1987 7M-GE Problems Help?

[Ryan]

Alright well I have a 1987 Toyota Supra with the factory 7M-GE motor and 52,000 miles.
Recently somethings have started to go wrong and I was wondering if anyone could help me diagnose or fix it.
I am trying to learn as much about the car as I can but im not that experienced so any help is appreciated.
ok now for the problems.

Overheating- I cant find any hoses leaking but it is shooting out the overflow and im not sure why. It only happens when I stil still or really slow. Possible thermostat problems maybe?

Shaking and crappy shifting- When I put the car in gear the stick has alot of play in it. It can move in a large circle almost like it is in neutral.

When the car is in gear and I accelerate the acceleration is almost non existent. If i put it in any gear and accelerate hard in the 2-4k RPM range the car shakes like hell and barely accelerates. Shifting gears is bad because when you shift it bogs and stutters really bad and looks like a stupid kid that doesnt know how to clutch.
Master and slave cylinders were just replaced within the last 400 miles or so.

Also there is a slight knocking in the engine but I am not sure what is.

If anyone has any suggestions or ideas please let me know.
I really need the help and im sure everyone here has alot more knowledge than I do.
I am looking forward to learning as much as I can.
Thanks alot to everyone.

-Ryan

 

[PCguylovesSupra]

I have a possible idea on the overheating. BHG.

A simple test. When overheating, crank on the heat and see if you start to cool a bit. If so, good chance the head gasket needs replacing.

Good luck on the rest of your issues.

 

[jetjock]

Hello Ryan. I'll offer my two cents and hopefully others will chime in. Lets start with the easy stuff first:

1) Slow speed/idle only overheating is usually caused by insufficient air flow through the radiator. Fan, fan clutch, slipping belt, stuff like that. Could be a bad cap or t-stat but I doubt it. Both are easy to change though. You could have a partially clogged radiator. How does it look through the filler neck? With the engine off carefully feel it for cold spots and make sure the outside is clean. Do you have the factory fan shroud still on the engine? What does the coolant look like and how old is it? The very beginnings of a blown head gasket also come to mind but we won't go there just yet.

2) The play could be something as simple as worn or missing shifter bushings. Either search for "green truck bushing" or go to the Martin Crawler website and order their parts. They are not difficult to replace and assuming that's the problem will make a world of difference.

3) The last one is tougher. For a start check codes. Does the engine light come on when this happens? What have you already ruled out? Fuel pressure? Vacuum leaks? Timing? How old are the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires? Are you a stupid kid who doesn't know how to clutch?

 

[Ryan]

Ill check out the BHG idea monday.


Lol not a stupid kid who doesn't know how to clutch.
That would be my brother lol.
Fan clutch was replaced just a while ago. Fan works well. Original shroud is there and the fan seems to pull alot of air. The coolant keeps getting low so as of 2 days ago i stopped putting in coolant and put water in it. Still about 95% is the original 50/50 coolant water mix though. It looks clean and there doesnt appear to be a clog at the top of the filler neck. All hoses seemed to have a uniform temp when I checked yesterday but I havent been able to check the radiator. I will do that ASAP.

How would I go about checking the bushings? I have a guy that I know that has worked for many big name auto companies and owns his own hot rod shop on the side but he is is acting like a D-bad recently and when I mentioned bushings he said that couldnt be it that all of that stuff was internal in the tranny. I thought he was wrong but wasent sure how to prove it.

Check engine light is on but the guy I know cleared the code a while ago and the light won't go out. He is getting on my nerves wont even humor me and check it for me so maybe ill take it to autozone or whatever and have them check the codes.

I havent been able to rule out much because im not sure what to look for.
The problem is that it only happens in gear. never in neutral or when I clutch.

Just cleaned the TB and checked the air filter and it is idling at 900-1000 RPMs.

Anything else i can check?
Any other ideas for me to diagnose or something?
Thanks alot for the help.

 

[Ryan]

Also how much are the bushings? Im having trouble finding it on the website.

What is your opinion on Nylon Bushings?
A friend of mind said something about them but didnt really seem to know much.

 

[Ryan]

???

 

[dumbo]

jetjock covered this pretty well.

Heres for your codes.http://cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23

To check your shifter bushings, basically pull your shifter out, from inside the car, if that makes sence.

The sound of a BHG seems very audible But don't jump to conclusions untill you do the appropiate tests.

The knock very well could be a lifter/excessive valve lash. Hows your oil look?

Good Luck

 

[Ryan]

Oil looks great.

I understand the idea of taking out the shifter but im unsure on how to remove the center console. Is there any pictures or anything? more detailed directions perhaps?
thanks

 

[Ryan]

bump?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Center Console removal:

1: SCREWDRIVER - Unscrew the screw at the base of the trim piece, to the rear and on the driver's side, right at the front corner of the seat. Remove the ash tray by simply pressing down on the tab inside that pops up when the tray is pulled out and pull the entire tray out. Now unscrew the 4 screws inside the ash tray area.

2: REMOVE SHIFTER - It unscrews on basic threads. Turn counterclockwise. Put aside.

3: UNSNAP TRIM PIECE - Carefully pry the piece out by starting at the shifter area at the bottom. Shouldn't be too hard, but it may take a little force. Don't pull it far out, because there are still buttons and stuff attached.

4: UNCLIP BUTTON and CIG LIGHTER - Unclip. Simple enough, but a pain because it will take a lot of pulling.

DONE

Now you will have 8 bolts/screws under the shifter boots to remove before you can pull out the shifter.

 

[Ryan]

thanks alot

 

[cuel]

block test kit from Napa will tell you if you have a blown head gasket(sounds likely).

 

[Ryan]

how expensive is that?

 

[jetjock]

$50 from Napa or around $26 from several online places. You can also go down to the pet store and buy an aquarium test kit for $5. It uses the same chemical indicator. Some auto stores wil lend you the tester free as long as you pay for the test fluid. The kit looks for the presence of carbonic acid in the coolant, the result of CO2 being introduced from combustion gases.

Check codes yet? If the MIL is on there'll be at least one stored. No need for Autozone or a scan tool since the EFI system isn't OBDII. Simply jump two terminals under the hood and count the number of flashes on the MIL. Search around for info how to do this or read the online TSRM...

 

[Ryan]

I am looking for things to do like Tune up wise.
Any suggestions?
Checking trans and diff. fluid this weekend and replacing the shifter bushings.
Anything else?
Working on a budget.
Thanks alot.

 

[jgcable]

get a leak down test done before you start dumping money into that car. A tune up will not cure a BHG. Also.. I would be more concerned about the slight knocking.
Instead of spending the money on other things.. have a leak down test performed to rule out a BHG. If your car has 52K on it and the head gasket was not replaced it is a very good possiblity that it needs to be.

 

[Ryan]

Can I use the stock car jack to lift up the axle so I can put Jack stands under it to check the diff. Fluid and tans fluid?
Is it strong enough and where is the best place to put the jack at?

 

[jgcable]

Can I use the stock car jack to lift up the axle so I can put Jack stands under it to check the diff. Fluid and tans fluid?
Is it strong enough and where is the best place to put the jack at?

You should jack the car up using the proper jacking locations.
What did you find out regarding your original problems.
Just an FYI... a knock in the motor could be a MAJOR problem.

 

[jgcable]

Are you located in Waterford, CT??? I am in Milford. If you need any help let me know.

 

[Ryan]

Wateford Michigan