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Yeah, it's bolted down.............. I haven't seen that before. My Alt fuse on my S4 is a different design. After sleeping and sobering up a bit I pulled the entire fuse box apart and redid a lot of connections and got a new 100 AMP fuse and fixed the alternator power wire. Everything is...

Hahahaha.. didn't even notice that! I'm local for the next 9 hours. I leave for Kansas City tomorrow morning!

Well, I got the car towed home and the 100 amp alternator fuse is stock to the fuse box............ I ripped the fuse all to pieces and got a pair of pliers on the metal piece and it's not budging... CRAP!

I open I didn't fry it... I'm stuck on the side of the road now... Guess that light wasn't lying... I'm using my phone to post right now... Waiting for the tow truck. Anyone have the wiring diagram for the charging circuit? I want to run all new wires so this is never going to be a problem...

Driftmotion. $175.00 for everything.

To the OP: Sorry to hear about your motor... I'm deathly afraid of this as well because this is my second supra and I went through two 7M's on my first one... One was BHG then knock... the other one straight up seized.

You run a quart above full? How long have you been doing that?

I've got a 1J swap and I used to have the battery mounted in the trunk, but I moved it back to the engine bay today and hooked everything back up. Everything runs awesome just like it did before but the battery light and brake light is on. When the battery was in the trunk the battery and brake...

Yeah, those numbers seem low to me. I have full 3.5" exhaust/intake/Mines ECU and everything else is stock and I put down 301WHP and 289TQ. The Mines ECU doesn't even up the boost at all, just timing/FCD/BC/SL

I just finished doing that. No more heat! It was pushing heat through no matter what I had the climate control set to... I won't need heat for another two months or so, so i'll open up the valve once it starts getting cold!

There are two hoses going into the firewall, one on the passenger side and one on the driver side... I don't want any coolant going through my heater core because that electronic/vacuum controlled thing on the passenger side isn't hooked up and there are no wires or vacuum hoses for it. I...

Doesn't matter how good your machine shop is.... you can only "machine" it so far. I wish you the best of luck, but 400 isn't going to happen N/A on a 7m

Why do you want to try 400 whp on an N/A 7M?? You planning on just spraying the crap out of it? Because that's the only way you'll get anywhere near 400. Just save yourself a lot of hassle and go turbo or 1J.

That's my plan! I'm going for the cheapest "build" starting off so I can focus a lot of my time on perfecting the exterior and redoing the interior. Then I'll go big single with a 2J bottom end in a couple of years. For now my plan is; -These turbos -2JZ cams -Hardpipes -BOV :-)

If you're upgrading, yes, twins will always cost more. These are near factory size turbo that uses all existing 1JZ parts, making the "upgrade" cost almost nothing (for me at least). A mostly stock 1JZ is capable of putting down a lot of power when tuned right, and that's my goal. I want to be...

Well I'm hopefully getting the turbos for free, so they're not going to cost me anything extra. I think if I remember it's stock 1JZ housing with steel garret wheels and upgraded bearings or something. I'll know more later today.

So I'm hopefully picking up a set of Garret M24 turbos that are supposedly direct bolt ins for the stock 1JZ manifold. My turbos are slowly going bad (no surprise) and I honestly don't want to go single now. If I can get these turbos all I'll have to pay for is a new BOV (because I need one) and...