..anything obvious that could be unplugged or failed that would cause my idle to go from a near perfect idle 700rpm consistantly, to starting it today and it idle at a steady smooth 1200rpm. Runs fine, no codes but cant figure what could have happened while it was sitting that would cause it.
1200 rpm idle, is there any..
- Thread starter mikeoc1
- Start date
Idle air control valve could be stuck open. or TPS out of adjustment as hvyman stated in the above post
I found a bunch of air hoses on mine that were all taped together and cracked. It was idling at that rpm too ever since I got it. Hopefully replacing them will solve the problem.
on your AFM there is a spot you can drill out with a 5/8 drill bit. Adjust it, unscrew the screw up and your idle will drop to where you want it. Its the idle bypass screw. I had the same problem with mine.
^ I understand you're trying to help but that's a bad idea. He shouldn't do it and if you did you should use the code stamped on the housing to put it back where it was and after fix the real cause.
Because it's not an idle adjustment. On the GE that screw is used to set idle mixture (on the GTE it has a different purpose) which is why idle speed changes when it's messed with. Not only are you masking the real cause of your problem but you're throwing the EFI system out of calibration. That's why the factory goes through the trouble of precisely setting each screw and then coding it's position onto the housing.
Idle speed should never be adjusted using mixture. It's set by the amount of metered throttle body bypass air and on this engine that's done by the computer. Even if you set idle speed by mixture the computer will still try to control it. What you end up with is bad mixture and an idle control system that's out of whack.
Look for a two digit number near the screw. When decoded it indicates the distance from the housing to the top of the screw in mm. The easiest way to decode it is to give you examples: if the number is 30 the distance should be 13.0 mm. 26 would be 12.6 mm, etc. That's where it was from the factory. Depending on what's been done to the car it may not be right now but it should get you close.
Look for a two digit number near the screw. When decoded it indicates the distance from the housing to the top of the screw in mm. The easiest way to decode it is to give you examples: if the number is 30 the distance should be 13.0 mm. 26 would be 12.6 mm, etc. That's where it was from the factory. Depending on what's been done to the car it may not be right now but it should get you close.
This has been resolved, not sure what it was. Car had a low battery when it happened. After charging the bat all night it was fine. Not sure if that was related, but no problems since.bioskyline;1741017 said:
Just a query on the two digit stamp near the screw. I recently built a new N/A motor and am currently trying to sort out why the car is running so rich.
I've checked near the screw on my AFM and I have no two dogit number?
Anyone got any ideas?
I've checked near the screw on my AFM and I have no two dogit number?
Anyone got any ideas?