12k rebuild tear down

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.
ok so i decided to go ahead and tear down the 7m. This is on a wiesco .20 piston and stock rods. Parts list as follows:


vpc, afc
550cc precision
cometic 3mm gasket
ndc bearings
all arp
koyo rad
garett intercooler
head stock
lapped block and head
mobil 1 10w-30
hks manifold
true t-70
full 3" turbo back
dyno tune 420rwhp @ 16psi

specs @ .001 rods and .0015 mains driven hard every day rods show a bit of galling will now open the clearences up a bit thoughts welcome
 

NewWestSupras

SoupLvr
Mar 1, 2006
611
0
0
White Rock
Other members will have advice with bearings, I'm sure. As far as other aspects of rebuild, I noticed a nice difference in throttle response after I got an FFIM in, maybe think about that? Also since you are ripping it down, why not do a mild p&p on the head.. it only costs some time with a die grinder. I figure wth, since its apart already. Maybe new valve springs as well (good piece of mind and cheap). Don't forget new oil squirters and an oil filter relocation kit. Sounds like a great setup, gl with the new iteration!
 
Last edited:

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.
NewWestSupras said:
Other members will have advice with bearings, I'm sure. As far as other aspects of rebuild, I noticed a nice difference in throttle response after I got an FFIM in, maybe think about that? Also since you are ripping it down, why not do a mild p&p on the head.. it only costs some time with a die grinder. I figure wth, since its apart already. Maybe new valve springs as well (good piece of mind and cheap). Don't forget new oil squirters and an oil filter relocation kit. Sounds like a great setup, gl with the new iteration!
yeah im doing all that also gonna open up the mains and rods a bit add ffim, full head job, springs dyno again then add cams to see the difference
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.

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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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I come from a land down under
2nd pic left bearing is the start of fatigue/delamination

The backs of the bearings look like the rods have a very rough surface finish in the bores so they're not getting full contact and are moving around.

Either that or the rods are undersize so again the shell doesn't make full contact due to excessive crush.
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.
i had a bit of metal contamination in the oil from a mis-hap a while back also these marks are smooth you cant feel them may be going with forged rods making that decision now. I will also be opening up the clearence a bit up from .001 to .002 and running a thicker oil
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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I come from a land down under
As we've discussed I have some very specific ideas on this subject that come from a lot of "testing to destruction" after following the conventional wisdom on 7M rebuilds and seeing multiple failures.

Maybe it's just my particular driving style and car use that's the cause but how I now build my motors has proven to give good results so I'll stick with it.
 

wiseco7mgt

dirty mechanic
Aug 12, 2007
811
0
0
queensland
best results i saw was getting a head pro to work the ports and watching and learning while they do it so you can pick up a few tips and resuse the info for other projects down the track, getting the head done in my case saw dramatic improvement in coming on boost sooner and just a great broad powerband right through the rev range.also find a reputable machinist to balance and crack test all bits that will be stressed,i had even the ring gear balanced with the crank pulley, and the first thing you notice when driving my car is how smooth and effortless it revs through to redline.
I also used the wiseco 20thou over forgies and they seem great value so far although make sure to check ring size to bore clearances before fitting them to your pistons, youll find a might find a few need fileing.
any reason for useing 3mm h/gasket?high boost intended hence the forgies?
 

DL.

Fast
Sep 12, 2005
35
0
6
SE Wisconsin
IJ. said:
As we've discussed I have some very specific ideas on this subject that come from a lot of "testing to destruction" after following the conventional wisdom on 7M rebuilds and seeing multiple failures.

Maybe it's just my particular driving style and car use that's the cause but how I now build my motors has proven to give good results so I'll stick with it.

IJ, please do share on how you "build your motors now" Unless of course that's info your not willing to give out.
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.
wiseco7mgt said:
best results i saw was getting a head pro to work the ports and watching and learning while they do it so you can pick up a few tips and resuse the info for other projects down the track, getting the head done in my case saw dramatic improvement in coming on boost sooner and just a great broad powerband right through the rev range.also find a reputable machinist to balance and crack test all bits that will be stressed,i had even the ring gear balanced with the crank pulley, and the first thing you notice when driving my car is how smooth and effortless it revs through to redline.
I also used the wiseco 20thou over forgies and they seem great value so far although make sure to check ring size to bore clearances before fitting them to your pistons, youll find a might find a few need fileing.
any reason for useing 3mm h/gasket?high boost intended hence the forgies?
3mm hg including block deck head deck and pistons used 9:1 i end up with 8:4:1 also can play around with compression
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
62
I come from a land down under
DL. said:
IJ, please do share on how you "build your motors now" Unless of course that's info your not willing to give out.
DL: LOL it's no secret and I'm happy to outline how I build but it goes against the "conventional wisdom" in many ways and while it works for me MANY will disagree! ;)