1Jz with 550's and AR.70 turbo with upgraded fpr on safc 2
- Thread starter Gibbs
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- 1jz 2jz turbo fpr
Set your FP to stock to start with. Set your boost where you want it and go from there. If you're hitting fuel cut at that pressure you can turn up your FP a bit and pull a bit more fuel out. No one can tell you what settings you'll need without being in the car/at the dyno watching your wideband.
+1 to what everyone else said. get a wideband, it is by far the best money you can spend on a modified car hands down. the tuning is critical so take your time and do reasearch unless you feel like rebuilding your motor.
Can't really use them both. The SAFC gets around fuel cut by manipulating the MAP voltage going to the ECU. When you pull fuel with the SAFC, it tells the ECU the map voltage is lower than it really is and in turn the ECU pumps out less fuel (and more timing). The FCD just clamps voltage from the map at whatever you set it to (that's what the knob is for).
On that note I think the FCD is actually the safer of the two for boosting. You just can't control fuel with it.
Safc can do 18lbs NP.
On that note I think the FCD is actually the safer of the two for boosting. You just can't control fuel with it.
Safc can do 18lbs NP.
Check for continuity from the safc2 tps input, to the respective pin on the TPS itself.
BTW:
Safc is not a good tool to tune with. The ECU will over some time adjust the fuel mixture, making your SAFC tune useless. So prepare yourself to change the tune frequently.
BTW:
Safc is not a good tool to tune with. The ECU will over some time adjust the fuel mixture, making your SAFC tune useless. So prepare yourself to change the tune frequently.
From first hand experience, the ECUs on my setup have not significantly changed WOT (open loop) fuel tuning over time, which is where it matters if you don't want to blow it up. Been driving a 1JZ 350-500whp on an SAFC on different Toyota ECUs for years now. It will try to continually correct things in closed loop cruising and idle, I don't have much input on that because I have a simulated primary O2 sensor signal from my wideband to the ECU which Im sure may change things from a normal setup. But the ECU does a decent job of closed loop IMO, even though it doesn't (or cant?) pull enough fuel at idle to get above 12.X AFRs with 550cc on my 1JZ with a 2JZ MKIV ECU.
Just check your AFRs every once in awhile to make sure everything is kosher with your tune, which every owner has to do whether it's standalone or SAFC or whatever. Besides little changes I make for weather and different boost levels, I never have to retune mine.
OP, I have basically have the setup you are talking about but with a 2JZ ECU right now. I runs right at about stock FP (I think 43ish at atmosphere IIRC?). It runs rich at idle and some cruising and could be lowered, but I need the FP up top when I run high boost on the 550ccs.
Just check your AFRs every once in awhile to make sure everything is kosher with your tune, which every owner has to do whether it's standalone or SAFC or whatever. Besides little changes I make for weather and different boost levels, I never have to retune mine.
OP, I have basically have the setup you are talking about but with a 2JZ ECU right now. I runs right at about stock FP (I think 43ish at atmosphere IIRC?). It runs rich at idle and some cruising and could be lowered, but I need the FP up top when I run high boost on the 550ccs.