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So I'm doing valve lash and trying to figure out new shim thickness. Also too see if I'm doing the equation right. Some valve clearance are too tight, so even my thinnest feeler gauge .0015in (0.04mm) doesn't even go through, so I end up writing those numbers down as the measurement. I no longer...

Gotcha, still haven't touched it til this day. Aiming for labor day. Just making a list for the whole fuel system and whatever is for sale new from the gas cap all the way to the fuel pressure regulator. I've seen that fuel drain plug, I know my tank isn't full it's right at quarter tank. I may...

It works last I drove, haven't driven the Supra since 2022 due to the engine rebuild. I just like to replace things as long as I'm in there. Especially if its old and not as easy to get to.

Yeah, when night run stated eliminates banjo bolt and increase flow I had some concerns. Night run does sell the fuel level sender, but over $400.

I'm rebuilding a GE supra no power adders. Going to be working on the fuel system next. I haven't even touched the fuel system. Dont know the condition, still in the car. Looking ahead for new parts to replace and I came across nightrungarage custom fuel feed line with redium AN fittings...

yes indeed, I took a tread chaser M12 x 1.25 and its smooth going in. Also planning to get the Arizona performance flange for the oil return drain and cap it off.

Does anybody know what the oil orifice on the block connects to between oil filter housing and oil pressure sender? I have a GE supra but cracked block, so machinist sold me a GTE block. I pretty much figured out every orifice out on the GTE except for this one. I'm assuming it's for the turbo...

Long story short; rebuilding GE, machinist says blocked cracked. Machinist has GTE block in stock, he makes sure it's eligible, it is. I buy block. Fast forward, engine is almost assembled. I just want to know any suggestions to block off turbo oil drain back port? GE block doesn't have that...

Yes. My machinist has blocked off the oil squirters and every bolt will be torqued.

I'm shopping for a new MLS headgasket and my machinist has decked the block and cut the head. This is the first time the head has been cut and block has been decked. He said I don't need a thick headgasket due to compression ratio being 9.1:1. No power adders either. Also its been bored .020 so...

My cylinder is machined 0.20 out from 83mm, now according to my machinist it's now 83.5mm. Plan to get a Cometic MLS and the next size up is 84mm. He says 84mm is fine and no need for a thick gasket. So the thinnest gasket they sell in 84mm bore is .030 compressed. Is going 84mm bore gasket...

So I have a 87 Supra GE auto. My GE block is cracked. My machinist sold me a GTE block that he had in stock. My pistons are bad and he cannot find factory GE pistons around. He gave me 2 options. I could go with DnJ pistons which he doesn't like anymore due to current DnJ quality. Or I can go...

yes, noted I have asked my machinist to swap any block off plates to the gte block. I plan to use my original timing cover from the ge block.

yes that is a good tip, I'm asking my machinist to compare the blocks and have the squirters removed. Speaking of head torque I know we've spoken before and also to other users. What torque number would you start off with to get to 75ft ibs? 25-50-75?

I have a 87 Supra with a 7MGE with automatic transmission and I am rebuilding the engine. I am not adding any power, simply just a OEM plus build with MLS head gasket, ARP studs, rings, bearings ETC. I just want to drive this car daily and not race anybody; it can be done. The engine is...

Yeah I figured the factory oil line would be a good modification, as far as oil pump spring modification if it loses tension over time would it be the same as the OEM spring at that point or worse?

I do plan for the machine shop to have a crosshatch finish in the bores. Hoping that's all they need to do with the bores, I don't plan on boring out.

Does the 7M crank pulley need to be replaced at some point? Doing a complete overhaul on my 7M-GE and I came across an ATI super damper crank pulley on Driftmotion.com and it made me think. Do crank pulley's need to be replaced due to age or mileage? All I've found out there is an ATI super...

I've seen information about 7M oil pressure, about oil pressure being low at idle even when warmed up. And if you upgrade the relief valve spring in the oil pump, it will increase the oil pressure at idle and improve 7M reliability and life span. Upgrade the stock oil pump hose to a larger steel...

OK got it. I plan to use stock main cap bolts. A few users said stock main cap bolts are fine unless you add horsepower and torqing spec will change as well.