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you can't take it off with the tierod because the subframe gets in the way when you turn it.

Bump Please I really need to get this off to replace my inner tierod and bellow.

how the hell do you remove the steering damper bracket from the inner tierod? i used a monkey wrench around the bracket but i ended up loosening up the inner instead and obviously the bracket is to wide to turn it off with the inner. My repair manual doesn't say anything about it Any help is...

I just threw up in my mouth and slit my wrists after seeing that ugly ass thing! LoL

yes i have a wideband.

Getting a boost controller won't be any help. If the wastegate won't open until higher than 11 psi then it won't open lower than that.

Its still a stock CT-26. Over the winter I'll be doing suspension and brakes. Then in the spring I'll be doing LEX MAFS, bigger injectors, twin turbo fuel pump, afpr, safc and I'll be tuning for E85.

Its not because of the cold because it started doing it right when I got it all together. And I replaced the wastegate vac line with a new one already thinnking that was the problem.

I know 11.3 isn't bad when I get an SAFC I'll be tuning for 11.7. My AFRS under WOT Full Boost are fine. My cousin tunes WRX's and STi's and I help out alot so I know what good AFRs are. I'm just having trouble figuring out why its doing what its doing.

Innovates lagtime isn't that bad, there is no way that mine is lagging 2 seconds because I can feel the lack of power.

I just watch the gauge but I'll bring my laptop with me and make a log.

I forgot to mention its a Turbo car it just has a GE block because I got a good deal on the engine. And I said fuel pressure is good. So that's not the problem.

Its GTE electronics. Would someone messing with the adjusting screw in the AFM have anything to do with it? ---------- Post added at 02:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:12 AM ---------- And its not a lag in the time innovate lc1 is very fast you can tell there is a lack of power...

When I get on it in 1st through 3rd at higher rpms my boost goes up to like 11 lbs and then I hit fuel cut. I can't figure out why its doing it. I'm running wastegate pressure and I have Apexi intake, 3" turboback exhaust, and driftmotion intercooler kit. Oh and its a 7M-GET.

When I am cruising my AFRS are 14.7 when I decide to step on it when it gets around 0psi it stays at about 14.7 then after about a second or two it all of a sudden goes normal to about 11.3 at full boost. I tested the fuel pressure and its all good. AFM is good. Just installed a new TPS. I don't...

No it stays at like 14 to 1 which is lean right as boost starts building it should drop to like 12.5 :1 or somewhere around there then at wot full boost should be around 11:1 .

No at WOT the AFRS are perfect its just when its around 0- 3psi when its lean. And I have a boost leak tester so I'll have to check that out again.

I have a 7M- GET all turbo electronics. I'm running stock wastegate pressure which with my intake and 3" turbo back exhaust its boosting up to 10 psi. Now my problem is when I'm going into boost its not richening like it should be it sits at about 14 for a second and then it'll get rich and it...

Did you lap the block with the inner timing cover on? the head sits part way on that so if you didn't lap the block with that attached the head would seal perfectly.

The reason you're throwing a code 52 could be because you ran 87 octane which would cause knocking. But normally code 52 means a short in the knock sensor wiring, look into doing the knock sensor rewire. Does the engine make any abnormal sounds? Do a compression check and leakdown check that...