210 - 230 F water temps:(

[AlexSmith]

Well the swap was done nicely. Now that I have the turbo engine, and an autometer gauge, I notice that the engine temps are pretty high for the car. Normal highway and regular driving is 210 and hard boosting can reach 230 degrees fahrenheit. Now that I know this is not normal for even a stock system, what suggestions can you through at me?

I am planning to do a coolant flush, as it is on pure water right now. Also maybe a new T stat. I was also told to check the compression. Anything else I should look into?

 

[chopstickz]

Better Radiator, Coolant Flush, Get a Trans Cooler while you're at it. Maybe a new water pump too.

 

[AlexSmith]

Water pump, I'll throw that on the list also.

 

[Burntz]

Water Wetter?

 

[swaq]

Water Wetter?

No.

 

[Burntz]

Worth a shot :-\

Edit: What about a lower temp thermostat?

 

[IJ.]

Lower temp T Stat will help out in as much as you'll get a little more time before the cooling system plateaus assuming EVERYTHING is in order.

 

[Burntz]

I thought a lower temp thermostat made you run a tad bit cooler?

Edit: Also, did you check your fan clutch? Spin it with decent force, if it spins freely, (anything over 2 times around), its bad.

I can spin mine as hard as i want and it stops from 1/2 a spin to a 1 1/2 spins

 

[IJ.]

Until you make power/heat then the T Stat is open and doing nothing apart from slowing down flow.

 

[slow supra]

Thermostat with a lower tempature setting is going to open earlier. That means the normal operating tempature will be lower if the rest of your cooling system is working well. It will not control maximun running tempature what so ever. The cooling system relies on good air flow throght radiator and proper coolent flow as well to transfer heat. Waterpumps 90% of the time are not the cause of overheating. They normally need replacement because of leaking or bearing shaft failure. Very rearly do they have impeller failure.

 

[AlexSmith]

Well today on the way to work, I ran the car with the AC on high and 85 degrees the entire way and the temp did not read over 195F. With everyone suggesting the radiator and coolant flow, I will go with a radiator flush (hopefully with Toyota coolant) and see how much a difference that makes. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[starscream5000]

Keep a 190 degree t-stat in it, you can rebuild you fan clutch for cheap as peice of mind, you need 1 50mL bottle of 3000wt. (I think) silicone differential gear lube for RC cars, make sure it's not the shock fluid (Mugen is a good brand to go with): http://cgi.ebay.com/Mugen-3000-Supe...ryZ34063QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Make sure you have a good fan shroud on, and if you don't have an engine undertray, I suggest you find one . Oh yea, try a 60-40 mix of water and coolant, make sure it's the red kind and NOT Dex Cool . Try to steer away from the green as it's more toxic and likes to eat AL over time.

 

[AlexSmith]

Okay I went with the Toyota radiator flush yesterday and the temps dropped slightly, 210 max is what I am getting now. Do I need a new T-stat? I have the stock one, so I guess it is malfunctioning (scratches head). Also could it be the fan clutch?

 

[starscream5000]

Hard to tell really. Check you fan clutch to see if it need a rebuild, there is a thread on how to do that on here. BTW it's 50mL all together I'll edit the post to reflect that. You can check you T-stat by placing it in a pan of hot water, heat it up with a thermo in the water, watch when it opens and note the temp it did so at. You should be able to see if it's ok that way.

 

[AlexSmith]

I keep the fan on high and 85 degrees, and the temp stabalizes between 195 and 210. Is that an indication of the T-stat or more towards the fan clutch? Again thanks for the help guys.

 

[dbsupra90]

I keep the fan on high and 85 degrees, and the temp stabalizes between 195 and 210. Is that an indication of the T-stat or more towards the fan clutch? Again thanks for the help guys.

sounds like its working fine. with the stock 195F t-stat thats where its gonna run.

 

[jdub]

I'm going to throw in my 2 cents:

A 180 deg stat will not make your coolant a lower temperature. It will open earlier and allow coolant to flow to the radiator...in this sense, it will allow the radiator to dissipate heat earlier and "get ahead" of the game. After extended ops though, the coolant temp will reach equilibrium...i.e. the temp will increase to the point where it reaches the thermal capacity of the radiator to get rid of the heat produced by the motor. Once this happens, that is what you are going to get (assuming the stat is full open)...the condition and size of the radiator has the biggest impact, followed by fan efficiency.

The TCCS will retard timing (IDL off) to prevent knocking at coolant temps over 100 deg C (210 deg C). If you are hitting temps above this, it's time to get a new radiator. Remember, the only sure way to drop coolant temps is to get a radiator with larger thermal capacity. Might as well check your fan clutch too

 

[IJ.]

Lower temp T Stat will help out in as much as you'll get a little more time before the cooling system plateaus assuming EVERYTHING is in order.

 

[jdub]

^^^ Yep...dead on. Just said it a different way

 

[IJ.]

Mine was the veggie explanation version