10-30w or 20-50w that is the ?

[SidewayzSupra]

Right now I'm running 10-30w Mobil-1full synthetic in my motor Mobil-1 in tranny and Royal Purple in my rear-end. Since it has been getting warmer I notice my valves are getting noisier and my oil pressure isn't that high. My friend runs the same oil but 20-50w and he has higher oil pressure. His motor also has 120k and mine has 8k on full rebuid. I thought it would be ok to run 10-30w but it seems like it's too thin??? Should I go to 20-50w on a newer motor. If I change back later I wont have leaks from thinner oil will I? Future thanks to any ideas. Later-T

 

[siman]

Wow, your going for rod knock, 10/30 is WAY too thin for summertime.

at the LEAST get 15w-40....I run 20w-50 YEAR ROUND. I also am about to start running some militec and Amsoil additives to condition the metel surfaces in the motor and tranny.

About leaks in the futurem, if you are running SYNTHETIC right now....its ok to go to Dyno ( non synth. ) oil....but not back and forth....as for going from dyno to synthetic, if you have an old motor/turbo with old seals, the dyno oil gunks up and seals the leaks....when you add the synthetic or change to, the synthetic has detergents to clean the gunk away....THATS when you get leaks.

I am in the same sort of boat, 9K on the rebuild...but didnt rebuild the turbo which has 60K miles on tap.....I am not afraid I will get leaks from my motor seals...but rather my TURBO seals might blow out or become leaky from running the synthetic.


but get the best of both worlds and get an additive W/O detergents.

thats just my opinion, and some facts rolled into one.

wish the best,

Jonathan Mann

 

[mkIIIman089]

I as well run 20W-50 Amsoil synthetic year round. In the winter though I allow plently of idle warm-up time before I go drive it.

 

[siman]

I as well run 20W-50 Amsoil synthetic year round. In the winter though I allow plently of idle warm-up time before I go drive it.

I let mine "warm up" as well...but its not like we are going to blow our seals at 60lbs of pressure...jeez, my brothers Z car and fathers 350z run near 90psi on the highway and about 110psi WOT....

-Jonathan

 

[mkIIIman089]

Hey, i was reading in SuperStreet last night and they have a small thing on oil in there and what weight should be used chosen by main bering tolerance. And I still think that 20W-50 is the best choice for our cars:

.0025" - .003" - 40W @ 100*C (e.g. 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40)
>.003" - 50W @ 100*C (e.g. 15W-50, 20W-50)

After checking out our tolerances in the TSRM, using 40W oil is stil on the low side of our "normal clearance" and way way below the max clearance. They are reccomending 20W50 as well... Just a little tidbit I picked up. And no, it was some oil specialist not the SS team that came up with those numbers lol. Amsoil themselves also list 20W-50 on their site for our engine.

 

[siman]

I new I was right all along :icon_surp

Our motors ARE built like old school V8's and NOT modern day import motors.....the machine shop told me that when they were sizing the beaings LOL.....

Its really never bad to run thicker oil....but going the opposite running THINNER oil is just dangerous.

thanks for that info mkIIIman089, that pretty much clarify's all questions pertaining to this subject!

-Jonathan

 

[PynkEye]

ya 20w50 is the way to go, specially during summer time, you can drop to 10w40 or 30 during winter.

I put Lucas oil treatment in my 20w50, that shit is stick is hell tho, keeps the oil everywhere on your engine when you shut it off, dosnt just drip down like normal oil. Crazy shit if you ask me lol. But once heated and used for 5k km, dunno if its still as good :S ill have to check it out.

 

[MDCmotorsports]

20w50 in summer, 10w30 in winter.

 

[billspreston01]

I've got 10w30 in mine right now cuz that's what the tsrm said. But the plan is to only put a few miles on that oil and then switch it w/the filter (since I just put the engine back together). When I switch should I go with a 20w50? livin in northeast ohio and car will only be driven spring summer and fall. It's been 90+ degrees here lately.

 

[MDCmotorsports]

Run the 20w50 in these hot temps. Trust me.

 

[Marcenator]

Howdy
Just a quick side note.
I'm going through a lot of oil and am running 10-30 right now.It's not leaking on the ground and i do get puffs of smoke under high acceleration and under hard deceleration. Will putting in 20-50 help that a bit do you think?
Thanks for any feedback.

Marc

 

[MDCmotorsports]

Might actually hurt you. Sounds like its going through your turbo seals if you are turbo. If you are not turbo, its just going to raise oil pressure and make it smoke that much more.

 

[Marcenator]

Yes it is turbo.
Just got the car in feb so i havent had a real good look at everything yet.
I did have the turbo off recently and it looked ok with no real oil leaking from
it so i'm thinking either valve seals or rings. No idea what the milage is on the engine as it was a swap from original.

 

[supraturbo1987]

Run the 20w50, hands down. In my 1jz, I have a turbo seal that is going, and the 10w30 just blew right by it and made blue smoke...switched to the 20w50...no smoke at all and I NEVER burn it...I am always full. I know the seal is going to eventually shell out, but the thicker oil will pro-long it's life

Trev

 

[SidewayzSupra]

Thanks for all the help I guess I'll be running down to the store for some 20-50w. I just wasn't sure if it was too thick. Thanks again everyone.Later-T

 

[Squid699]

Run the 20w50 in these hot temps. Trust me.

:werd:

can't go wrong with what toyota specs for oil viscocity (check your owners manual :biglaugh: )

 

[mrnickleye]

Run the 20w50, hands down. In my 1jz, I have a turbo seal that is going, and the 10w30 just blew right by it and made blue smoke...switched to the 20w50...no smoke at all and I NEVER burn it...I am always full. I know the seal is going to eventually shell out, but the thicker oil will pro-long it's life

Trev

What he said !!

Multi-grade oil is measured thus: 10-30w (etc) 10=the pouring viscocity, 30=the molecular strength of the oil. 10-30w is thinner than 20-50w. It gets to the parts inside your motor quicker, thus ensuring lubrication faster. (The most wear on an engine is at start-up)

If you have smoking or leaking issues, running 20-50w will slow (and possibly eliminate) these problems.

Good idea to use Lucas or STP, or even Wal-Mart's engine oil treatment (its really STP in their bottle, also their oil is Valvoline, I read this in an industry magazine article we get at the shop). Also, Prestone coolant is inside those Wal-Mart labelled bottles.

These oil treatment products work great at helping to slow down smoking and leaking, and to leave a slippery film on the metal surfaces inside the motor. So when you crank it up after letting it sit for hours, days, etc., you won't have metal on metal contact. And you can run 20-50w without fear of slow lube at start-up.

On cars in the past (my N/A does not use any oil) I cut my consumption, both smoking and leaking, by half when switching from 10-40w to 20-50w.

 

[siman]

I am about to put Militec in my oil....its a metal conditioner...helps prevent wear and aids in lubrication though its not an oil "additive"...

Also, I will be running Amsoil 75-90 weight gear oil in my tranny as well as my rear diff and some Militec as well in both....and in the LSD, I am adding Amsoils Friction modifiers oil for the disks to lock up better. My buddy just became a Amsoil dealer and is ordering a bunch for me and my brother and him to try out....by far he loves the stuff and can tell a huge difference in his IS300's 5 speed W56 tranny ( or w54...I dont know)....LOL

I will tell you guys how much difference it makes.

-Jonathan