5w-50?

ggeiss240sx

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Nov 8, 2005
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Someone told me that 5w-50 would be good for my motor cuz its a turbo motor and runs hotter than normal engines. So today I got some Syntec 5w-50(full synthetic) to put it the 7m. Was this a bad idea? I was later told that 50 weight would be too thick for normal driving conditions and it was "race car" oil. Any help? Searched "oil weight" but couldnt come up with any specific to 5w-50. Thanks much!

-Gary
 

Supra5MGTE

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Nov 11, 2005
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Or you could try 15W-50 Mobil 1 which is real synthetic oil, you probly bought Castrol 5w-50 which is highly altered dino oil. Mobil 1 sued them, but they won. I don't use Castrol oil. I'm a fan of Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline and royoal purple. whatever is cheap I buy.. usually Mobil 1.
 

suprageezer

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Aug 27, 2005
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I might be wrong but all synthetic oil is dino oil. The term Synthetic comes into use when they heat the regular oil up to very high temperatures and cause the impurities to coke, that black hard as diamond material that makes your oil black after hard use. They do this so the coking doesn’t happen in your engine at normal operating temperatures. The extra heating and filtering is what the additional cost is for. After they filter it they add their special blends of oil soluble additives such as zinc, liquid moly, and phosphorus. I myself use nothing but straight 40wt. Castrol, I live in So Cal, I have in everything I have ever owned, the engine life I get as a result is good enough for me.

Rick
 

MDCmotorsports

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Rick:

You are correct... to a point.

Mobil one uses the least amount of "dyno stock" to build thier oil. Some of thier new synthetic uses a synthetic stock to build off of.

Some of the aftermarket companies use 100% synthetic stock. Power plus I know blends all of his oils by hand.
 

dav_dman

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Oct 23, 2005
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Castrol uses hydrocracked base stock. Mobil and Amsoil are PAO based (poly alpha olefin) which is derived from linear alpha olefins (LAO). So the Castrol is oil based, but the others aren't. Additives and VI are important.

I had trouble with mobil 1 15-20yrs ago when it first came out because they did not add enough seal swell additive and seals shrank and the damn stuff leak all over the place. We swore it off. Have used Amsoil since then...and Castrol. As often as we change oil, I figure whatever is cheapest synthetic or highly refined such as castrol but NOT blended with group 2or3 regular oil (synblends). Still afraid of mobil...might be okay now tho'. 5w is important for tight bearing tolerances. I'd stick with amsoil but its a pain to buy over the net and keep in stock.

Plus i have wally world change my oil and i already bring in the toy filter.. dont wanna bring my oil so i wish they handled amsoil. Amsoil marketing needs to change with the times, imo and go thru normal dist channels. They'd sell a ton in wally world cuz my nascar engineer aquaintance says all of nascar uses amsoil no matter what sticker you see on the hood..
 

stratoayu

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May 13, 2005
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5w-50 synthetic was run in my car for years... but when i would push the car hard, it would get realllly thin and my car would start pushing blue smoke... kinda scared me, but i didnt have any problems with it other then that.. im running valvoline 10w30 now and i have more oil pressure annd i havent pushed any smoke...
 

americanjebus

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Mar 30, 2005
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dav_dman said:
I had trouble with mobil 1 15-20yrs ago when it first came out because they did not add enough seal swell additive and seals shrank and the damn stuff leak all over the place. We swore it off. Have used Amsoil since then...and Castrol. As often as we change oil, I figure whatever is cheapest synthetic or highly refined such as castrol but NOT blended with group 2or3 regular oil (synblends). Still afraid of mobil...might be okay now tho'. 5w is important for tight bearing tolerances. I'd stick with amsoil but its a pain to buy over the net and keep in stock.
.


THATS WHY MY DAD HATES MOBIL 1, when i switched over to mobil this summer my dad gave me SOOOOO much crap about synthetic oil being the devil and how it "ruined gaskets" when he was younger say, about 15-20 years ago. been using 10w40 since spring this year and he still try's to drive me away from mobil 1. i just keep telling him that yes, it is possible for the oil industry to make improvements after 20 years of being in the oil bussiness, if it was that bad it wouldnt be the standard required oil for porsche, mercedes, the corvette, and the dodge viper.
 

malloynx

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actually i'm studying oil in school right now..

AMSOIL and MOBILE1 are the only true Synthetics.

also going to high of weight is not a good idea. you use more HP and you can erode the bearings. use what toyota reccommends and you'll be fine
 

malloynx

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btw.... the "w" in oil stands for winter and not weight. the first number is the viscoisty for cold and the other number is for the hot operating temp.

my opinion is that a 50 viscosity is too high and it's going to cause permature wear. esepecially in the winter time
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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You may be very right on that point, It would be nice to see some more info in this area.

This is what Toyota recommends:
p106717_1.jpg


Some of the 50 weights are in there. However 5w-50 isn't It might be a little on the thin side. Probably not a big deal ggeiss240sx, but at the next oil change pick a different oil. I'm running Mobil 1 extended performance 15w-50. works pretty good for me. But you may want to take malloynx's advice and run something a little less thick in the top end, at least during winter.
 

malloynx

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Mar 30, 2005
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yea i'm learing tons of good info in school right now. and too thick of an oil or too much pressure is not always a good thing.
 

Nick M

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btw.... the "w" in oil stands for winter and not weight. the first number is the viscoisty for cold and the other number is for the hot operating temp.

my opinion is that a 50 viscosity is too high and it's going to cause permature wear. esepecially in the winter time
Good to hear you are getting correct info. Im actually tired of repeating myself at times.
 

ToyoHabu

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Jun 25, 2005
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Quote from web site so it must be true :icon_wink "Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.

Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle." So I would be wary of 5W50 oils

http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html#OILFACTS_004
 

ggeiss240sx

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Nov 8, 2005
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BTW, i knew that the "w" stands for winter. But I was told that it acts like a 5 weight at cold temps and acts like a 50 weight at hot temps(also know now that this isnt the case). Well I guess I cant say this thread helped me at all since its about 50/50 on whether its good or bad for my car. Oh well think Ill just go exchange it for a 5w-30 or sumthin just to be safe. I was told 5w-50 is for performance engines by a few people so I thought it might be good for a car that wasnt driven the same as your average driver would. Anyways thanks much anyways!

-Gary
 

mrnickleye

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Jun 8, 2005
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What he said ^^^^ 5w-50...too much index spread. My friend's dad was an engineer, in charge of jet engine development at Northrop (you know...B-2's and such) out here at Edwards AFB (you know, "The Right Stuff" movie). He started being an Amsoil dealer back when it began. I won't bore you with all that I've learned from him, but you can't go wrong with Amsoil.