550CC Injecotrs w Stock AFM

[Deathseeker31]

I got my car running last week and have come into some electrical problems. I am currently getting three codes. My first code is code 41 which is the TPS wiring, the second code is code 51 which i believe deals with the TPS or A/C system, and code 52 which is knock sensors or the wiring.
I need help with two things. my first question is the code 52:
i purchased a knock sensor rewire kit from shaeff back when i purchased the vehicle and the code back then went away. since then it has come back and i check the wiring and knock sensors everything equals out. I am not sure what that problem could be. Has anybody heard of this? could it really be the ECU???? the re wire is grounded down under the glove compartment on a bolt. is there another place i should ground it????

The second thing i need help with is when i go and disconnect each spark plug from the coil they are all getting spark and the motor acts like it is going to die everytime i do it. except for when i disconnect plug number 2. The idle goes up a little bit but apart from that there isn't much different on the way the motor runs. What could cause this??? could it be a clogged injector??? The head is freshly rebuilt and so is the bottom end.... could it be the wiring??? should i pull the injectors and flow test them??? they are stock injectors. which leads me to the title of this thread. I have a set of 550cc RC injectors i purchased a few months ago. could i run these injectors without upgrading my AFM? i do not have a piggyback or an FRP. would this be wise to do? I know that it will run on the rich side but would i run the risk of flooding the motor? i spent a few days searching but i could not really find anything in regards to the matter. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

Here are my current mods:
.20 over JE pistons
2.00 MM Cometic HG
fresh motor doesn't even have 20 miles on it.
AEM wideband
DDP
3inch exhaust
intake

thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Quin]

Pull fuel out with a MAFT-Pro, SAFC, etc. Use the wideband to figure out exactly how much. You'll run very rich all the time if you don't do that.

 

[Deathseeker31]

what would cause the motor to do what is doing???? My mechanic told me it could be a dead piston.... what are the chances of that occurring on a fresh motor?

 

[Nick M]

Well, if you have no change during a power balance test, that is what it is called, you have a dead cylinder.

How do you know you are getting a signal from the knock sensor? Put a scope on it?

 

[Deathseeker31]

I checked the knock sensors by putting an ohm meter on the sensors and tapping the block to see if they gave out any readings.... i read this per the tsrm but i can't find the page where it is at. currently looking for it.

Now in respect to having a dead cylinder. what would be the ways to fix it?

thanks for the help

 

[Nick M]

I checked the knock sensors by putting an ohm meter on the sensors and tapping the block to see if they gave out any readings.... i read this per the tsrm but i can't find the page where it is at. currently looking for it.

Now in respect to having a dead cylinder. what would be the ways to fix it?

thanks for the help

You need to do a leak down test to find out what is wrong. Or swap injectors. And swap a coil.

Or pull the plugs and look at it. Check the wire for arcing. etc etc...

What you are looking for with the knock sensor is frequency. Check the autoshop pages to see if you need to look at amplitude. Skip the ohm test.

 

[Deathseeker31]

what kind of frequency am i looking for in the knock sensor specifically?

I wont have access to work on my car until Saturday so i will go ahead and do a compression test and a leak down. I will also go ahead and swap injectors to see if that is would be the problem. Thanks for the help Nick and i will come back post my results.

 

[SURUKO]

please forgive me for what im going to say did you change your plugs with the new rebuild??

 

[Nick M]

what kind of frequency am i looking for in the knock sensor specifically?

I wont have access to work on my car until Saturday so i will go ahead and do a compression test and a leak down. I will also go ahead and swap injectors to see if that is would be the problem. Thanks for the help Nick and i will come back post my results.

How about we keep it simple. 52 means there is no signal to the ECU. You can put a meter on Hz, but a scope is better. Last time I priced one, they were about 3500. You can backprobe or pierce the wire with somthing very sharp. With the engine off, tap the block. See if there is an output of any sort.

 

[Deathseeker31]

please forgive me for what im going to say did you change your plugs with the new rebuild??

lol i know i sound like i don't know much but yes sir i did wires are brand new ngk wires and the plugs are just your basic copper plugs.

 

[figgie]

How about we keep it simple. 52 means there is no signal to the ECU. You can put a meter on Hz, but a scope is better. Last time I priced one, they were about 3500. You can backprobe or pierce the wire with somthing very sharp. With the engine off, tap the block. See if there is an output of any sort.

On ebay you can find them cheap... and with all the companies going under. Look at electronic auction sites (Ubid).

Now if you are tlaking about the knock sensor.

For 3500, are they by chance made out of gold??

 

[Nick M]

I had asked the tool peddler about a DSO from Fluke. That was 8 years ago. They should be cheaper now.

 

[Deathseeker31]

alright so I am reporting back from working on the car all day today. Here are my findings:
I need a TPS that i already ordered and will be receiving by Monday hopefully, I am gonna need help calibrating it, nothing that a good search cant help me with.
The dead cylinder was a cracked spark plug, it was not delivering any spark to the cylinder, that was fixed when i got a new one.

Now for the knock sensors, i went ahead and triple checked the wiring and to make sure that is was grounded down properly as it was. The code went away for a while, but it came back a little bit later. I reset the comp and check to make sure the connectors were on properly and the code has not come back yet, hopefully it does not come back at all.

Now for a few more things that hopefully someone can help me out with. Is it normal on breaking in for the vehicle to smoke a lot under load, IE engine breaking and or going up a hill. It's blueish whitish smoke. I know normally blue smoke means its the turbo seals and or rings......I am assuming it is blow by because the rings are being broken in. any input on this would be appreciated. Also i have a small leak coming from what i presume is the turbo return line which should be an easy fix. my question is on the oil dipstick is there a seal that goes on the actual tube of some sort??? mine does not have one and i think the leak might be coming from where the tube meets the block.

Sorry for the long post, all help is appreciated.