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reviving this thread as I'm now back to getting this thing going again. Starts up strong, though I think it may have a vacuum leak as initially it started and idled fine around 1,100 rpm cold, however a minute in it climbed on its own to around 1,500 rpm. -Now, cold starts and idles around...

So, here's an embarrassing yet positive turn of events: Turned down Fuel Pressure -no start I then decided to do a compression test and while removing #1 spark plug, I noticed that the #1 Plug connector to the coil pack had #5 written on it. After swapping #1 & #5 to the right coils she fired...

Had a quick peek at those grounds and they are connected but the wiring to the connectors seem like they could be stronger. Left and Right fender grounds are good. The FPR reads 40-41 PSI after I crank it, and it holds pressure overnight. And for reference the FPR is getting vacuum from under...

Update: no luck. I had the plugs out of the car overnight to dry up any residual fuel, only ran it with O2 pin plugged into the O2 sensor and the problem persists with the same symptoms. I tried without any connectors on the O2 sensor plugged in -same thing I swapped the CPS and re-timed...

Thanks for pointing this out... I'll double check the CSI switch and maybe just connect the O2 pin on the O2 sensor, and not the heater and ground to exclude the IGT and IGdA.. Not sure if its the right thing to do but this is how it was connected when the car did run.

Im a little lost, what do you mean? When I swapped the CPS I re-timed did it at TDC as per the manual, with the CPS aligned and turned to accomodate meshing with the camshaft

Wet! So this is the beginning of my situation, reiterated from my initial post: The car would start, and idle smooth but would stumble and cut off under pressure. While looking for what I expected was a vaccuum leak I did the following: 1. Installed and hardwired a new 3 plug O2 sensor. The...

I will give this a shot, thank you

Ive actually had the same thing happen before with the AFM. This time its definitely not it. I even swapped AFM\s with no resolution. thank you though!

I will triple check the hoses, maybe I'll borrow a smoke machine and check the entire system. Visually I havent seen an issue though How can I check the injectors? And yes, always had the jumpers when setting timing originally. Thank you for your response

Hi everyone, I am losing my mind trying to figure out why the car is not starting. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 1991 Turbo Auto. Recently repaired the BHG. Started fine, would hesitate and die under load. Needed some throttle to cold start. I had to really harass the car one day...

Not sure if it was intended to be removed when doing the voltmeter swap, but it was always there. I even swapped it with one from my spare cluster which yielded the same result

Hi all, I'm in the process of returning my mk3 to stock (never in a million years would I thought I'd be doing this), and in doing so I'm trying to undo the volt meter mod that was done prior to my possession. Its a 92 turbo automatic, and at some point the previous owner replaced the boost...

I forgot to mention I also have the Lexus afm housing, So I tested the leads from the ecu plug to the afm plug, and all wires have continuity except E02 - Power ground. I'd like to assumine this is the source of my issue? E01 - Power ground had continuity, but I'm not sure how these grounds work...

Hey guys, long time browser here and first time posting a thread, but I need some help with my 7m 7mgte, upgraded ct-26 replacement with *garrett internals* (local turbo shop) :dunno: Zeitronix zt-2 Wideband RC550's Aeromotive FPR HKS FCD Devilsown methanol kit (not in use atm) Re...