1st R154 clutch change

dejacky

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Jun 12, 2005
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My understanding is to fasten these rings around this circular thingy that makes it a "pull type" clutch. I think I put all three of these rings overlapping on the side of the pressure plate shown in the picture. Or do I put 1 of the 3 rings on the other side of the pressure plate? Do I have this snap ring order correct?

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Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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getting the assembly right is CRITICAL, as if you don't it will spin the snap ring, machining the lip off the hub and then you have nothing pulling on the PP...

inspect the hub for wear (post pics, I can tell you easily), and I would recomend buying a new throwout bearing, and all the washers, shims, and snap rings brand new from toyota. The assembly is VERY tight when assembled right, and makes installing the PP on the flywheel a piece of cake.
 

dejacky

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Poodles said:
getting the assembly right is CRITICAL, as if you don't it will spin the snap ring, machining the lip off the hub and then you have nothing pulling on the PP...

inspect the hub for wear (post pics, I can tell you easily), and I would recomend buying a new throwout bearing, and all the washers, shims, and snap rings brand new from toyota. The assembly is VERY tight when assembled right, and makes installing the PP on the flywheel a piece of cake.
Thanks poodles. So far, the following are new (not pictured):

pilot bearing
throw out bushing
Southbend 6 puck sprung clutch disc stage 5+
Southbend 2500lb pressure plate

If these rings you refer to as "washers & shims" are cheap, I will try my local dealership for them. cheers.
 

dejacky

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bigaaron said:
The Southbend clutches do look to have been heat treated, I have one at the shop. You can tell because the surface of the spring gets discolored from the high temperatures.
That was one thing I made Southbend confirm over the phone and email; i.e. their pressure plate springs are upgraded to handle 2500lb of force...apparently the stock pressure plate is at 1,800lb rating. So, it's a toyota oem (aisin) pressure plate with upgraded spring diaphragm as far as I understand it.

p625135_1.jpg

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p625135_3.jpg

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Fletch124

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Jul 17, 2005
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Make sure you use all new Toyota Snap rings on your clutch. Sometimes they will fall off and you will have to pull your clutch again.
 

dejacky

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bigaaron said:
The Southbend clutches do look to have been heat treated, I have one at the shop. You can tell because the surface of the spring gets discolored from the high temperatures.
Aaron, so is Southbend simply "heat treating" the Toyota OEM diaphragm spring to enable it to hold 700 extra pounds of clamping force? Or is it a completely new diaphragm spring for the pressure plate?
 

bigaaron

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It's the stock diaphragm that has been hardened by heat treating it, which increases the clamping force. Nothing wrong with that, the stock pressure plate itself is a good strong design.
 

dejacky

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snap ring pliers didn't help me since they're the kind that require the snap rings to have small holes in the end so the pliers catch inside. I'm having a hell of a time getting the snap ring on the throw out bushing. I'm afraid to hammer it on there since i don't want to damage the snap ring. What are some proven methods that work for you guys?
 

bigaaron

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Two flat head screwdrivers can get it done. What I have used before was a ring separator, like they make for piston rings. But you still need the press down to snap that ring into the groove once you get it over the edge of the throw out bearing.
 

dejacky

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A second pair of hands helped get it on, thanks also helped me with smaller snap ring installation :). Last ?, is it okay to RE-USE the R154 clutch 6 pressure plate bolts if I use the Permatex Red liquid loctite on the bolt threads?
 
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mk3forme

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I dont think red is needed is it? The red is considered permanent. Although I have never used it, I wouldnt think you would never get those bolts back off with that. And I dont think you would want struggle with those if you ever needed tranny work.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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use the screwdrivers as the TSRM says!

it's not that hard, it just seems it, keep fighting with it till it's done right (the snapring pliers you need can be found at Sears, but it's recommended NOT to use them as you're opening up the snap ring father than needed (you kind of rotate it around to get it on)

I used red, and it'd NOT permanent (you should use an impact to remove em anyways as it's a bitch to hold the crank from spinning while trying to break them free)
 

dejacky

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14ft/lb torque rating for the pressure plate bolts right? thanks guys, excellent helpful folks here :thumbup: