3rd time is the charm... MA71's 87T hardtop restomod

[ma71supraturbo]

This won't be a crazy build, ultimately I'm looking for a nice reliable driver that puts out 400-450rwhp on 91octane and handles well enough for me to challenge the fastest street-driven cars on lapping days.

Tomorrow the work begins in earnest, but I figure I'll post my plans now. When rebuilding the Silver Mk3, I wasn't particularly focused and wound up springing for expensive little bits and pieces that I didn't need -- possibly at the expense of items that would have been better put to use. So this time around, I'm approaching it with a game plan & spreadsheet...


The car (I haven't taken any pictures yet, these are from the previous owner MkIII_Jeff)

From the CL ad:

From MkIII_Jeff's posts on SM over the last couple years:

 

[ma71supraturbo]

Parts list from Toyota (I won't be getting everything at once). Note these part numbers are from the online EPC and many have been superseded -- your dealer shouldn't have a problem though...


Getting for sure:
Part number quantity price each Total
Toyota (from Champion):
engine gasket set 04111-42020 1 379.58 379.58
FIPG 00295-00103 1 10.5 10.5
head-block dowel pins 90250-08120 2 0.89 1.78
dipstick tube o-ring 96721-19010 1 1.54 1.54
dipstick 15301-42010 1 12.36 12.36
timing belt 13568-49015 1 31.68 31.68
water pump 16100-49755 1 81.96 81.96
thermostat 90916-03055 1 11.5 11.5
radiator cap 16401-63010 1 10.78 10.78
fuel filter 23300-49155 1 31.23 31.23
alt belt 99365-01290 1 20.47 20.47
PS belt 90916-02202 1 11.13 11.13
AC belt 99364-00920 1 11.83 11.83
Battery tie down bracket 74404-14310 1 12.97 12.97
Battery tie down bolt 90119-06061 1 0.74 0.74
Battery tie down J-bolt 74451-14010 1 2.28 2.28
Battery tie down nut 90080-18071 1 0.87 0.87
Battery tie down undertray 74431-14060 1 40.92 40.92
pilot bearing 90363-12002-77 1 4.83 4.83
throw-out bearing 90363-45012 1 25.76 25.76
flywheel bolts 90105-10042 6 0.98 5.88
pressure plate bolts 90119-08322 6 1.02 6.12
pressure plate 31210-14150 1 76.73 76.73
taillight gasket 81554-14580 2 16.4 32.8
subtotal 826.24


Would like to get, but probably will just buy non-preformed hose for a few hundred $$ instead (won't look as nice, but the oem look isn't work $1000 imo)
PCV small hoses (#1?) 12261-42010 2 3.12 6.24
PCV hose #2 12262-42010 1 11.19 11.19
PCV hose #3 12263-42010 1 27.5 27.5
PCV hose #4 12264-42010 1 13.34 13.34
ISC hose #1 17347-42010 1 15.42 15.42
ISC hose #2 17348-42010 1 21.94 21.94
Upper/inlet radiator hose 16571-42010 1 18.93 18.93
Lower/outlet radiator hose 16572-42010 1 39.86 39.86
H20 bypass #1 16261-42010 1 15.37 15.37
H20 bypass #2 16264-42010 1 15.37 15.37
H20 bypass #3 16267-42010 1 17.95 17.95
H20 bypass #4 16283-42010 1 15.26 15.26
H20 bypass #5 16282-42010 1 14.15 14.15
heater hose outlet 87245-1B260 1 25.19 25.19
heater hose inlet A 87245-1B250 1 33.69 33.69
heater hose inlet E 87245-1B220 1 17.57 17.57
turbo H20 #1 16284-42011 1 13.02 13.02
turbo H20 #2 16285-42010 1 7.14 7.14
oil cooler pipe->block hose 15777-42020 1 52.04 52.04
oil cooler pipe->filter hose 15778-42020 1 52.2 52.2
oil cooler->pipe hose 15779-42010 2 40.92 81.84
cold start injector hose 23902-42010 1 57.47 57.47
fuel inlet hose #1 90923-01337 1 211.17 211.17
J-block to FPR fuel hose 95336-08020 1 16.86 16.86
PS pressure feed hose 44410-14120 1 311.73 311.73
PS reservoir to pump hose 44348-14120 1 19.37 19.37
PS cooler to reservoir hose 44412-14220 1 16.16 16.16
subtotal 1147.97

So instead:
Driftmotion SS cold start injector hose: $27
Dirftmotion SS fuel hose #1: $??
Bulk coolant hose various sizes: $100
Bulk oil hose various sizes: $100
subtotal: est $300

If I can get away with a re-ring/hone:
Hastings chromoly rings: $120 est
Clevitte77 bearings: $60


If I have to bore:
Ross forged piston set: $625 est
Clevitte bearings: $60


Either way I need:
SIP torque plate: $300 (hope I can find one to borrow/rent instead)
Machining with valvejob: $500est
Greddy 1.5mm HG: $200
ARP head studs: $120
ARP main studs: $140
ARP rod bolts: $60
Clean/flow stock 440's: $65
toga oil pump: $280

