1jzgte idle and clutch issue

Goodbarsix

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
26
0
0
Omaha, NE
Yo,
I own a 1987 Supra with a 1jzgte and a r154 5 speed. All the basic bolt-ons: intake, y-pipe, exhaust, stage 2 clutch, FMIC, SAFC, etc...

Here are the symptoms:
-On cold start, the engine idles around 500rpm without ever going through a high-idle warm-up.
-Once warm, the car idles around 500-600rpm.
-The car feels like it is slower than usual.
-When the clutch is depressed, the idle drops 100rpm's.
-The clutch system will not bleed correctly. I have to pump the clutch to get any pressure after bleeding multiple times. (side note, what car do I get a slave cylinder from for the r-154?)

I just replaced the alternator with a 1993 sc300 unit, and the battery is a brand new optima redtop. I cleaned the idle control deal at the back of the intake manifold as well. I cannot find any vacuum leaks, but I am not ruling that out.

Any ideas are much appreciated!
Thanks
Tyler
 

Goodbarsix

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
26
0
0
Omaha, NE
I have a replacement master and slave cylinder purchased, but only the master looks like it will work. The slave cylinder looks totally different.
Any pictures?
 

OneJArpus

Supramania Contributor
Jul 1, 2005
2,798
0
0
40
Newark, New Jersey, United States
Master Cyl
www.driftmotion.com
Price $55.00
Description: Clutch master cylinder for MK3 Supra (Only fits 1986.5 to 1990 Supra). Aisin (Japanese) brand, exactly the same as from the Toyota dealer but a lot less money! We recommend changing the master and slave cylinder at the same time
Direct Link: http://store.driftmotion.com/productdetails.php?sid=145f76e602dc6d&product_id_int=365
0.jpg


Slave Cyl:
www.driftmotion.com
Price $45.00
Description:Clutch slave cylinder for R154 Supra transmission. Aisin (Japanese) brand, exactly like from the Toyota dealer but for a lot less money! We recommend changing the master and slave cylinder at the same time.
Direct Link:http://store.driftmotion.com/productdetails.php?sid=145f76e602dc6d&product_id_int=366
0.jpg
 

OneJoeZee

Retired Post Whore
Mar 30, 2005
5,721
0
0
38
aboard the Argama
jza71 said:
Your idle issue maybe that you have a warp clutch pressure plate or it is the end of your crank(crank walk).

Was just about to mention that and link to the big thread on SF in the MKIV forum about it... but SF is down so I can't.
 

Goodbarsix

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
26
0
0
Omaha, NE
TaSe said:
Master Cyl
www.driftmotion.com
Price $55.00
Description: Clutch master cylinder for MK3 Supra (Only fits 1986.5 to 1990 Supra). Aisin (Japanese) brand, exactly the same as from the Toyota dealer but a lot less money! We recommend changing the master and slave cylinder at the same time
Direct Link: http://store.driftmotion.com/productdetails.php?sid=145f76e602dc6d&product_id_int=365
0.jpg


Slave Cyl:
www.driftmotion.com
Price $45.00
Description:Clutch slave cylinder for R154 Supra transmission. Aisin (Japanese) brand, exactly like from the Toyota dealer but for a lot less money! We recommend changing the master and slave cylinder at the same time.
Direct Link:http://store.driftmotion.com/productdetails.php?sid=145f76e602dc6d&product_id_int=366
0.jpg

Very cool, thanks for the link!

I will get that new slave put on, and go from there. I cleaned out the idle control valve already so I am not leaning towards that. The crank walk thing has me nervous...looking forward to finding that thread once SF is back up and running.

Thanks guys!
 

Goodbarsix

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
26
0
0
Omaha, NE
Ill be making a clutch switch bypass this go-around :).

Ill probably just end up going 1.5jz. I just need to source a good 2j block.
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
3,171
12
38
37
ATL
goodbar, do your wallet a favor and get a 2jz-ge instead of a 2jzgte, a thicker HG will solve the compression ratio problem.
 

annoyingrob

Boosted member
Jul 5, 2006
2,304
0
0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
the only differences between the GE and GTE blocks are the lack of oil squirters on the GE block, different pistons creating a higher comp ratio (but a 2JZ-GTE HG will bring this down to almost the right comp ratio), and the oil feeds for the turbos are not tapped.

And NA-T guys run without oil squirters and make 600+hp no problem. Most aftermarket pistons don't even have cutouts for the squirters anyways, so if you go aftermarket, you would need to remove them anyways.

Block crank and rods have been proven to be the same.