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I found the translated flash paper still up on an obscure site, so pm me if you guys need it. Ill see what the hosting costs are as these resources need to be up for people. Id like to merge all the swap info pdfs, images and stuff from clublexus so people can get at it easy and download so they...

Well I am going to start making some popcorn! :D

Ask for the compression test numbers, if he says no, tell him to eat poop.

Absolutely, im just saying the code does not persist after you turn off the ignition and start the engine again, like some codes. It needs its trigger conditions met, even though whats causing them at this point are very likely false. I really suspect wiring, but ill keep digging here. AEM...

VF readings originally looked fine, I will check again but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary at the diagnostic plug. The code goes away with the key off, but once you start driving again, it triggers again at its trigger point, not when you start the engine again. The stock fuel dampener...

Its not the ECU!!! Condition persists with a known confirmed good manual one, interestingly your car will still drive with a manual ecu, no TC lockup though. Spoke with Aaron again and we figure bad harness work. He has never had a car get a code 25, even when it was running lean, air leaks...

Nice dude!!!

Spoke with Aaron at DM and he thinks bad ECU, borrowing a friends manual one, I'll see how that goes. Any other ideas people? Thanks.

ok exhaust gas analyser reads idle AFRs at 15.0 and revving up to 2500 rpm in the high 13s. This was done at a stand still and not driving/under load. So a touch leaner at idle but richening as expected as boost comes on. Checked my map sensor connection, wires and line, no change. Do i by...

We will, after you visit grammar school. :D

Alright, confirmed, OX at the ecu has continuity to the OX1 pin at the diagnostic plug and gets typical voltage with fluctuation as expected. Time for an exhaust gas analyzer, could i be looking at a bad ecu maybe? The TSRM kinda points this way once you have checked all of the above. Oxygen...

Don't have a vacumn pump, ill look up what that is, would a bad stock FPR be to blame? you can hear it make noise, fuel rushing sound, sounds kinda like the heater valve. Car had some pretty bad break up issues from 2600-3000 rpm, cleaned up a decent bit when I regapped my plugs down to 0.028...

I really dont understand putting 350s in supras, it kind of defeats the purpose of even going with a jap chassis, at the very minimum go with a LS1 or up. (because the supra is toyota's corvette and all "crowd drama noise") Being from the late 80's, these engines are not rocket science and thus...

Don't everybody respond at once......crickets in here.

Good, no fraying or damage at all. How the hell do you de-pin an IAT connector housing? In other news, all my injectors have resistance at 14.1 to 14.3 ohms, i cant find the 1jz spec anywhere, but they likely are good as they are all that close to each other. I'll ohm out a 440 and see.

Alright, the fuel rail insulators are totally fine, still soft, flexible and supple, I wiped things off and put it all back together nice and tight. One fun thing that happened was one wire snapped off my rear cps plug, wires next to the housing were worn out and then the other snapped too...

Thanks for those numbers, little research dug those up for me, i remembered that since north american 2jzgte's have sidefeed rails, the injector o-rings and insulators work as well. (i remembered people put 550s in their stock rails, durrr, just need the resistor) Im hoping i can order local...

ok, so they all appear to be there, some look better then others in overall shape. I am going to replace them, going to start digging for a part number, any chance 7M ones work? Anybody know a number? Going to try and order local so i can get these here sooner, Monday is a stat day, so Hopefully...

everywhere but huh? Not really dude. Ive poured over those same tsrm's your stating and the code listings for both 7ms and 2jz's and tested voltage at the diagnostic plug, 0.2 to 1.0 volts with variation between the two (like the manual says), tried a spare coolant temp sensor as well. So if in...

Ok from the diagnostic plug i get from 0.1 to 1.0 of a volt, fluctuates normally, goes higher during revving. Coolant temp sensor has good resistance, just redid my fuel return line. I am going to check my plugs to see if i have any signs of running lean. Maybe try 4644 / BKR7E plugs at 0.028-30...