1jz upper oil pan removal

[nctexan]

So I am attempting to pin point a leak and I already have the front subframe of the car off, so I figure I will reseal both the lower and upper oil pans. My current issue is removing them, primarily the upper pan. I have double checked that I've removed all of the bolts and disconnected the oil pickup line from the pan. There are 6 slots in the upper pan, where I believe you are to stick an SST in (though I don't think its the same one that's portrayed in the 7M TSRM) to pull the pan off of the block.

I don't have said tool and I searched for the P/N online and no dice. Can anyone shed light on how to pull these damn things off w/o breaking crap?

It seems as though there was definitely some oil leaking from the studs that are permanently attached to the upper pan, I'm guessing there is some type of o-ring that goes between the upper/lower pan to seal the bolts off?

Lastly, the sealant that is extruded between the block and upper pan, and from between the upper and lower pan, is white-ish and seems pretty weak when I pull at it. I though that the black FIPG is what's used by the factory to seal these parts. Is is safe to say that since the material that is extruded is not black that the pans have been pulled before and sealed with an inferior product?

Thanks for any info as always!

 

[mkiiichip]

You just pry it off with a screw driver/ prybar. No special tool needed.

The FIPG that was originally used at the factory is a white-ish color, and no, it doesent work nearly as good as the black stuff they sell. The good news is, it cleans up much easier than if someone had used the black stuff.

 

[hvyman]

Make sure all the bolts are out on the inside as well. And the bolts that are on the trans.

 

[nctexan]

You just pry it off with a screw driver/ prybar. No special tool needed.

The FIPG that was originally used at the factory is a white-ish color, and no, it doesent work nearly as good as the black stuff they sell. The good news is, it cleans up much easier than if someone had used the black stuff.

Thanks Chip. I guess I was worried about marring the face of the pan or block, but since it is a sealant seal, and not a formed gasket, it shouldn't be a big deal if i scratch either face a bit using a lever of some sort to pry. Getting ready for the winter up there?

 

[nctexan]

Make sure all the bolts are out on the inside as well. And the bolts that are on the trans.

Hvyman I've double checked that I have removed all of the pan bolts to include the ones connecting the pan to the bell housing, but I will certainly triple-check before I go back to pry these f#$kers apart, thank you sir!

 

[hvyman]

I usually use a dead blow plastic hammer to take off pans. Not crazy hard but it will start to loosen up. Iirc there is also a couple spots that would be better to pry on. Wouldn't try to damage the mating surface as you want the nice flat smooth seal.

 

[nctexan]

Make sure all the bolts are out on the inside as well. And the bolts that are on the trans.

Amazing what you can do if you just slow down and read...

"The files are inside the computer!"

http://youtu.be/Ze3hthGRbRo

 

[hvyman]

I take it you missed a few bolts.

 

[NewGen]

I usually use a dead blow plastic hammer to take off pans. Not crazy hard but it will start to loosen up. Iirc there is also a couple spots that would be better to pry on. Wouldn't try to damage the mating surface as you want the nice flat smooth seal.

I use a dead blow as well. Works like a charm!

 

[nctexan]

Yeah about 6 :-/