7M bearing size confusion!

Backlash2032

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I am lost as to selecting bearing sizes for Toyota select fit. I had the machine shop measure all the journal sizes, but I don't know how to figure out what size of bearing I need.

for example, Con. rod 1 = 2.1669, which is a 3 in the TSRM. Rod journal 1 is 2.0468 which is - in the TSRM. So does that mean I go with a no. 3 bearing??
Con. rod 2 = 2.1672, which is a - in the TSRM. Rod journal 2 is 2.0569, which is also a -.

If somebody knowledgeable could point me in the correct direction, I would be very thankful.

also, heres a list of all the sizes..

Connecting rod
1 2.1669
2 2.1672
3 2.1669
4 2.1671
5 2.1670
6 2.1672

Main Bearing
1 2.5212
2 2.5209
3 2.5207
4 2.5207
5 2.5212
6 2.5215
7 2.5211

Rod journal
1 2.0468
2 2.0469
3 2.0468
4 2.0469
5 2.0469
6 2.0469

Main Journal
1 2.3620
2 2.3620
3 2.3621
4 2.3620
5 2.3621
6 2.3617
7 2.3620
 
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hvyman

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If the crank has been machined in anyway most likely the select fit bearings are not going to work.

There are number on the block crank and rods for the Toyota select fit bearings and to find out which beating to use you have to match up the numbers for that cylinder. Its in the tsrm.

Easier just to use clevites.
 

hvyman

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There are Only 3 possible number for the rod and crank.

Could have the crank machines for the .25Mm over bearings and make them all the same.
 

Backlash2032

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I'm tired of waiting for machine work to be done, and the shop would probably charge me the difference in cost between a set of clevites and a set of toyota bearings. So I'm just going with toyota bearings.

So should I just choose the closest one? Some of them are only .0001 or .0002 off

And uhh.. I'm looking at the rod journals.. They're all too big. wtf. Keep in mind, this engine was from toyota, never been rebuilt.. It had select fit bearings when I opened it up. They were all number 3 iirc.

Double edit.. Typo fail. I accidentally punched in a few of the rod journals as 2.5xxx instead of 2.4xxx. They're still too large though. But only slightly now lol
 
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CyFi6

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I would question how accurate those measurements are if you are getting numbers larger than those in the TSRM for the crank pins. If your rod big ends are bigger than spec they need to be resized, and if the main bearing bores in the block are bigger than spec, then it needs to be line honed. I would check out why you are getting numbers higher than spec for the crank pins before you do any machining though.
 

Backlash2032

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Okay, I think I have it figured out. I feel really stupid right now.. The chart was just confusing me for some odd reason. I'll figure out the bearing sizes and post em up soon.
 

Backlash2032

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Connecting rods
1 #4 bearing
2 (Rod was 2.1672, but the #3 only goes to 2.1671.. So I used that..) #4 bearing
3 #4 bearing
4 #4 bearing (I'm starting to see a trend..)
5 #4 bearing
6 (again, rod was 2.1672, but I just went with #3, as its only .0001 off..) #4 bearing

Main journals

1 #5 bearing
2 #4 bearing
3 #3 bearing
4 #3 bearing
5 #5 bearing
6 This one is confusing me. It fits in the chart perfectly as a US .25.. So what bearing do I get?
7 # 5

Anyone care to double check my work?
 

Backlash2032

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I only see 2 sets of part numbers for 1,2,3,4, and 5 in the EPC though.. PN is 11071-43010-(bearing size) or 110701-43010-(bearing size)

Edit: I assume the difference in PN is for 6M vs. 7M crank?
 

hvyman

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I believe one is for top and one is for bottom.

6m and 7m cranks both use the same cranks. You can see that in the other car applications part below the prices.
 

Backlash2032

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It looks like its pointing to the top and bottom in the blown apart picture with the same part number.

And where do I get the oversize bearing?
 

hvyman

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Ya but the one blown apart is not the actual part numbers. And iirc you can buy each half of the bearing seperatly.

Best to call or try pming Jeff Lange. If its 20$ a half that's a lot more expensive then having the crank cut for clevites.
 

Backlash2032

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hvyman;1822525 said:
Ya but the one blown apart is not the actual part numbers. And iirc you can buy each half of the bearing seperatly.

Best to call or try pming Jeff Lange. If its 20$ a half that's a lot more expensive then having the crank cut for clevites.

Exactly my thoughts.. I thought it would be a total of 300, with thrust washers.. Which would probably be about the same as clevites + having the crank cut. If its per half.. then its close to 600 for bearings. NOT doing that.
 

CyFi6

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hvyman I am not sure why you are insisting that he use Clevites or why you are telling him to use an undersize bearing? Undersize bearing will only be required if you are cutting the crank, and in that case, you are better off using an aftermarket bearing, as you will already be doing machine work anyways. There is nothing wrong with using OEM bearings, I am using them in my build right now, and used them in my last. I will take a closer look at your numbers later, but if you have measurements outside of the normal range, you either need machine work or you need to make sure your measurements are accurate.

The front main bearing is different, it is wider and it has the alignment tang on the opposide side in comparison to the other mains, that is why you have different part numbers there. The bearings come in boxes of two halves meaning order one bearing and you get an upper and lower shell.
 

hvyman

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The .25 bearing measurements are for under sized bearings.

Not saying to use one or the other. Either are good.
 

CyFi6

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hvyman;1822531 said:
The .25 bearing measurements are for under sized bearings.

Not saying to use one or the other. Either are good.
Oh I see what you were saying, you were just telling him what it was, it thought you were telling him to use the .25mm bearing. My bad.
 

Backlash2032

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CyFi6;1822529 said:
hvyman I am not sure why you are insisting that he use Clevites or why you are telling him to use an undersize bearing? Undersize bearing will only be required if you are cutting the crank, and in that case, you are better off using an aftermarket bearing, as you will already be doing machine work anyways. There is nothing wrong with using OEM bearings, I am using them in my build right now, and used them in my last. I will take a closer look at your numbers later, but if you have measurements outside of the normal range, you either need machine work or you need to make sure your measurements are accurate.

The front main bearing is different, it is wider and it has the alignment tang on the opposide side in comparison to the other mains, that is why you have different part numbers there. The bearings come in boxes of two halves meaning order one bearing and you get an upper and lower shell.

Thank you! That is exactly the answer I was looking for. Since they come in sets of two, I'll probably end up getting the Toyota bearings. I will also take the rods that are in question to another shop and have him measure them up.

And where do I get the oversize bearing? I don't see it in the EPC. Sorry for asking all these questions, I just don't want my shit blowing up lol