Later on down the road (after break-in)
PS rack 44250-14110 1 237.18 237.18
dirftmotion SS PS hose: $75
RK full poly bushings: $700
coilovers: $1500
Fluidyne: $500
New upper/lower rad hoses (current ones will be ok till then): $50
oil cooler: $250
IC: $400
IC piping/ubends: $200
Exhaust piping/ubends/flanges/flex section: $500
standalone/sensors: $1500
600+cc injectors: $600
walbro: $100
bolt-on turbo: $1300
SS brake lines: $130
track pads: $200
cyro'd & slotted rotors: $550
MDC harness bar: ??? (need to convince him to make me another one)
MKIVTT rear wheels on 4 corners: $300
275/40 Kumho Escta MXs: $600
center console & misc interior pieces: $200
Gauges: boost, AFR, oil temp: $450
gauge pod: $75
AC repair/recharge: $300
Sunroof leak repair: $100

Ceramic coating downpipe, exhaust manifold, turbine housing, piston tops, combustion chamber, exhaust ports: $500 est

shipping, fluids, filters, misc: $1000



way way way down the list:
repaint: $1000 + assloads of time
carpet: $500
Corbeau forza seats: $750

 

[shaeff]

That's an extensive list you've got going on! I'm happy that you're back in the game!

 

[ma71supraturbo]

after talking a bit with my buddy we're going to cheat and throw a felpro HG kit on my spare 7m and install it in the meantime. This shouldn't take more than an afternoon, so hopefully I'll be able to make the thunderhill track day on the 11th...

I'll then go with an overbore/forged pistons on the original engine (which due to its poor compression/leakdown probably wouldn't be a good candidate for re-ringing anyway). This will allow me to take my time building that engine up over winter while keeping any eye out for great deals. Plus I can take my time porting the head (unless I come across an IJ head in the classifieds).

Anyway, I'll take some pics throughout the ordeal tomorrow, and hopefully will have her fired up and driving around by the afternoon. It'll be pretty much stock except I am ordering a CT26 flange and toyota O2 flange from BIC so I can make a quick/dirty side-exit downpipe for the track day. Hopefully this will keep me from being passed by miatas (how I hate when they pass me). I'll probably need a porsche bypass valve too, and drop-in K&N with cut airbox... But I'll still stay on stock boost with the hot temps, 91 octane, 118K-old clutch etc

 

[shaeff]

Cool! Be sure to post pics!

 

[IJ.]

after talking a bit with my buddy we're going to cheat and throw a felpro HG kit on my spare 7m and install it in the meantime. This shouldn't take more than an afternoon, so hopefully I'll be able to make the thunderhill track day on the 11th...

I'll then go with an overbore/forged pistons on the original engine (which due to its poor compression/leakdown probably wouldn't be a good candidate for re-ringing anyway). This will allow me to take my time building that engine up over winter while keeping any eye out for great deals. Plus I can take my time porting the head (unless I come across an IJ head in the classifieds).

Anyway, I'll take some pics throughout the ordeal tomorrow, and hopefully will have her fired up and driving around by the afternoon. It'll be pretty much stock except I am ordering a CT26 flange and toyota O2 flange from BIC so I can make a quick/dirty side-exit downpipe for the track day. Hopefully this will keep me from being passed by miatas (how I hate when they pass me). I'll probably need a porsche bypass valve too, and drop-in K&N with cut airbox... But I'll still stay on stock boost with the hot temps, 91 octane, 118K-old clutch etc

Won't fit on a 7M

 

[ma71supraturbo]

in my haste to get started, I forgot the camera again... Anyway, I didn't swap engines over -- we quickly found that the stock turbo was completely shot and is the likely cause of the spyhunter smoke screen. Compression isn't great, but ~5% variation is definitely not bad (180, 182, 175, 172, 179, 182 -- high numbers indicate likely carbon buildup and/or machined head/block).

right now I'm discussing the possibility of using the new billet PTE 58/57 wheels with one of the bolt-on turbo companies. If this is going to come out within a few months, there isn't much sense in rushing it together with another ct26... And I'm probably just going to go with the original plan of rebuilding the engine with stock pistons, MHG, and ARPs (compression doesn't indicate bad rings so I'm feeling much more confident in the ability to hone/rering).

Unfortunately it looks like 550cc injectors would be at 90% duty cycle making 450rwhp. I really should go with >600cc, but that would make smogging a bitch (with 550's it would just take 30 minutes & 1 new exhaust gasket to throw in the stock ECU, lex afm, and stock exhaust). So I'll be looking into techtom and other oddball tuning options

 

[ma71supraturbo]

Update: Just bought a set of lightly used Tein RA coilovers. Same spring rates that I had on the silver car (18/10). With those and new bushings, I'll probably be happy with suspension for a while...

I also posted a question in the turbo section, but its awaiting moderator approval. Guess I should have posted in the mk3 tech, but basically gathering input on the suitability of PTE 5557 billet turbo wheels on a 7m (underrated at 530 crank hp -- have made 520whp)

550cc injectors would be good for 400rwhp, so if I don't mind being on the lower-end of my goal I think they'll be the best option. I've also heard that RC550s tend to flow 600cc, but I need to verify that...

edit: link to 5557 thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103259


editx2: Link to my WTB list: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1377692

 

[dubsupra209]

looking like its going to be a incrediable build..good luck..

