Hi everyone,
My 7MGE-into-4Runner swap is about 99% complete. I've had the pleasure of driving it around for the past week. My current problem is the Idle. At first it was extremely high. We figured out that it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). After replacing the IACV, Cleaning the throttle body, adjusting TPS, and ensuring that there isn't a vacuum leak (although, I thought that that would cause a High idle...), the motor now barely stays running when starting it. Even after a 60 mile adventure to pull my friend out of the snow last night, when I came to a stop she died. The idle is reading below 500rpm. I believe that it's supposed to be closer to 750/800 range? After sitting all night (block-heater plugged in..) I have to keep my foot on the gas to start/keep it running. It takes about ten minutes of driving before I can sit at a stop-light without it dying... But like I stated above, that's not always the case. The computer is only telling me about my Lack-of Sub-O2 sensor. I have a California Emissions computer... I've been told multiple times that that shouldn't be affecting anything performance-wise. Is that correct? What should I be looking for? What about the cold start switch? But shouldn't that be negated after 10 minutes of driving?
Thanks,
Greg
My 7MGE-into-4Runner swap is about 99% complete. I've had the pleasure of driving it around for the past week. My current problem is the Idle. At first it was extremely high. We figured out that it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). After replacing the IACV, Cleaning the throttle body, adjusting TPS, and ensuring that there isn't a vacuum leak (although, I thought that that would cause a High idle...), the motor now barely stays running when starting it. Even after a 60 mile adventure to pull my friend out of the snow last night, when I came to a stop she died. The idle is reading below 500rpm. I believe that it's supposed to be closer to 750/800 range? After sitting all night (block-heater plugged in..) I have to keep my foot on the gas to start/keep it running. It takes about ten minutes of driving before I can sit at a stop-light without it dying... But like I stated above, that's not always the case. The computer is only telling me about my Lack-of Sub-O2 sensor. I have a California Emissions computer... I've been told multiple times that that shouldn't be affecting anything performance-wise. Is that correct? What should I be looking for? What about the cold start switch? But shouldn't that be negated after 10 minutes of driving?
Thanks,
Greg