7mge - T (how to make a real 7mgte)

[suprra_girl]

well... this one is a wee bit out of my depth as i've not had experience with na-t's

i believe the person has put in a 7mgte but has used his 7mge manifold and intake & afm & ecu etc
I imagine he is using the gte fuel rail & injectors

how do i make it a real 7mgte, with proper gte electronics?

it's an 87 (yellow plug)

the stuff i have available is:

grey plug ecu + harness
cps
afm
intake
3000 pipe
coils & leads
intake manifold

anything i've forgotten?

what do i need to do to wire in grey plug?

appreciate any info

 

[rakkasan]

well... this one is a wee bit out of my depth as i've not had experience with na-t's

i believe the person has put in a 7mgte but has used his 7mge manifold and intake & afm & ecu etc
I imagine he is using the gte fuel rail & injectors

how do i make it a real 7mgte, with proper gte electronics?

it's an 87 (yellow plug)

the stuff i have available is:

grey plug ecu + harness
cps
afm
intake
3000 pipe
coils & leads
intake manifold

anything i've forgotten?

what do i need to do to wire in grey plug?

appreciate any info

If I'm not mistaken, the oil filter housing would have to be swapped. The oil pan too. You would have to make some sort of provision for the additional knock sensor (either mod the gte ECU & harness for one KS or tap the second into the GE block).

 

[suprra_girl]

i believe he is using a gte block, just ge electronics & manifold (just assumption tho)

i guess he needs an oil cooler too if he hasn't got one already

thanks for the suggestions

 

[PorterzSupra]

I just did a NA-T in my car. I swaped my turbo car and turbo motor with a N/A block let me tell you guys something. The turbo block is lower compression and the cams are different, stock for stock there is about a 50 HP difference between the 2 based on the motor alone (no turbo) the NA has alot more power. I have a NA-T running a T66 and the car SERIOUSLY moves at 9 PSI!!!!!! im getting sideways in 3rd and 4th when the turbo comes in!! Before the turbo even kicks in I have the 200 HP NA ponies to bring the revs up quick to spool the turbo.

Anyway yea if u have any questions I just got mine done this week. Is your car a N/A body and computer? If so your gonna need ALOT of parts you would save money getting a junk turbo motor from a junkyard cheap and take...

Distributor
Engine damper
Oil filter adaptor
turbo and turbo oil lines/coolant lines
Injectors / rail
Plugs/wires
Coil packs
Exhaust manifold
A/F meter
Intake manifold
computer
valve covers
throttle body
Front coolant elbow/coolant temp sensors
throttle linkage
Knock sensor rewire in harness splice the wires together and hook them up to the one in the NA (I did works fine) or drill out a second hole for another knock sensor

Im sure I forgot some stuff but u get the idea, basically u need a complete junk turbo motor its not as simple as u might think.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

I just did a NA-T in my car. I swaped my turbo car and turbo motor with a N/A block let me tell you guys something. The turbo block is lower compression and the cams are different, stock for stock there is about a 50 HP difference between the 2 based on the motor alone (no turbo) the NA has alot more power. I have a NA-T running a T66 and the car SERIOUSLY moves at 9 PSI!!!!!! im getting sideways in 3rd and 4th when the turbo comes in!! Before the turbo even kicks in I have the 200 HP NA ponies to bring the revs up quick to spool the turbo.

Higher compression will do that :icon_bigg watch that detonation :evil2:

 

[PorterzSupra]

Yea I got a knock meter, no knock yet =)

 

[Fuzz420]

I just did a NA-T in my car. I swaped my turbo car and turbo motor with a N/A block let me tell you guys something. The turbo block is lower compression and the cams are different, stock for stock there is about a 50 HP difference between the 2 based on the motor alone (no turbo) the NA has alot more power. I have a NA-T running a T66 and the car SERIOUSLY moves at 9 PSI!!!!!! im getting sideways in 3rd and 4th when the turbo comes in!! Before the turbo even kicks in I have the 200 HP NA ponies to bring the revs up quick to spool the turbo.

Anyway yea if u have any questions I just got mine done this week. Is your car a N/A body and computer? If so your gonna need ALOT of parts you would save money getting a junk turbo motor from a junkyard cheap and take...

Distributor
Engine damper
Oil filter adaptor
turbo and turbo oil lines/coolant lines
Injectors / rail
Plugs/wires
Coil packs
Exhaust manifold
A/F meter
Intake manifold
computer
valve covers
throttle body
Front coolant elbow/coolant temp sensors
throttle linkage
Knock sensor rewire in harness splice the wires together and hook them up to the one in the NA (I did works fine) or drill out a second hole for another knock sensor

Im sure I forgot some stuff but u get the idea, basically u need a complete junk turbo motor its not as simple as u might think.

so u have t-66 on a na block using turbo electronics.:naughty:

That gives me hope i was just wanting to run a stock ct.Are you running anykind of piggy back on top of the turbo ecu. Also have u been to a dyno and would u have a sheet.

 

[PorterzSupra]

Just got the car running a few days ago, I ran the car without any piggy back to see how things went before switching to a MAFT. The car ran extreamly fast at 9PSI with the T66 on stock computer. I was VERY shocked, I will get a dyno sheet once I get my tune and have the MAFT setup but im guessing AT LEST 450 at the wheels running without a tune or anything at 9 PSI, I use to have a hoped up 97 Mustang Cobra with all the mods (305 HP stock) and the way my car is running now with no tune would make it look like a honda civic! It keeps your pinned in the seat very firmly and when I bang second the car powerslides for at least 5 seconds, also its very difficult to maintain a burn out because the turbo spools up and no matter how easy your on the gas the turbo keeps it bouncing off the rev limiter basicaly its like driving on ice when the turbo spools up when your in a burnout. I will get you guys a video and dyno run within the next few weeks

 

[tubbie]

Back on topic....................

If you already have all those parts, just replace the distributor with the cps, replace coil with ignitor, mount gte coilpacks, replace afm with turbo afm, replace entire harness with gte harness, add a knock sensor, and your good to go.....

Your grey harness, is it the early 89 or is it the 89.5+? If it is the early 89, should plug right in.

Here's my engine....

 

[suprra_girl]

awesome thanks for that tubbie...

so basically my list is everything i need to replace the 7mge parts, so it shouldn't be too hard, i have an 89 early and a 90

i notice that some 90 + grey plugs won't even plug into the glovebox area, why did they change it dammit LOL

so will the original plug to the coil just plug straight into the ignitor or do i need to do some rewiring there?

Thanks