20w50

[supramacist]

When I get my ride back I am thinking about switching to this oil weight. It seems like the car is always running lean. This may not be something a lot of you think about. BUt I have an unidentified oil leak after I get it back. So I was just opening up for comments on this topic. I have been running 10w40. I know it seems drastic but it can't hurt to try it for a bit.

 

[SupraDerk]

Changing oil shouldn't effect whether or not your car is running lean or not. That's most likely a fuel problem in which I'd clean up my injectors and check the condition of the fuel filter. Unless you're talking about running lean on oil (ie engine running hot) in which case I would focus on solving that leak problem. Where under the car does an oil puddle form or where do you find the leaking oil on the engine?

 

[supramacist]

It's going to toyota to have the rear main and clutch replaced this thur. Maybe I'll get it back by friday, It's been broken down for too long. I don't have the tools to do this in my back yard. I had it up on Jack Stands. eh, I'm sure toyota will give me a list of things to learn how to do. I dislike somone else working under my hood. Then It's new plugs and wires. cap and rotor. She should be full proof. For 9000 miles or so. I'm leaving the stock exhaust on the car for as long as I can. You'll never have a muffler outlast the stock. Or should I say that....., I never have had.

 

[jdub]

Might want to read this before you go to 50w oil:

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

 

[NDBoost]

only cases i would ever run 50w is if i had rod knock (which i do) in this case i run SAE 50w...

 

[supramacist]

Jdub...., Thanks for that link dude. It was exactlly what I needed. I'm probably going to stick with the 10w40. I have no rod knock. Nor do I want any thanks.

 

[jdub]

Jdub...., Thanks for that link dude. It was exactlly what I needed. I'm probably going to stick with the 10w40. I have no rod knock. Nor do I want any thanks.

You're welcome :biglaugh:

Here's a little more "light reading" for ya on filters:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html#recommended

I went with a Wix...I like the bypass valve design and the anti-drain valve design works well with my remote oil filter set-up. There are several good filters...I'd stay away from the Fram like the plague though.

 

[supramacist]

I have always thought of fram as a good filter for oil and air. This last link makes it sound like if i'm going to use fram I may as well be using valvoline for oil. Not good

 

[jdub]

In the old days, Fram was a good filter...then the "corporate suits" got involved. They are using the brand name to make $$$...everything I've read about oil filters have one thing in common. The Fram is a PoS.

 

[NDBoost]

so it looks like this AC Delco is the best?

 

[supramacist]

that article would make it seem so. bummer dude.

 

[jdub]

so it looks like this AC Delco is the best?

That's the million dollar question...I've read this filter review several times and came to the conclusion that the Wix (same as NAPA Gold) or the Purolator filters are best for my application. That's because I'm using a remote filter set-up with the filter at a 45 deg angle down...the anti-drainback valve design of these is important. On start-up, my valve train noise was very noticeable...when I changed to the Wix, the noise all but went away (still need to do a valve shim job). At the stock location, the anti-drainback is not as important, so the focus shoud be on flow and filtration ability. For me, the Wix was the best overall and has a solid bypass valve construction.

Tha AC Delco UltraGuard is a Champion Labs filter...the reviewer didn't seem to be too thrilled with Champion (see the Bosch filter comments).

 

[supramacist]

I always thought fram was better than wix. But hell this say's I am wrong there as well.

 

[NDBoost]

yup ive always gotten the Fram TG, proven wrong by this.. time to start going to NAPA for filters One thing i dont see on there is the dealer brands.. Toyota etc..

 

[supramacist]

over the road I lose 2 qt's in 200 miles at 75 mph. So FFFF it.

 

[lagged]

only cases i would ever run 50w is if i had rod knock (which i do) in this case i run SAE 50w...

greatttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt. that shouldnt be a case at all, if it has a rod knock it shouldnt be running.

 

[NDBoost]

thats alot of oil...oil leak maybe?

^lagged kinda hard when its a DD and ive gotta make a trek 20miles to work. Although i have to agree if it wasnt my DD i sure as hell would park the thing on the 1st sight of rod knock.

But given i dont have that opportunity it has to run. Besides might as well get as much fun out of it until it blows. The rod knock will get worse, the more you drive it. And knowing that i will no matter what have to replace the entire motor no matter what doesnt really stop me from driving it, i stopped caring about the motor once it decided to get rod knock. I kept it nice and happy w/ lots of 10w40 oil and always did oil changes every 2500 miles. i guess it got rod knock from a previous owner or a bhg.. seeing as it had the bhg when i bought it. (bought it non running).

But given your comment yes. If you just dropped $4k on a rebuilt motor and it got rod knock you bet your ass you should park it and fix the problem. But if its the same motor from when it was manufactured and you know the head is shaved so much and pitted so horribly and the crank is more then likely already messed up. Why bother?

 

[supramacist]

Napa has always been a really good parts retailer. I think they have a distribution center in Tulsa Ok. Not that it matters. my supra is going to toyota to get the rear main seal and the clutch swapped out. This car smokes alot aswell. But, yes there is an unidentified oil leak. Alon with a bhg. I just didn't have the tools in my box to do this job. I had it up on 6 ton, 24inch jack stands. Anyway 10w40, even the cheapest piece of shit ac delco filter is better than whatever you have been using, I guess.