. Pop the pan off, remove rod and main caps and inspect the bearings and clearances. Check and adjust valve lash while engine is out. Install front and rear main seals. Install new water pump, and timing belt. Check to see if oil pump clearances check out. New composite head gasket with bolts torqued to 72ft/lb. Replace those pain in the ass hoses that are at the back of the engine while they're out. Not asking you to do a full forged internal build. Just go through it with a fine tooth comb if anything.
I've know plenty of people that swap in a supposedly better engine in only to find out that it was junk, worn, smoking, knocking, tapping, screeching... you name it.

I just went to rockauto.com and searched for some parts to replace while you have your spare 7m on the stand.
Gates thermostat 195*
Beck/Arnley front main seal
Felpro rear main seal set includes gaskets
Felpro valve stem seals
Victor Reinz nitroseal composite headgasket
Beck/Arnley camshaft seals
Gates waterpump w/gaskets
Gates timing belt component kit (1 belt & 1 tensioner)
Victor Reinz timing cover gasket set

All for $217.55 to my door.
Jegs has comp cams BBC inner springs for $64 for two sets. An upgrade from the stock worn springs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/975-12/10002/-1

So for under $300 you'll have piece of mind that these minor things won't force you to pull the engine back out to fix. Assuming the spare 7m bottom end checks out fine you're good to go. Don't go off buying parts before checking out that bottom!

This is a good list. I would do exactly this. If the bottom end looks good and you do everything he has listed here you should have a nice worry free motor for a long time.

 

[7M4EVR]

Yep, what they said...if you have this motor already why not just build this one on the side? If I had a spare laying around I would build the living hell out of it so when the motor you have in there now goes you have a solid one to throw in.

Hey guys, So the big question is, is there a thread anywhere showing how to remove just the engine to replace it with an exact same one? The transmission will remain the same as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Sure, just video yourself taking the motor out then play it in reverse when you go to put the new one in.:icon_bigg

 

[suprafreak123]

Hey guys,

I'm contemplating whether to switch out my old 7MGTE engine for one with a lot less mileage on it. The stock engine has 130k on it and the previous owner stated it ran with low oil before. From what I've researched this is a good way to develop rod knock.

So the big question is, is there a thread anywhere showing how to remove just the engine to replace it with an exact same one? The transmission will remain the same as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey bro if have some knowledge do it yourself and spend time reading the TSRM manual try not to do much stuff at the shop all they do is get you in and get you out fast, because the longer your car is there the longer they loose money.Remove the whole tranny and the engine.Im currently parking my car and my goal is a 700 hp car i"m going to try to build it myself and with the help of everyone here.

 

[faviles]

Thanks so much for all this amazing info guys! Especially Suprapowaz, I will definitely be purchasing the items on that list once I get the bottom checked out. Not really block smart with all the bearings and pistons, but I'm sure my uncle (who is a mechanic) could help me out with that. What exactly would I have to be looking for under there besides the clearances? All the specs should be within the TSRM correct?

Once again thanks, I really appreciate all the detail and learning I'm recieving from this forum. I was very unfamiliar with this engine the day I bought the car and with the help of all the members it's easy to understand what's up.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Glad to help in any way I can. Tell your uncle you'd like to do a leakdown test on the engine. Then take a look at the bearings. You can go to youtube and find countless vids on how to use plastigage. Easy to do. This is what to look for when checking wear patterns. If you have any question on the condition of the bearings post pics here.
http://www.agkits.com/bearing-failure-analysis.aspx

EDIT: I guess there's no real reason to plastigage an engine unless you're installing new bearings. I guess just check the condition of them, and that should be fine.

This will be helpful too.
http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/

 

[faviles]

Gotcha! So if the bearings look worn out, replace them correct? Would I have to replace something else? Replacement of the bearings does not look too difficult!

How exactly do all these members "blow" their engines? I feel like everytime I'm on here someone else is parting out their engine because of this. Could it possibly all the power being put into the engine? I plan on taking good care of mine after rebuilding it such as changing oil, air filter, and all maintenance on time. I just don't want to put to much work on an engine that will end up breaking. As I said, just under 300whp would be enough speed for me! Haha

 

[Grandavi]

Just so you realize... 300 rwhp is going to be adding 1/2 times the regular HP on top. (normally, its 192-220 rwhp at the wheels... I give the range because I am not 100% sure of the correct number). You have a 25 year old engine and add more stress than it was originally built for and you start entering the realm of the "whiner". That's the one who will later say that the 7m sucks.
If you are at the point of actually being able to see the bearings and you really like the car... I would recommend a full rebuild at that point and doing the head/block properly for a metal headgasket with ARP head studs. A properly built 7M with a metal headgasket will hold up to about 600 HP at the crank with just OEM parts really. They are torque monkey powerplants...

By building an engine for 600-700 HP (which is what I did) and then running at 300-400 rwhp, your using the engine to a decent power level without severely stressing it and will be a lot happier. The ARP head studs and Metal headgasket with a properly prepped block and head will pretty well get rid of any headgasket worries. Its why the 1j/2j engines come from factory with metal headgaskets. Its the one upgrade I would do over all the others.

Although it looks like its a bigger expense (and it is), it is definitely worth it if you plan on keeping the car long term. With the block out of the car it isn't a difficult thing to achieve at all...

take note.. I am not a mechanic... I am going solely by my personal experience with the 7M. I paid someone to build my engine and am two weeks away from seeing how close to 500 rwhp I get out of it. It was definitely not cheap, but I never plan on selling the car.