On my first start it started up and idled ok, but now when i try to start it it will die unless i hold the throttle open.. otherwise it revs fine.. I currently have direct 12v from the battery to the ecu, injectors and fuel pump. But my alternator is not hooked up. The engine still makes a bit of a weird sound ( in my other post http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SepbTAWKDXQ ) After re-putting on the timing belt the sound is not as bad as it was in the video, but i still have the problem of the engine dying without throttle. ( there currently is no throttle cable hooked to it if that makes a difference.. :nono: )
1j Starts but wont idle without throttle+ Idle fixed now engine misfire
- Thread starter JP85MX73
- Start date
This is your throttle body area. See the big nut on the upper left of the throttle body, where it bolts to the manifold? See the little set screw just to the left of that? Turn that in until it pushes your throttle open just a bit. Should fix your problem with idling, your ISCV is likely bad.
On the back of the head there is a pipe that flows idle air. Take it off and see if there is air flowing through it.
Also there is a valve under the ISCV. It is designed to allow idle air into the intake, but not let boost pressure out of the intake. Take off the ISCV and inspect this valve for proper installation.
Does it rev normally, just wont idle right?
Also there is a valve under the ISCV. It is designed to allow idle air into the intake, but not let boost pressure out of the intake. Take off the ISCV and inspect this valve for proper installation.
Does it rev normally, just wont idle right?
My apologies for posting 'bad' advice. How is what I suggested a bad idea? Not trying to be defensive or anything, but all that serves to do is mechanically hold open the throttle via a screw, same way your foot would if you press the throttle lightly. Works fine for me, and actually smoothed out the transition between 0% throttle application and light throttle application.
I know my ISC is shot, only reason I didn't bother with replacement is that they're stupidly expensive. Try pricing one out lately?
I know my ISC is shot, only reason I didn't bother with replacement is that they're stupidly expensive. Try pricing one out lately?
The reason i said its a bad idea is because once you turn that screw, now the factory settings are tweaked in a way that can be nearly impossible to get back to stock settings. Now the next time something small changes about the motor, and you do a "jimmy hack" to solve that issue. And on and on. Now you have a motor, that basically has no idea what its doing.
Sorry if my previous post seemed like an attack, but this is one of my pet peeves.
Did you adjust the tps after moving the throttle? (There is my point again, do you want a properly adjusted TPS on an improperly adjusted throttle plate? IDK?)
Its one thing if you have to tweak the throttle stop for standalone, but for a stock ecu, let it be.
Sorry if my previous post seemed like an attack, but this is one of my pet peeves.
Did you adjust the tps after moving the throttle? (There is my point again, do you want a properly adjusted TPS on an improperly adjusted throttle plate? IDK?)
Its one thing if you have to tweak the throttle stop for standalone, but for a stock ecu, let it be.
mkiiichip;1595274 said:
Yeah it revs normally.. what do these pipes and valves look like? Im gunna take a look today and see if i can figure it out. Is that valve the black/ yellow one by the air intake? because i superglued that one back together and it seemed to work 1 way correct? but my air filter might be crimping it a little bit could that possibly be the problem?
Bigzavs;1595323 said:
.. i hope i didnt blow anything, i have direct 12v battery going to the ecu
mkiiichip;1595388 said:
Hadn't adjusted the TPS afterward, but it's been running fine like this for 9+ months now so I saw no problem with it. From what I could tell this was the screw that takes the slack out of the throttle that the cruise control would have used on mine. If you're not supposed to adjust that screw, wouldn't they have sealed it like Toyota did on the 7m? I'll be going with the Hydra Nemesis eventually anyway, so I'm not terribly concerned with it, was just curious.
JP85MX73;1595672 said:
I believe the proper gap for a 1j is .28, if it's too high it will cause it to break up under boost sometimes.
I have a similar issue, at idle .026 gap it has a quick misfire, im going to check on the coils as the plugs are new and see if i need to replace them ugh another 400 down the drain
PS i've adjusted the throttle with that little stud/nut combo as i've got cams, it wont hurt anything. It will just throw the idle out of wack when everything is fixed. Its simple to bring back to normal just back out the stud
PS i've adjusted the throttle with that little stud/nut combo as i've got cams, it wont hurt anything. It will just throw the idle out of wack when everything is fixed. Its simple to bring back to normal just back out the stud