 

[ma71supraturbo]

My WTB list: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1377692

Looking to buy/rent/borrow a 7m torque plate

Also interested in for NEW/unused:
Greddy or HKS MHG
ARP bolts or studs
clutch (500+ tq )
Slotted rotors
race brake pads
oil pump (Toyota or Toga only)
water pump (Toyota only)

New or Lightly used:
genuine walbro 255
550-720cc name-brand injectors (must be either extremely low mileage, or worth buying & cleaning as opposed to buying new)
suspension bushings
3-gauge pillar pod
lightweight flywheel
Wideband controller/gauge
Boost gauge
Oil pressure gauge
oil cooler kit (upgraded)
Fluidyne, PWR, or other "race" radiator
SS brake lines
SS clutch line
AFPR kit
lightweight driveshaft (7m/r154)
kaaz/cusco lsd
intercooler and/or intercooler kit (IC must be rated for 550+hp)
Greddy/HKS/tial BOV

 

[SupraMario]

MMM like the new car. Glad to have ya back. Keep us updated on your go fast build.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Go onto the gates catalog online and get the part numbers.

then go onto rockauto.com and buy the heater hoses.

 

[ma71supraturbo]

Pictures:

right rear/side (missing some trim on 1/4 window)


LR/side:


Engine bay (turbo almost out -- waiting for a buddy with tiny hands to help with the damn oil lines):


Interior (pretty decent, minor separation at the seam on driver's seat, missing passenger lock bezel, ratty steering wheel and console -- other than that pretty good though it needs a nice detail):


The dashpad seems to have been replaced -- it doesnt quite match the shade of the rest of the interior...

First time I've seen a MK3 without a completely twisted/crushed/bent pinchrail:


Zomg still has the stock undertray:




I've made no progress in the last week or two. I was interested in buying an already built car for a decent price, but it turned into a huge logistical hassle with the seller on the east coast and the car in Southern CA.

I also haven't been able to get any progress on the turbo front -- Suprasport and SP are both nearly impossible to reach it seems and haven't replied to my messages about using the new billet wheels rather than their 10-15 year old wheels. Aaron at Driftmotion might be interested, but said he's still at least a month away from finalizing any deal on bolt-on turbos. We also got into the whole conversation about how the current turbos already can outflow the stock manifold -- its funny that I have to convince them that spool is still something that can be improved, but I guess if their primary customer is only interested in dyno/highway/drag -- spool isn't a big concern?

So I picked up a used CT26 with "some shaft play" from the classifieds to hold me over. Unfortunately, "some shaft play" turned out to mean "this is a core that needs to be rebuilt." I also have a walbro and the Tein RA coilovers on the way, but still a lot that needs to be purchased.


While I had the car up on stands I noticed that the passenger front frame rail (from the engine bay) had been replaced indicating its been in a pretty decent accident before. It appears to have been a professional job and all the body panels seem to line up like stock. But since Carfax doesn't show anything, it was probably done under-the-table and that makes me nervous (and a bit annoyed at my laziness when checking the car over pre-purchase)...


So my thorough rebuild plans will be put on hold, and I'll probably just put a new Toyota HG on (and new valve stem seals etc), throw a rebuilt Ct26 on, and re-evaluate once I can drive the car hard. If its safe & plenty driveable, but not as solid as I'd hoped, I'll probably sell it at a slight loss and start looking for a new one. If its not what I'd consider safe, I'll probably part it and make some money off it -- but at the hassle of dealing with mk3 lowballers for the 4-8 weeks it'll take to have it stripped. If its good to go, I'll proceed as planned...

 

[Zumtizzle]

Looks Good Jeff.

 

[mk3design]

When clean, White is the best color on the MKIII no doubt!

Looking forward to more

 

[Zumtizzle]

Dude i just noticed you're spending 80 on a waterpump.

I'm selling one for 60 shipped!

 

[tlo86]

doublecheck whatever pump you get i got one with a huge chunk of aluminum missing from the mating surface.... its not a toy for my son when he plays with army soldiers lol

any thoughts on a big break kit vs just cryo etc?

 

[ma71supraturbo]

Dude i just noticed you're spending 80 on a waterpump.

I'm selling one for 60 shipped!

new?

any thoughts on a big break kit vs just cryo etc?

I didn't have a real need for a bbk with my last car, but it was a LOT lighter. The stock brakes have plenty of power, its just matching a pad for the temperature/abuse & giving them adequate venting. But if the rotors won't hold up to abuse with an extra 500-600lbs, then I'll have to move to a bbk.

 

[Highnitro]

will the rear mkiv tt wheels fit on the front?

 

[Zumtizzle]

new?

Yea.

New in Aisin Box.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103968

If you're ever in my neck of the woods feel free to come and pick it up or i can ship.

You'll still save a few bucks. (sorry to clutter your thread. lol)